William Boyd, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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Author: William Boyd

William has been collecting and exploring luxury watches ever since he was 19. He discovered his passion for timepieces when he received a vintage rolex submariner as a gift from his father on his 18th birthday! And there has been no looking back ever since!
Best Places To Sell Your Watch Online

Most people get into watches with the intent to purchase only one or just a few pieces and create a small collection. However, as they get deeper into the hobby, they start lusting for more types and styles and amass extensive collections with the intent of keeping them forever.

In the end, though, we all have that one watch sitting in a drawer that we thought we would wear more. Sometimes, the best thing to do is to sell watches like these for several reasons, such as getting funds for a brand-new timepiece. 

But where should you sell your watch? How much should you expect to get for it? Is it better to sell it online or look for physical stores? 

My goal with this piece is to give you all the necessary information about why you would want to sell your watch, the benefits of opting for online vs. retail dealers, which are the best places to sell your watch online, as well as a few tips and tricks on how to make the most of it.

About Selling Watches Online

The number one question you probably have on your mind is why you would want to sell your watch in the first place. There are several reasons why someone would want to liquidate part of their watch collection.

A few of the most common ones include downsizing your collection or funding your next luxury watch purchase. Others come to the decision to sell their watch because their price has increased significantly since they bought it, or perhaps they need the money due to an emergency. 

At this point, I’d like to encourage you to only shop for watches you can truly afford and not compromise your living circumstances. All of us (or most of us anyway) started with affordable Seikos and Casios before moving on to “better” Swiss luxury watches. 

And, in my opinion, that’s the best way to appreciate the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into these marvelous pieces.

So, with that out of the way, let’s get back to selling your watch. In this day and age, my go-to places for selling any watch would be online retailers, marketplaces, and forums, as they offer some tremendous benefits.

Some of the most important ones include accessibility from anywhere in the world, as well as scoring a better price most of the time. But, with the internet being a sea of options, which are the best places to sell your watch online?

Best Place To Sell Your Watch Online

There are countless outlets you can use to sell your luxury watch online, with some being more preferable to others. Here’s a list of the top and most reputable online retailers and marketplaces you can utilize to sell any watch you want:

Exquisite Timepieces

Exquisite Timepieces

When it comes to online watch dealers, few can beat the years of experience that Exquisite Timepieces has in the watch industry. Ever since our establishment in 1999, Exquisite Timepieces has been the go-to stop for watch enthusiasts to buy their favorite watches from dozens of available brands.

Not only that, but Exquisite Timepieces also offers a watch-selling service, where we’ll buy your watch from you at a very competitive price. Plus, the process of selling your timepiece is straightforward. Just complete the online form with all the necessary info about your watch, including its model name and reference number, production year, and additional information, such as when it was last serviced. 

Then, one of our experts will evaluate your watch and provide a quote. If you agree, Exquisite Timepieces will arrange all the shipping details so that you can ship your watch to us. Just make sure to follow the shipping instructions so the watch doesn’t get damaged accidentally during shipping.

Finally, once the watch is inspected and looks as promised, Exquisite Timepieces will process your payment and complete the transaction!

Chrono24

Chrono24

If you don’t want to work with an online retailer and prefer to sell your watch to another person directly, your best bet is to list it on Chrono24. Chrono24 is arguably the number one online watch marketplace and provides watch enthusiasts with a safe and reliable way to sell their watches.

Chrono24 has been a leading watch marketplace for 18 years and currently features over 500,000 watch listings, which is a staggering number. Plus, the website enjoys approximately 300,000 daily visits from watch buyers, which means your watch listing will definitely attract attention.

Speaking of listing, you’ll need to create it yourself by filling in the special Chrono24 form with all the necessary information about your watch. Then, you’ll need to upload a few high-quality images of the timepiece, and you’re ready to go. Once your watch is sold, Chrono24 will charge you a 6.5% commission based on the final price.

WatchBox

WatchBox

WatchBox is an online watch dealer that also has several physical locations across the world. The platform specializes in high-end luxury watches from brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe, so it’s one of the best options if you’re looking to sell your luxury watch online.

WatchBox has a very simple and easy process to complete the sale of your watch. The first thing you need to do is fill in their online form, providing as much information and photos as possible about your watch, as this will allow them to make a better evaluation.

If you’re happy with your quote, WatchBox will arrange for free, insured delivery, or you may choose to do the collection face-to-face. After the watch is thoroughly examined by the WatchBox team of experts, if everything is as described, you’ll receive the full payment via wire transfer or check.

eBay

Ebay

eBay is one of the largest online marketplaces in the world, where people sell anything you can imagine, including their precious timepieces. Whenever I want to check the price on a rare or vintage timepiece, eBay is usually one of the first places I’ll look at.

In my experience, putting your watch up for sale on eBay is much more straightforward compared to other watch marketplaces. That’s because you only need to fill in some basic details and use the same form as any other goods.

However, as always, the more info and photos you provide, the better your chances of selling your watch. Keep in mind that eBay used to be a paradise for scammers. I can’t even recall how many times I’ve seen people buying something from the platform and receiving an empty box.

While things are a lot better nowadays, you should always double-check if the person you’re selling the watch to is legit. And, don’t forget about your own ratings as well, as they’re an essential part of drawing more people to your listing.

WatchUSeek

Watchuseek

WatchUSeek is arguably the most well-known watch forum, with over 500,000 members and 20,000,000 watch-related posts. As you can imagine, with tons of people visiting the website every day, WatchUSeek has a huge marketplace for trading, buying, and selling your watches.

Creating a listing on WatchUSeek is just like writing a simple forum post. However, you should always be aware of the different rules and formats each subforum has. If you don’t follow the exact format or don’t provide enough information, few people will click on your post, and it may even get deleted.

Since WatchUSeek is essentially a person-to-person marketplace, the platform’s selling corner has a few ground rules to avoid bots and scammers. If you want to sell your watch on the forum, you’ll need an active account for over 90 days and 100 posts, which can be replies or your own new posts.

Facebook Marketplace

When it comes to online marketplaces, few can beat the accessibility and variety of Facebook Marketplace. After all, most people nowadays have a Facebook account and utilize the platform to sell basically anything, including watches.

If you start browsing the Facebook Marketplace, you’ll find tons of users selling all types of watches, from new and popular models to older, vintage timepieces. All it takes to create a listing on the platform is a Facebook account. Then, you’ll need to provide some information about the watch, as well as a couple of pictures.

When someone’s interested in your watch listing, they’ll contact you directly, so you can provide any additional information. There might also be some price haggling, although it’s up to you if you want to be flexible or firm about your listing price. As always, try your best to avoid scams, and look for a face-to-face collection, so the buyer can inspect the watch in person.

Crown & Caliber 

Crown and Caliber

Crown & Caliber is another great online watch dealer where you can find tons of luxury watches in excellent condition for competitive prices. Plus, their service team always ensures each watch functions properly and looks good. The platform will also buy your watch outright or trade it for another one.

Crown & Caliber will offer you a free quote so you can get an idea of how much your watch is worth. All you have to do is provide some basic details about it, such as the brand and model number. If it’s a popular watch model with tons of market data behind it, Crown & Caliber may be able to offer you an instant quote.

Alternatively, a full evaluation may take up to five business days. If you agree to the offered quote, Crown & Caliber will provide a prepaid shipping label with FedEx, so you can send your watch in for the final check. If all goes well, you’ll receive your payment in store credit or a check.

Reddit (r/WatchExchange)

Reddit (r/WatchExchange)

Reddit is an online discussion platform where people can talk about anything imaginable. Among the sea of different subreddits, countless ones discuss and partake in watch sales; however, the most popular one is r/WatchExchange.

This subreddit currently features almost 300,000 members and is in the top 1% of the entire website. Naturally, with so many members, the platform is heavily moderated and has a specific form and rules you need to follow. On the bright side, anything you put up for sale will probably be sold very quickly.

Make sure to read carefully through the rules of posting a new watch listing, provide as much information as you can, and include a picture with your username, watch, and date for verification purposes.

Quick Tip: Ask for a fair price; otherwise, your post may get heavily downvoted and not seen by many users as a result.

Facebook Groups

Compared to the Marketplace, Facebook groups operate more like a dedicated forum rather than an online watch marketplace. However, since they are very easy to create, you can find groups for all niches. For example, there are dedicated forums about affordable watches, vintage watches, and even brand-specific ones.

Each Facebook group will come with its own rules for being accepted and posting, so you should familiarize yourself with them. Once you’re in, you’ll find tons of watch enthusiasts with similar interests to you, with who you can engage in conversations as well as watch transactions.

Sometimes, Facebook groups are the best place to find rare timepieces, as it’s more likely for a watch enthusiast to want to sell them to someone from their group rather than a stranger. Plus, if you want to sell your watch, you’ll find many potential buyers that you may be familiar with already.

Bob’s Watches

Bob’s Watches

Bob’s Watches is a safe and trustworthy online watch dealer that’s been around for a very long time and has built a reputation as the go-to option for selling your Rolex watch. Apart from Rolex, you can also sell other reputable watch brands, like Omega, Tudor, and Cartier, and the selling process is very simple and quick.

Bob’s Watches offers a free quote, which you can get by calling them or filling in their online form with information and pictures of your watch. Plus, they have a catalog of current buy prices for some of the most reputable models, so you can get an idea about how much your watch is worth.

If you’re happy with the quote number, Bob’s Watches will provide you with a free shipping label, so you can send in your watch for the final appraisal. If everything goes according to plan, you’ll quickly receive your payment via transfer, check, or even in cash.

Rolex Forums

Rolex Forums

Rolex Forums is one of the oldest online watch forums and has been in operation since 2004. As the name suggests, the forum acts as a platform for discussing primarily Rolex watches. Additionally, you can buy and sell Rolex watches, as well as other high-end brands, to forum members.

While the platform specializes in Rolex, people also buy and sell Tudor watches very frequently, and there’s a dedicated subforum for selling non-Rolex watches. Make sure to read through all the relevant rules and terms of the forum and be as thorough as possible when describing your watch.

One of the newest rules is that you need a membership to post a specific number of listings. This helps avoid any scammers, and the membership fee is not exorbitant, especially if you’re going to sell multiple watches on the forum.

WatchPayer

Watchpayer

WatchPayer advertises itself as the most secure platform to sell your watch online. The platform will buy almost any watch from you at very competitive prices, and the process of getting a quote and selling your watch is easy and engaging.

You start by providing some basic information about your watch, including the model number, condition, and availability of boxes and papers. Then you’ll get a free quote in your email. 

If you accept it, WatchPayer will actually pay you the money upfront using a third-party payment service. This way, you can be certain you’ll receive your money before sending in the watch.

WatchPayer will also provide you with a free shipping label to send your watch, and once it arrives, they’ll inspect it thoroughly. If the watch is as described, your full payment will be released and arrive in your account quickly and safely. If not, you’ll receive a corrected price based on the condition of the watch.

Tips & Tricks For Selling Your Watch Online

Selling your watch online can be tricky, which may be off-putting for several watch enthusiasts. But don’t worry. I’ve got some tips and tricks that will help you get started on your watch-selling journey, as well as save you a lot of time and, potentially, money.

Know Your Watch

For me, this is the number one tip I give to anyone looking to sell their watch. You won’t believe how many times I’ve been searching for a watch on an online marketplace, only to find short listings that contain little to no information about the watch or ask for an exorbitant amount of money.

Always do your research on the watch you’re selling, and get the key specs and information down correctly. Also, have a thorough look through the market to see how much others are selling the watch for.

I know you want to get as much money for your watch as possible, but you always need to be realistic about how much you’re asking for. A good listing with a competitive price will probably ensure your watch is sold within a few days (or even hours).

Provide All The Necessary Info

To expand upon the previous tip, you need to be as detailed as possible when constructing your listing, as it will save you time from having to answer basic questions. List all the relevant specifications for the watch. Describe its condition meticulously, and don’t try to hide any imperfections or faults; you’ll only end up ruining your seller’s reputation in the long run.

Another huge point is box, papers, and accessories. Ideally, you’ll want to have saved everything related to the watch, including its original box, paperwork, tags, spare straps or bracelet links, and any other potential accessories.

Don’t forget to mention them on your listing, as they will significantly increase the price you can ask for your watch. Also, if your watch is not on the factory bracelet or strap, make sure to state it clearly in your listing to avoid any misunderstandings.

Good Photos Can Make or Break a Listing

This is arguably the most important factor to consider if you want to sell your watch online. Since the potential buyer will likely not be able to inspect the watch before purchasing it, they will heavily rely on the photos you’ve included.

That’s why it’s crucial to take good photos of all angles of the watch and highlight any imperfections so the buyer acknowledges them. Nowadays, you don’t even need professional equipment to take good pictures, as your smartphone can usually take excellent photos. 

If you don’t have access to a modern smartphone with a good camera, just ask a friend to help you out. Whatever you do, always choose a well-lit environment, as it will help highlight all aspects of the watch and make the photos more appealing.

Conclusion

All in all, the availability of online watch dealers and marketplaces has made selling your watch online a breeze and far more accessible and profitable than going to a physical store.

If you’re looking to enjoy the hobby of watch collecting, you’ll inevitably have to sell one or a few of your watches at some point; new luxury timepieces come out almost daily, and you may want to downsize your collection to a more manageable number of pieces.

Just make sure to do proper research on the watch you want to sell, provide all the necessary information, and use good-quality photos for your listing.

Plus, putting your watch for sale on a safe and reputable online platform will ensure a smooth selling process without issues. If you want to sell your watch online through Exquisite Timepieces (that’s us!), click here to get started, and receive a free quote for your watch today!

Best Breitling Watches

The 1880s were miraculous and saw profound industrial revolutions. From Thomas Edison’s incandescent lamp that paved the way for the universal use of electric light to Carl Benz’s gas-powered automobile, the 19th century gave us such disparate contributions we’ll forever be grateful for. 

The watch industry was not left out, and with the industrial revolution progressing at a tremendous speed, precise timing devices were urgently needed. Léon Breitling, who was just 24 years old, joined the chariot in 1884 and began sowing seeds that would blossom into one of the world’s leading manufacturers of luxury watches.

Breitling grew to become one the most important manufacturers of high-end timepieces with fans among astronauts and World War II heroes. For over 100 years, the Swiss watchmaker has built a peerless reputation for precision watches loved by pilots, submariners, explorers, and other adventurers.

From Breitling’s unmistakable Navitimer to the rugged and robust Avenger, follow us on an adventure as we reveal the best Breitling watches across all categories.

The History Of Breitling Watches

The story of Breitling starts in the year 1884 in St. Imier, Switzerland, when Léon Breitling founded his namesake brand. The young watchmaker initially focused on creating precision pocket watches and chronographs with superior accuracy that could be used across different sectors.

In the early 20th century, as aviation began to take off, Breitling shifted its focus towards creating timepieces for pilots and aviation professionals. Léon died in 1914, and the business passed on to Gaston. 

In 1915, the company introduced the first wrist chronograph with a separate pusher to control the start, stop, and reset functions. This innovation made it easier for pilots to measure elapsed time during flight.

Unfortunately, Gaston also died at a very young age, and Willy Breitling picked up from where he left off in 1935. As an innovator who was obsessed with aviation, Willy Breitling began developing wristwatches for pilots that were highly accurate and functional.

During World War II, Breitling supplied precision chronographs to military forces. In 1942, the company introduced the Chronomat, a wristwatch with a circular slide rule. The slide rule allowed pilots to perform various calculations necessary for navigation, such as fuel consumption, airspeed, and climb rates. 

The Chronomat became a popular model and solidified Breitling’s association with aviation, giving the brand international recognition.

In 1952, Breitling entered into a partnership with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the world’s largest association of pilots, and became the official supplier of AOPA watches. The Navitimer model was developed in association with AOPA, whose winged logo features on the dial. 

Due to financial challenges in the 1970s, the ownership of the brand changed hands several times over the next few decades. However, the brand continued to innovate and produce high-quality timepieces, including introducing quartz watches in the 1970s and the Emergency model in the 1990s, which featured a built-in distress beacon for pilots and adventurers.

In 2017, Swiss private equity firm CVC Capital Partners acquired a majority stake in Breitling, with Georges Kern taking on the role of CEO. Today, Breitling remains a prominent brand in the luxury watch industry, renowned for its precision timekeeping, aviation heritage, and commitment to craftsmanship. The company’s timepieces continue to be highly sought after by watch enthusiasts and professionals alike.

What’s The Status Of Breitling Today?

As one of the leading luxury watch manufacturers in the world, Breitling watches are typically priced higher compared to more mainstream watch brands. They are highly sought after for their technical proficiency and aesthetically pleasing allure, which reflects the brand’s reputation, craftsmanship, and high quality. 

All Breitling’s watches undergo rigorous testing and certification processes to ensure their performance and reliability. Timepieces from the Swiss brand have graced the wrists of some of the biggest stars on Earth, including Brad Pitt, Charlize Theron, John Travolta, and David Beckham.

The prices of Breitling watches can vary significantly depending on the specific model, materials used, complications, and other factors. Entry-level models from Breitling typically start in the range of a few thousand dollars, while more complex or limited-edition timepieces can easily reach tens of thousands of dollars or even higher. 

Additionally, certain collections or special editions may command even higher prices due to their exclusivity and desirability among collectors. In no particular order, here are the 15 best Breitling watches across all categories.

The Best Breitling Watches

1. Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

With a historically important watchmaking history, the Navitimer (short for navigation timer) is a watch that has been making waves in the watchmaking world since it was designed by Willy Breitling in 1952. 

Apart from being one of Breitling’s most recognizable and enduring inventions, the de facto pilot’s watch is one of the greatest watches of all time. 

The hallmark feature of the Navitimer is its circular slide rule bezel, which enables pilots to perform various calculations and conversions required for flight navigation, including airspeed, fuel consumption, rate of climb or descent, and time/distance calculations. 

This unique feature has made the Navitimer a favorite among aviators and has contributed to its reputation as the “ultimate pilot’s watch.”

The Ref. AB0138211B1A1 is presented in a stainless steel case that is 43mm in diameter with a 22mm lug width and thickness of 13.60mm. The chronograph watch with three subdials to register elapsed is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. 

The face of the watch stands out with a striking black dial with punchy white sub-dials, and the crispness of the details on the dial is just overwhelming.

The watch is powered by the robust in-house manufactured B01 movement with an impressive power reserve of 70 hours and a Kif shock absorber.

2. Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (ref. AB0134101C1A1)

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 (ref. AB0134101C1A1)

Born in 1984, at a time when Switzerland was suffering from the worst economic crisis in its history, known as the “quartz crisis”, the Chronomat represents Breitling’s passion for risk and fearless leadership,

The all-purpose watch was inspired by the Frecce Tricolori chronograph developed in 1983 for the famed Italian aerial squadron. The watch was an instant hit when it was launched, and the outstanding success of the bold invention revived production and kept the brand standing despite the upheaval in the watchmaking industry. 

The model was released to celebrate Breitling’s centenary year to symbolize a bold new era. Debuted in 2020, the Ref. AB0134101C1A1 follows the notable tradition of its predecessor, prioritizing bold engineering and elegance. 

The watch comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with a lug width of 22.0mm and a height of 15.1mm. The height might seem substantial, but that’s because the Chronomat has always been built as a rugged tool watch. Plus, the case is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), offering excellent water resistance for various activities.

The sunburst dial steals the show and, from the get-go, reveals some mega luxury credentials of this timepiece. The balanced dial has a central time display with tone-on-tone 3-6-9 sub-register layouts. 

As the name suggests, the watch is powered by the in-house Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, a COSC-certified chronometer movement with 70 hours of power reserve.

3. Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 (ref. A17375E71C1S1)

Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 (ref. A17375E71C1S1)

The ocean keeps calling, and the “Super Ocean” Automatic 42 from Breitling is just the watch for the best underwater experience. If you thought the Swiss luxury watchmaker was only popular for creating high-quality aviation watches, continue thinking!

Breitling is also famous for creating legendary watches that have proved very useful in sporting competitions on land and sea. Through the 1960s, the (then) new sport of scuba diving underwent key transitions. 

It was at this time that many inventions and advancements of key equipment were introduced to support the life-saving needs of divers underwater.

Since accurate timing was one of the most important factors for successful diving, Breitling set out to design and construct the most clear-cut dive watch possible aimed at maximum legibility, accuracy, and functionality.

The Superocean Automatic 42 is a reinterpretation of the legendary dive watch (named the “Slow-Motion”) and incorporates modern features and avant-garde technicalities.

The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters (1,000 ft) and is presented in a 42mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 12.5mm and a lug width of 22.0mm.

The brightly colored dial has broad hands and indexes, generously coated with Super-LumiNova® for easy readability underwater. It is powered by the in-house Breitling Manufacture Caliber 17 with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

4. Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 (ref. A32397101B1X1)

Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 (ref. A32397101B1X1)

Choose your adventure with the Avenger Automatic GMT 43. Look, we get it. We live in a time where many people do nothing but try to shove their opinions down our throats. There are loads and loads of standard-issue models littered all around, with a few unique watches that allow us to express our adventurous spirits. 

But all that is over as the bold, extremely robust, and shock-resistant Avenger was constructed for serious adventurers seeking the best modern tactical watch. The stainless steel case measures 43mm across with a height of 12.2mm and a lug width of 22.0mm. The case is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters and comes with a ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel. 

The special grip pattern on the crown means it can seamlessly be operated with gloves on, offering unrivaled safety and reliability to any airborne adventurer. The striking black dial is carefully designed to deliver precise and reliable timekeeping, whether underwater or up in the skies. 

The watch also features an additional red hand indicating a second-time zone. It is powered by the in-house Breitling Manufacture Caliber 32 with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Hey! The Avenger might just be your ticket to individuality!

5. Breitling Professional Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101C1E1)

Breitling Professional Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101C1E1)

The Breitling Professional Aerospace Evo combines a sophisticated design with a multitude of practical features, making it a preferred choice for aviation professionals and watch enthusiasts alike. 

The Aerospace was designed by Breitling in 1985 to deliver precise and reliable timekeeping up in the skies. The Evo Ref. E79363101C1E1 is heir to the legendary Aerospace and features the very best of Swiss craftsmanship while retaining the same powerful, dynamic, and technical style the first model had.

The watch comes in a 43mm lightweight and durable titanium case, making it comfortable to wear for extended periods. The case is 10.8mm thick and has a lug width of 22.0mm. The dial has that cool “no-frills and no-messing-around vibe” that can only be found in superb and equally adventurous timepieces. 

The thermocompensated quartz movement has outstanding functions such as a 12/24 hour LCD digital display, display backlighting, 1/100th of a second chronograph, countdown timer, second timezone, alarm, audible time signal, and a calendar function. 

6. Breitling Top Time B01 Shelby Cobra (ref. AB01763A1C1X1)

Breitling Top Time B01 Shelby Cobra (ref. AB01763A1C1X1)

Inspired by American muscle cars, the Top Time B01 Shelby Cobra is a refreshing take on the toolish watches we have to see all our lives. 

Just because a watch is built to be durable and robust doesn’t mean it has to look like a tank, right? This is why the Shelby Cobra is just a lovey-dovey designed for a free generation seeking to break the limits and dare for more.

Willy Breitling was a legend who was experimental and yet loved fun, freedom, and energy. Living life at full speed was the motto for everyone alive during the 1960s, and it was then that Willy designed the “Top Time” watch. It was an unconventional chronograph to capture the verve of that era. 

The Cobra was introduced in 1962 with a bold graphic design that was all about action. It quickly became a fast and furious fashionable favorite (try saying fast and furious fashionable favorite quickly 10 times) among motor enthusiasts on the racing circuit.

The B01 Shelby Cobra Ref. AB01763A1C1X1 continues the spirited tradition of the original Cobra and is presented in a 41mm stainless steel case with a blue dial inspired by the dashboard of the Shelby Cobra (the Shelby Cobra is a legendary sports car).

The dial features a speed-measuring tachymeter scale and contrasting “squircle” subdials that give the feel of vintage dashboard gauges. The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, the Breitling Caliber 01, with approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

7. Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute (ref. PB02301A1B1A1)

Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute (ref. PB02301A1B1A1)

The Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Ref. PB02301A1B1A1 is part of the iconic Navitimer collection, which has a rich heritage and is known for its aviation-inspired design.

24th May 1962 was the day Astronaut Scott Carpenter orbited the Earth thrice during the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission. He accomplished this feat with a Navitimer Cosmonaute strapped around his wrist, making the timepiece the first Swiss wrist-worn chronograph in space.

Breitling had already established itself as the number one pilot’s watch brand in the 1960s, and the watch was constructed and designed at Carpenter’s request. In addition to other features on the aviator’s watch from the brand, the Cosmonaute came with a 24-hour dial to distinguish day from night in the stark darkness of space.

The Cosmonaute Ref. PB02301A1B1A1 pays tribute to Breitling’s historical association with space exploration, and the design retains the classic Navitimer layout. The watch is presented in a 41mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 13mm and a lug width of 22mm. 

The dial is pretty busy, but somehow, the elements synergize flawlessly to create an appealing whole. The bezel is crafted from platinum, and when you add that to an open sapphire crystal case back, you have a wonderfully exclusive model.

Visible through the transparent case back is the Breitling Caliber B02 with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

8. Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 (ref. A32398101A1A1)

Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 (ref. A32398101A1A1)

Did you know that over 25% of U.S. international travelers consider themselves to be “sophisticated explorers?” Traveling has always been an exclusive and unique experience, and millions of people around the world state that their primary travel motivation to travel is the desire to explore new horizons.

As a tribute to this eye-opening experience that allows us to discover new cultures and territories, Breitling launched the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40. The model is unique because it features a 24-hour scale that allows the user to track a second timezone and know at a glance whether it’s day or night. 

This is especially useful for frequent travelers or individuals who frequently communicate with people in different time zones. The Chronomat collection is known for its sporty, versatile, and easy-going aesthetics and the Ref. A32398101A1A1 is no exception.

The 40 × 11.7mm stainless steel case features a fluted-dome (onion-shaped) crown that allows for easy adjustments. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance rating, the all-purpose sports watch is built to be a fitting companion across air, land, and sea. 

The GMT function is indicated by an additional vivid red hand with an arrow tip pointing to a separate 24-hour scale on the dial. Powering the watch is the Breitling Caliber 32 with 42 hours of power reserve.

9. Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 (ref. AB2010121B1A1)

Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 (ref. AB2010121B1A1)

The Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 Ref. AB2010121B1A1 was designed to take you right from the office straight to the ocean. Whether you’re a scuba diver eager for a watch to accompany you in your underwater explorations or you are a daring novice about to plunge into the wide sea for the first time, the Ref. AB2010121B1A1 was made for you. 

Inspired by the original Superocean from the 1950s, the Superocean Heritage flawlessly blends the same design codes from decades ago with contemporary aesthetics and avant-garde technicalities. The watch is presented in a 42mm by 14.3mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown and a solid case back featuring an engraved vintage Breitling logo.

The case offers durability and a classic aesthetic and is also water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), highlighting its diving capabilities. The dial is crisp, legible, and neat, with elegant triangular-shaped hands and luminous hour markers. 

The unidirectional bezel features a polished ceramic ring, commonly used in dive watches for its scratch-resistant properties. The watch is offered with a matching mesh bracelet and is powered by a COSC-certified chronometer based on the Tudor Caliber MT5612, the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B20. 

10. Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic Day & Date 41 (ref. A45330101B1X1)

Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic Day & Date 41 (ref. A45330101B1X1)

The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic Day & Date 41 belongs to the Aviator 8 collection, which draws inspiration from Breitling’s rich aviation heritage. 

The watch is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 41mm across with a height of 11.1mm with a solid screwed back. The fitting size offers a sleek balance between wearability and presence on the wrist.

One of the notable features of this model is its day and date function. The day of the week is neatly presented at the 12 o’clock position on the dial, while an aperture displaying the date is ideally placed at 6 o’clock. 

This complication adds practicality and convenience to the watch, allowing the wearer to easily keep track of the day and date without needing to refer to a separate calendar.

Typical of Breitling, the dial of the Aviator 8 Automatic Day and Date 41 is extremely well-designed, featuring a clean and legible layout. The hour markers and hands are luminous, providing excellent visibility in low-light conditions, which is important for aviators and individuals who appreciate a sporty, functional watch. 

Plus, the black dial is revealed through a double anti-reflective sapphire glass. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, thus suitable for swimming and snorkeling. 

The watch is powered by the Breitling Caliber 45, with over 40 hours of power reserve, and comes mounted on a black calfskin leather strap with stainless steel buckle.

11. Breitling Navitimer Automatic 38 (ref. A17325241B1P1)

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 38 (ref. A17325241B1P1)

The 38mm case diameter of the Navitimer Automatic makes it a relatively smaller and more versatile option compared to some of the larger models in the Navitimer collection. 

Like its style-driven 1960s predecessor, the Automatic is highly functional and retains the iconic design elements that made the Navitimer line famous. This includes the circular slide rule bezel, which is a hallmark of the collection and was originally designed for aviation calculations, bold baton indexes, and a notched bezel for easy grip. 

With a height of just 9.9mm, this watch can slip easily under a cuff and wouldn’t look out of place when worn with a smart shirt and suit for a business meeting. 

Featuring a robust 25-jewel self-winding mechanical movement, neatly packaged inside a stainless steel case, the Ref. A17325241B1P1 also comes with the most scratch-resistant watch glass on the market; a sapphire crystal. 

This will ensure the watch overcomes wear, tear and the general ravages of time. The anti-reflective coating on both sides enhances legibility, so you can be sure you won’t have any problems reading the time when the sun’s beating overhead. 

The case features a beaded bezel, too, making it ideal for fashion-conscious lovers of fine jewelry seeking an exquisite combination of form and function. The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap and is only water resistant to a depth of 30 meters (100ft).

12. Breitling Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf (ref. A17319101I1X1)

Breitling Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf (ref. A17319101I1X1)

The Breitling Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf is a robust and reliable diving watch that combines a sporty design with high-performance features. It is built to withstand challenging underwater conditions while providing accurate timekeeping and functionality for divers and adventure seekers.

Breitling has described the Avenger as a ‘Bold, extremely robust and shock resistant’, ‘pilots’ watch that can confidently go below the ocean’s surface.  The Seawolf in the name indicates its impressive water resistance. It has a water resistance rating of up to 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet, making it suitable for professional diving and extreme underwater activities.

The 45mm stainless steel case features an imposing 18.3mm height. The case is designed to withstand extreme conditions and is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives. 

The construction and design indicate that this is not so much an aviation watch as it is a dive watch. The case even resembles the older generation Superocean Steelfish with an engraved 60-minute scale that has large stencil-like Arabic numerals at each 15-minute interval. 

The large ratcheting done on the bezel allows easy manipulation even while wearing thick gloves. The dial has a bright yellow color that is highly legible with chunky baton indexes coated with SuperLuminova.  Powering the watch is the Breitling Caliber 17, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

13. Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 (ref. A10380101C1A1)

Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 (ref. A10380101C1A1)

Finally, a function-packed wristwatch for ladies who like to live life on the edge! The Chronomat was initially developed for the Royal Air Force (RAF) during World War II and featured a slide rule bezel, which allowed pilots to perform various calculations, such as fuel consumption, airspeed, and flight time. 

The line has greatly evolved, with Breitling updating and refining the watches in its catalog to meet the demands of contemporary watch enthusiasts.

With a diameter of 36mm and a striking silver and royal blue profile, the Ref. A10380101C1A1 is a small and sleek watch suited for women’s wrists. It features a round case with a combination of polished and satin-brushed stainless steel surfaces, giving it a refined and classical look.

The watch features a unidirectional bezel and a screw-down crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. 

The hour markers and hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. The watch is mounted on Breitling’s comfortable “Rouleaux” bracelet and is fitted with a COSC-certified chronometer, the Breitling Caliber 10.

14. Breitling Professional Endurance Pro United States Naval Academy (ref. X823103C1B1S1)

Breitling Professional Endurance Pro United States Naval Academy (ref. X823103C1B1S1)

Dubbed “the ultimate athleisure watch” by Breitling, this timepiece is a thoroughly modern tactical watch for anyone interested in explorations and expeditions.

Before the quartz revolution, Breitling watches dominated the wrists of pilots, engineers, scientists, and even astronauts. The quartz crisis came and passed (and it came to pass), but Breitling survived. 

While the Breitling Professional Endurance Pro is a popular watch among athletes, there is no specific connection between the watch model and the United States Naval Academy.

The watch is constructed from a lightweight case made of Breitlight®, a robust and durable material. The case measures 44mm across with a thickness of 12.5mm and is corrosion and water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. 

The comfortable, function-packed, and reliable timepiece weighs only about 64 grams making it a great option for outdoor pursuits fans looking for everyday wear.

You’ve got a thermocompensated, highly accurate SuperQuartz™ movement that won’t need servicing or replacement for about two years. 

You’ve also got a chronograph function, solar compass, an incredibly legible dial that allows you to read the time with a glance, and a date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock.

When all’s said and done, the Endurance Pro United States Naval Academy Ref. AsX823103C1B1S1 brings on a super cool look with its blue rubber strap and tang buckle.

15. Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (ref. AB0930D31L1P1)

Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (ref. AB0930D31L1P1)

As one of the world’s oldest and most reputable watchmakers, Breitling knows a thing or two about impeccable timepieces. Presented on a gold-brown alligator strap with stainless steel folding clasp, the B09 Chronograph 40 Ref. AB0930D31L1P1 is a cult classic that belongs to the Premier collection. 

The collection was initially launched in the 1940s but disappeared from the Brand’s catalog for a while. The heritage Premier chronographs were revived recently to pay homage to three generations of inventors who changed the history of Breitling and general timekeeping – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling.

The eye-catching pistachio-green dial is encased in a highly polished 40mm stainless steel case with grooves on the side and flowing curved lugs that allow it to hug smaller wrists flawlessly.

The pale pastel green dial has a grained texture enlivened by bicompax subdials with concentric circular finishing that creates a satisfying visual appeasement that contrasts with the dial.

You’ve got elegant syringe-shaped hands with infilled SuperLuminova, a tachymeter, railway minute scale, and refined appliqué Arabic numerals.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is Breitling’s in-house caliber B09 movement. This mechanical movement is based on the brand’s renowned B01 chronograph caliber, which offers exceptional precision and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

Conclusion

Breitling is an outstanding brand that has survived lots of financial challenges and the quartz revolution that brought almost the entire watch industry to its knees. 

The brand’s pioneering role in the development of navigational tool watches earned It a place of privilege in the worlds of science, sport, and technology. 

With a global reputation for high-precision timepieces and a commitment to excellence, the unwavering innovative spirit of Its founders lives on in each timepiece from Breitling. If brand reputation and heritage are important to you, Breitling is worth considering. 

do tudor watches hold their value

My list will be endless if I begin to mention the number of items that lose their value immediately after they are bought. From a set of blinds to an expensive ride, these items are capable of diminishing in value faster than you think. It’s a normal phenomenon. Some pricey items just don’t hold as much value as when they were initially bought.

But is it the same for Tudor Watches?

As a watch enthusiast, my preference is set on high-end timepieces that scream luxury and can be potential investments. But the truth is that after a certain period, some of these wristwatches lose their money’s worth, or it might take an exceedingly long time for me to gain profits on my watches as an investor. 

In determining whether a watch would retain or lose its value, everything boils down to the rate of supply and demand of the particular watch model. Brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe would rarely lose their value because the very high market demand is at play. However, the same cannot be said for Tudor watches in all cases, as its value retention varies for different models.

About Tudor Watches

The Tudor brand is popularly known for its luxurious feel and is loved by watch enthusiasts across the world. The watches are known to feature top functionality, excellent craftsmanship, and also great quality. I would not expect anything less since Tudor was created by the best-known luxury watchmaker and father of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf.

In 1926, a Swiss watchmaker known as Veuve de Philippe Hüther came up with the name “The Tudor”. That same year, Hans Wilsdorf purchased the exclusive rights to the name, and it allowed him to develop the brand from that point. 

The first set of Tudor-signed watches was released in 1932 and was sent to the Australian market. They featured rectangular-shaped faces, and some also had the Rolex name on the dial alongside the Tudor signature. After World War II, Hans created Tudor’s manufacturing company called the “Montres TUDOR S.A.” in 1946.

Thereafter, Tudor became a sister company to Rolex and has always benefited from its relationship with Rolex. Hans decided to create a luxurious but equally affordable wristwatch for people in the military and professional divers. So, between the early 1960s to 1980s, the watchmaker sold Tudor watches to military agencies, including the French Marine Nationale and the US Navy, who began issuing Tudor watches like the Submariners to their divers. 

These timepieces include the brand’s first-ever Rolex-influenced  “Oyster collection”, which features a waterproof Oyster case. Over time, Tudor introduced other features like the “Big Crown” and “Snowflake hands” into the Submariner watch line.

Various watch enthusiasts are in awe of Tudor watches due to their quality and luxurious delivery. On top of this, the timepieces are also affordable. I mean, a Rolex can feature intricate designs and bear lots of unique characteristics, no doubt. But I know that a luxurious Rolex watch will cost me a lot of money. 

On the other hand, Tudor watches tick off the luxurious box, the quality box, and the inexpensive box also. I choose to buy a Tudor watch because I will be getting the full package and, at the same time, without breaking the bank. Watch lovers don’t call it the “Budget Rolex” for nothing.

Hence, the main reason why watch collectors would buy a Tudor timepiece is that they would be getting the same “Rolex effect” at an economical price. This, of course, has made owning an opulent watch much easier. 

If I want to purchase one, I can own a Black Bay 54 that retails around $3,850 on the market. This water-resistant and modern iteration of the Tudor Submariner boasts a quality stainless steel body, a polished satin accent, and a light feel to it, alongside many more features.

What Makes Luxury Watches Hold Their Value?

At first glance, I would think of purchasing an affluent watch that only catches my fancy. But on second thought, I cannot help but also factor in whether the timepiece can be a source of investment for me also. I mean, in the end, it will be a win-win, right?

However, when I buy wristwatches solely because I admire them, it would lessen my pain by the time I want to sell them, and I realize that they have lost their worth after using them for years. The truth is, not all watches retain their money’s worth after a long period which can be disappointing.

But some still do, and if I purchase them, I will gain either the same value or a slightly higher profit. It is a given that some watches hold their value better than others due to varying quality, prices, supply, and demand. Although no one can accurately predict the future prices of things, there are a few things to consider when buying a luxurious watch that might hold its estimated worth for years to come.

Brand Heritage

If a watch’s worth is mostly determined by how trendy it is and how it is mostly requested by consumers, then it is highly advantageous to start by purchasing fashionable and most sought-after brands. What I mean by this is buying wristwatches from brands that have consistently been preferred over time as opposed to those that are trending at the moment.

Brands like this include Rolex, which is no doubt the King of all timepieces. Rolex has existed since time immemorial and is popularly known both in and out of the watch industry, especially for its fancy timepieces. I am certain that if I approach a random person who knows nothing about watches to mention a watch brand, they will definitely mention Rolex. This shows how widely-known the brand is.

Now, the fact that Rolex has built a name for itself in the market is mainly what helps the brand to make more sales. I highly doubt that you would find a lot of Rolex models that have lost their economic worth- that’s if you would even find any. Similarly, watch brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are popularly known brands that also retain most, if not all, of their original market price. 

I know for a fact that these two brands are the go-to watch investments for most people. Other older brands created over a hundred years ago, like Jaeger-LeCoultre, OMEGA, and IWC, among many others, have all built trust with customers.

Hence, I would not think twice before buying a wristwatch that was created by these brands. In essence, a brand’s heritage determines the possibility of a watch’s value retainment. So, the longer a brand has existed, the more likelihood that the worth of its timepieces will not diminish.

Iconic Watch Designs

In my opinion, a classy watch is mostly determined by how intricate and iconic its designs are. For various watch enthusiasts, unique designs, artistry, and out-of-the-world skillfulness featured on a timepiece are among the things that determine the value of such a piece.

Personally, I like spontaneity and never-before-seen wristwatches because such pieces elude more opulence. These pieces are usually rare, which makes them worth so much more. Hence, watches that are unique in their designs and very rare are known to hold their value retention well enough.

In fact, they can even increase in value as the years pass. Examples are watches that feature dial colors not normally inculcated in the watch by the watchmaker and bear designs that are only peculiar to the timepieces. A Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon is a perfect example of a piece with an uncommon but beautiful design that will forever be valuable.

Material

Another thing to consider is the material from which a watch was made. A watch that is created from quality materials or worthy precious metals, like pure gold or platinum, will be valuable in the watch industry and also outside the industry.

I know for a fact that gold will always be worth a lot. So, if I buy a Yellow gold Rolex Daytona, I can rest assured that I will get my money’s worth once I sell it because of the gold material it is made of. 

Also, a timepiece made out of materials that are trending at the time it is about to be sold will be deemed valuable. The material will still be considered fashionable and will attract a lot of potential customers. Therefore, I can make a profit from selling such a timepiece.

Availability

When I hear the word limited edition, the watch that comes to mind is the Vacheron Constantin Chronometer Royal timepiece. This watch is notorious for being one of the least common, perhaps even the most-uncommon watch the world has ever known. Due to its rarity, such watches will never diminish in value.

The fact is that there are quite a few watches that are so rare that no one knows how many of them were produced. In this case, the Vacheron has only been seen once during an auction and is a highly limited edition. 

Another is the Cartier Crash watch, of which only four pieces in total have been manufactured. Its unique design, which features a look similar to a cloth worn by historic desert travelers, makes it stand out. Watches like these are definitely going to always increase in value and will never diminish.

Do Tudor Watches Hold Their Value?

Generally, Tudor watches are not known to have very high value retention. This is because, in the first place, they are not very pricey. However, some Tudor models have proven to be valuable even after purchase. 

An example is the Heritage Black Bay wristwatch line. This piece is one of Tudor’s most sought-after models, and it has been doing pretty great as regards value retention. The collection has seen various models over the years, which have all been recognized as highly valuable. 

Models under the Heritage Black Bay line, including the Black Bay 58, the standard Black Bay, and the Black Bay GMT watches, are notable pieces that have been a success when it comes to being worthy after a while. 

The demand for the Black Bay 58, which costs around $3,700, is very high. This is most likely due to its features that entail a vintage-inspired dive watch design, great proportions, and excellent specifications. As a timepiece that is highly requested, its value will at least not decrease as time passes.

It is the same with the GMT, which has also proven that, over time, it still holds value. Personally, I would not buy a Tudor watch as an investment because the possibility of the watch retaining its value over time is not certain. Rather, I would purchase them due to their awesome features and designs.

Most times, Tudor watches have been known to decrease in value by 50% and sometimes 60% immediately after they have been bought. The models I described above will retain their value. But those are just a few of the number of watches the brand has produced. For a higher investment, I would not advise that Tudor watches should be an option- not in this world.

It is, however, important to note that compared to other Tudor watch models, no watch has ever been worthy over time like the Pelagos. This model is also popular among watch enthusiasts due to its classy appearance, the quality of materials used in creating it, and its durability. Now, this watch ticks off more of the boxes than other Tudor models when it comes to the qualifications a watch must meet to gain the ability to retain its value.

Its attractive features speak for it and have given it easy access to being recognized as the best diver’s watch that the brand offers. Due to this, its status on the market will also increase. This gives the Pelagos an edge over other Tudor models in being eligible for potential investments. Therefore, compared to other Tudor watch models, the Tudor Pelagos has been recognized as a watch model that still holds its value after purchase.

Do Tudor Watches Appreciate In Value?

The fact that a Black Bay 58 holds value after some time does not mean that it is automatically a great form of investment. It is just like an expensive car. The moment I step out of an automobile shop with my brand-new ride, its value will significantly drop afterward.

While this may not be the case with all luxury watches, as some of them appreciate in value over time, Tudor watches just don’t fit into this description.

If I am looking to buy a watch that remains valuable for years to come and also appreciates in value, I’d not go for a Tudor watch. Of course, its sister company is Rolex, a brand that is known to always have value retention and also appreciates in value. 

But take it from me when I say that when it comes to value appreciation, these two brands are two opposite sides of a coin. A Rolex watch makes for a great investment, but a Tudor watch doesn’t. Unlike Rolex or Patek Philippe timepieces that produce limited editions, Tudor watches are mass-produced and always available at the Tudor stores.

But it does not mean that I would not be able to resell my Tudor watch. Looking at its top-notch quality, which is a given since it is related to Rolex, anyone would want to buy an affordable wristwatch that also bears the same high-end features that Rolex has.

Well, I know I would. In that regard, a Tudor watch can be a good investment because I will be able to sell it for a significant price, even though it may not be the exact amount I got it, nor will it be higher.

What About Vintage Tudor Watches?

As I have previously emphasized, Tudor watches have existed for quite some time. Since its initiation, it has produced an array of different lavish timepieces, some of which are now vintage. The demand for vintage Tudor watches has increased over time which is not surprising.

This is because their value has doubled, and they have also proven to be highly durable. Some of these vintage Tudor models that are now in high demand include the oldest Chronograph models, the Tudor Submariner References, the Tiger model, the Oyster Prince series, and the Big Block, amongst many others.

Many watch collectors have aimed to grab these vintage pieces whenever they find them because they are becoming harder to find, especially in good shape. What baffles me the most is why a watch with a manual winding movement holds as much value as up to double its original price.

But I remember that these vintage timepieces were very common amongst people in the military due to their waterproof features. Its strap was also suggested and supplied by the military back when Hans Wilsdorf began to create Tudor watches.

Hence, a Tudor Submariner Marine Nationale has notably doubled in value and is one of the most purchased Tudor vintage watches. The Marine Nationale, which has the initials “M.N” at the back of its case, goes hot at $22,000.

Another expensive vintage Tudor timepiece can also be the Oyster Prince series, especially the Oysterdate. This model was among the first ever Tudor watches to be released and is quite similar to the “Datejust” watch by Rolex. When I think of a simple yet elegant timepiece, the Oysterdate comes to mind because of its classic design and historical beauty. Tudor vintage pieces are the real definition of the phrase “old but gold.”

Conclusion

While it is safe to say that Tudor watches can be classified as classic, exceptional, and luxurious timepieces, the sad truth is that some of its products just might not retain their value for a long time. I would purchase a Tudor watch for its affluent look, for the “Rolex effect” which it gives, and for its other amazing features.

But I would not set my mind towards gaining double the price at which I purchased it or expect a value appreciation over the years. Overall, Tudor watches are great luxury-wise but just might not be my go-to brand for investment.

Maybe you’ve always thought owning a decent watch with a high price tag isn’t for someone at your wage level. You probably already know that owning a quality watch is a meaningful investment that may turn into a family heirloom or a rite of passage, but alas! You’ve been buying knock-off watches every year!

Come on! A timepiece is way more than a time-telling machine and is worth splurging on. Just as family matriarchs sometimes pass down treasured items, high-end watches have an inherent value that can be passed down to future generations.

But there’s a common crisis we all go through once we’ve made up our minds to seal the deal and pay for the watch we always wanted. A second dilemma. Which brand? Which design? Which material?

Getting a luxury watch is a major life decision, and the weight of responsibility to get it right often rests solely on the shoulders of the potential buyer, but hey, we are here to help!

Whether you’re marking a personal milestone or you’ve set some money aside to finally bring home your horological love, here are 12 exciting, exclusive, and extravagant timepieces under $20,000.

What To Look For In Watches Under $20,000.

High-end watches are a class of their own, and they are called Haute Horlogerie for a reason. Their very raison d’être has always been to catch the eye of top collectors, and they come with features to back this claim.

It is important to consider a few points before purchasing one because of their premium price tag and because getting one is an emotional investment. That said, here are a few points to consider before making that payment.

1. Watch Purpose

Beyond time telling, a watch is (and will always be) an intricate piece of hardware that expresses our personality. Watches come with intriguing features aside from telling the time, and these additions are called complications.

There are various complications designed to serve different purposes, so you should decide which is best for you. The most common include a tourbillon, a Day-Date complication, a moon phase, a perpetual calendar, an annual calendar, and a chronograph, which measures elapsed time and GMT. 

People who travel across many countries for business or leisure will find this world time function necessary. Again there are ‘tool’ watches which are a great option for daily wear and can easily be taken along rugged and even aquatic adventures. And dress watches which are versatile everyday timepieces for formal and informal occasions.

2. Brand Reputation

While most high-end watches from recognized brands with premium prices are designed and crafted to outlast their owners, not all proffer a statement of power and prestige. Certain watch manufacturers enjoy a global reputation for consistently delivering high-quality timepieces.

It is best to buy a watch from a reputable watchmaker if you want your timepiece to stand the test of time and convey a distinctive fashion flair.

A luxury watch is an enduring symbol of taste and class, and some of the big names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Blancpain have secured their places as world leaders in haute horlogerie.

3. Build Quality & Finishing

The build quality and finishing are just some of the major factors you should consider when getting your luxury timepiece.

The build quality generally depends on how well the watch was constructed and designed, including the state of the machinery. You should inspect the watch you plan to purchase for defects, scratches, dents, and/or any imperfections on the case, crown, buckle, strap, dial, etc.

The finishing entails the last-minute touches given to the internal and external components of the watch. Watches with exquisite shine and smoothness represent the ultimate expression of the fine craft of watchmaking.

Be sure to buy your watch from an official brand retailer to get the right quality and official packaging with a warranty.

4. Movement

The movement of a watch is the internal mechanism or engine that drives it. It is what makes the functions and complications operate, and a good movement (or caliber) will keep time reliably. Mechanical, automatic, and quartz are the three primary types of watch movement.

High-quality movements are sometimes hand-made or hand finished and polished; the best movements are COSC-chronometer certified. To attain this, the movement must pass various stringent tests over a 15-day period and fall between – 4 and + 6 seconds.

Bad movements can lose significant minutes per day and have inconsistent tick speeds, so be sure to go for a reliable movement from a reputable brand.

5. Value Retention

Certain watches make for excellent investment pieces. Buying and selling high-end watches can be a minefield of disappointing slopes for the untrained, which is why you must secure your investment by selecting watches that hold their value.

Many timepieces out there plummet in value the second they are unboxed, while others can be sold after some years for a profit under the right circumstances.

Some factors that lead to watches holding value include; brand recognition, heritage, exclusivity, availability, celebrity/movie affinity, and demand. Watches from prestigious brands like Rolex are known to retain their value and make for great investment pieces.

Remember to have your timepiece checked by a qualified professional about every five years and service it whenever advised to avoid expensive damages.

The 12 Best Watches Under $20,000

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Starting this list is none other than an iconic timepiece from the King of Haute Horology. Some misguided enthusiasts consider Rolex watches as nothing more than a status symbol that gained popularity only because they are extravagant timepieces destined to end up in fiercely guarded private collections.

How ignorant! Rolex became so popular in the first place because each watch from the Swiss Marque is hand-assembled, hand-tested, and offers incredibly high quality and longevity. 

Rolex’s raison d’être appears to be to break world records every single time, a feat they have largely accomplished since they began manufacturing avant-garde timepieces in 1905. The GMT Master II collection is part of the brand’s professional watch collection, with a lineup of robust timepieces that displays the time in two different time zones simultaneously.

The Ref. 126710BLNR is the pinnacle of the collector’s dream timepiece and is presented on a 40mm Oystersteel case with a height of 12.5mm in line with the rest of the collection. The case is entirely satin-brushed with a screw-down Triplock crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The bezel is a 24-hour GMT that combines black and blue Cerachrom flawlessly. 

The watch features the same gloss black found on contemporary professional Rolex models and is powered by the new in-house manufacture caliber 3285. Expect to spend around $17,000 in the secondary market for a like-new piece.

2. Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, Hublot’s obsession with unusual materials has revolutionized the watchmaking universe. Amidst the wide array of big and bold timepieces, the Big Bang Unico Titanium stands out and can best be expressed as the epitome of “more is more.”

The unique watch is presented in a 44 mm satin-finished and polished titanium case which obviously would be overwhelming on a small wrist. Despite the size, the watch is substantially light thanks to the use of high-quality grade 5 titanium which also offers high corrosion resistance and retains a slightly bluish metallic sheen when polished.

The matte blue skeletonized dial is pretty busy at first glance but, trust me, after wearing it for a few days, it won’t appear cluttered in any way. The dial features a 60-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, we have continuous seconds. If you look closely at the 3 o’clock sub-dial, you’ll find the date subtly positioned within.

Visible from both sides is the caliber HUB1280. Hublot calls it a UNICO manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a column wheel. The movement consists of 354 components and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The watch retails for $19,154 on Hublot’s website.

3. Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet is a brand that deserves more attention. The Swiss watchmaker produces some of the most elegant timepieces in the world with such exquisite designs that should make members of royal families and Hollywood A-listers empty their pockets. 

The Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6 is one of those watches that will make anyone turn their head towards your wrist, even if they’re mildly interested in the fine art of watchmaking. The watch seamlessly demonstrates the brand’s “savoir-faire” and is presented in a splendid 38mm 18ct rose gold case with a  slim profile of only 5.45mm.

The watch is all about purity and is extremely clean, simple, and captivating with a 2-hand display. The engine-turned “guilloché” dial is the easiest feature to spot as it steals the show while complimenting the gold case superlatively.

The dial has been kept as pure as possible and features a charming “clous de Paris” pattern in the center. Moving away from the center, you will notice circular brushed surfaces for the hour ring and, lastly, a “pavé de Paris” cobbling to distinguish the indication. The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 with a 45h power reserve. It retails for approx. $19,850

4. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin is a brand that has produced some of the most complicated and impressive timepieces in history. It is also one of the world’s top luxury watch brands, with ultra-high-end watches produced in the strictest manner to adhere to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. 

The Patrimony Manual-Winding Ref. 81180/000G-9117 is an example of the horological brilliance of the longstanding Maison and is presented in a 40mm white gold case. 

The watch is incredibly versatile with downward sloping lugs which ensures the watch sits snugly on the wrist with the help of a black Alligator leather strap. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, the classic dress watch is an aesthetic and mechanical delight. The dial is elegant, pure, and enchanting, with a flawless minimalist design.

It features slender applied white-gold hour markers, dauphine hands that are mirror polished on one side only, and a graceful Maltese Cross above ‘Vacheron Constantin’. It is powered by the in-house caliber 1400, a manual-winding movement that meets the standards of the Geneva Seal. It beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 40 hours. Expect to spend around $20,000 for the Ref. 81180/000G-9117.

5. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1130-52)

Blancpain is one of the oldest surviving brands, with roots dating back to 1735. The brand is known for producing classically styled timepieces with avant-garde technicalities. Exploring the depths of the diver’s history and evolution is impossible without talking about Blancpain.

The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms is widely recognized as the first dive watch. And whether we like it or not, Blancpain belongs in the Hall of Fame, next to legendary brands like Rolex and Omega. Fifty Fathoms, one of the earliest creations of the innovative brand, has remained an iconic and successful diving watch since its introduction in the 1950s.

Like many groundbreaking inventions, the Fifty Fathoms was born out of necessity. It was adopted by military diving units worldwide immediately after its launch and became an essential part of many divers’ kits. The Ref. 5015-1130-52 continues the outstanding legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 45mm stainless steel case with a height of 15.5mm.

The matte black dial keeps the spirit of the Fifty Fathoms alive by remaining highly legible and uncluttered. The watch is powered by the Caliber 1315, an automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve. It retails for approximately $16,000.

6. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61 is an elegant, clean, and poetic timepiece with immaculate aesthetics and clear graphics.

Inspired by high-end antique pocket watches, the case, which is made of 18-carat red gold, is exquisite and striking with juxtaposed polished and satin-brushed surfaces and strongly curved lugs. 

Turning the watch over will reveal a sapphire exhibition case back which offers a splendid view of the self-winding movement within the timepiece. The Calibre 90-02 is a beautifully refined in-house movement that can store about 42 hours of energy when fully wound. It features a large date, off-centered hours and minutes, a small second, and a moon phase indication.

The movement features nicely chamfered angles, highly polished steel parts, and thermally blued screws. The brand’s iconic “Duplex Swan Neck Regulator” heightens its appeal and includes hand-engraved balance cocks. 

The dial is what you’d expect from a distinctly German Maison with superlative watchmaking craftsmanship. It is perfectly structured and looks quite balanced and uncluttered despite the numerous indications it hosts. The watch sells for $10,000 and is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap.

7. Grand Seiko Sport Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC229

Launched at BaselWorld in 2019 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Nissan GT-R, the SBGC229 is just one of the ways Grand Seiko chose to express its DNA. The statement piece feels innately automotive and is dressed in “Bayside Blue”, from the GT-R’s iconic blue color.

The case is made up of high-intensity titanium and Grand Seiko’s blue ceramic. It measures 46.4mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 52.5mm. Ceramic has been used for the outer case only (including the bezel) since ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, while titanium is used on the inside.

The white crocodile strap is also a fitting tribute to Nissan’s classic sports car, with blue stitching that is in perfect aesthetic harmony with the blue of the case. The silvery-white textured dial has a grained surface with dark blue accents.

The dial is busy and houses totalizers for hours and minutes, a date window at 3:00, an inner and outer ring (each representing 30 seconds), the typical Spring Drive power reserve indicator, and expertly finished hour indices and handset. The watch retails for $21,000 and is powered by the Spring Drive 9R96, rated to be accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White” (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

The Calibre 321 is the holy grail of the Speedy collection and was incredibly well-received when it was introduced in 2019. Designed by Lemania’s Albert Piguet, the resurrected legendary caliber 321 is the same one found in the pre-moon references. What’s more, this revered movement is what powered the 145.012, which was worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the moon.

It is named “Ed White” because it pays respect to Astronaut Ed White, an aeronautical engineer and the first American to walk in space in 1965. During the Gemini IV space flight mission, Ed was equipped with the Speedmaster 105.003.

The Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 honors this legend and comes in a stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.7 mm across. The case is identical to the vintage model and features classic straight lugs and an unprotected crown flanked by two pushers. The matte black dial has a fine grainy texture and a ‘step’ profile, which means the minute track sits lower than the rest of the dial.

There are three recessed chronograph registers at 3, 6, and 9, showing off the running seconds, elapsed hours, and elapsed minutes, respectively. The timepiece is limited in production each year and sells for $14,100.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watchmaker with nearly 200 years of innovation and creativity pushing horology’s boundaries. The Swiss luxury watch brand was founded by Antoine LeCoultre and is famous for Its complete in-house manufacturing process.

All of its watches are of very high quality and are crafted to perfection with meticulous attention to detail. The Polaris Mariner Memovox pays tribute to the Memovox sports watches of the 1950s, whose built-in alarm was an extremely practical feature.

Memovox is a combination of two Latin words, ‘memor’, and ‘vox’, literally meaning “the voice of memory”. The alarm timepieces activated an acoustic signal to alert divers when to resurface divers after a defined time.

The Ref. Q903818J displays the epic characters of this prestigious lineage and comes in a 42mm stainless steel case. The case features a splendid mix of brushed and polished surfaces with three crowns.

The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters and adheres to the ISO 6425 standard. As a professional dive watch, the dial is highly legible, with the hands, numerals, and hour markers all treated with two colors of Super-LumiNova. It is powered by JLC’s automatic caliber 956 with 44 hours of power reserve. This watch sells for $ 19,300 on the brand’s website.

10. H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, H. Moser & Cie is a luxury watch brand that has built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. All of its watches have consistently demonstrated quality craftsmanship and mechanisms of the highest standard. 

The Dual Time Ref. 8809-1200 is a highly seductive watch that fuses the aesthetics of historical Moser pocket watches with contemporary vibes. The watch features a 42mm round stainless steel case with wire lugs and a large onion crown that bears a resemblance to the iconic pilot watches of the 1920s.

As its name states, the watch displays two time zones simultaneously. There is a third skeletonized hand similar in length to the hour hand for the dual time zone function. The main hand is sword-shaped, and both have a generous application of Super-LumiNova.

The burgundy fumé dial with sunburst pattern is enchanting and is adorned with applied Arabic numerals crafted from a ceramic-based material known as Globolight. Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house HMC 809 self-winding caliber that provides 72 hours of power reserve. The watch costs about $20,000.

11. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Bronze, an alloy of copper and pure tin, is a metal with tough properties widely used in the marine field. Apart from being highly resistant to saltwater corrosion, it is also fairly scratch-resistant and is known to acquire a stable oxidized layer after some time.

The oxidation layer preserves its structural integrity and gives it a warm and beautiful patina as time goes on. The patina-friendly material is a favorite choice for dive watches, and Panerai was the brand that sparked the bronze mania.

The Submersible Bronzo Ref. PAM00968 carries on the legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 47mm bronze case which, according to Panerai, comprises 161 grams of heavy metal for modern heroes only.

The case of the watch features a patented classic bridge device that can be seen protecting the winding crown. This focus of the brown dial is on simplicity and legibility, and as with all Panerai dive watches, it does not disappoint.

There are bold luminous hour markers and dots, a small seconds indication at 9 o’clock, and a neat date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by the in-house P.9010 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. It is rated water-resistant to 300 meters and is priced at $17,500.

12. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Presented in a 45mm grade-5 titanium case, the Ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC from Bell & Ross is a timepiece that made waves during its launch at Baselworld six years ago. The square case design is eccentric, with a round bezel and ergonomically-constructed rocker pushers with rubber inserts.

Resting above the skeletonized movement is a transparent sapphire plate used as the dial. It features a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock for elapsed chronograph minutes and indexes of the running second, printed directly on the sapphire disc at 3 o’clock. There is an applied track on the periphery and a logo and inscription below 12, all printed in gun-metal silver color.

A small aperture for the date lies nearly at six o’clock, while the hours and minutes are indicated by metal applique Super-LumiNova-filled indices. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes mounted on a woven black rubber. Expect to spend around $18,000 for a new piece.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the 12 best watches under $20,000. I hope this brief review has offered you great options for some of the most exclusive and exquisite timepieces. Whether you are buying your first luxury watch or gifting yourself a new watch to celebrate a special occasion, Exquisite Timepieces is here to help you. Check out our large selection of authentic luxury watches for sale from world-renowned luxury brands.

Seiko Shogun Ultimate Guide

Monster, Turtle, Tuna, Sumo, Samurai, Arnie…all of these are popular nicknames attributed to Seiko watches and are a testament to just how much the Japanese Giant Watchmaker has a strong cultural presence. But Shogun? That’s one we haven’t heard of recently.

Left to obscurity and sometimes the domestic market, the Seiko Shogun has been walking in the shadow of other successful dive watches from the brand’s vast portfolio since its first appearance in 2008.

We all know that the aliases proliferating online for Seiko watches all have deeper meanings, and Shogun is not without significance either. Japanese for “military ruler”, the nickname Shogun was bestowed upon the robust diver by Seiko’s fanbase to echo the imposing presence and dominating spirit of the watch.

From the history and origin of the Seiko Shogun all the way to the iconic generations that followed its release, here is an ultimate guide to one of the most ultra-robust and accessible divers of all time.

About Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko is a brand that is respected for its commitment to producing some of the best entry-level divers in the market that has charmed collectors for decades. The story of Seiko’s diver’s line of watches can be traced to the 1960s with the Tokyo Olympics.

There was a need to produce a high-performing timepiece to help the Japanese watchmaker compete with the Swiss brands hence the launch of the first dive watch from Seiko, the 6217 (62MAS), in 1965. It doubled as the first Japanese dive watch ever with a 150-meter water resistance rating. 

Before this launch, Seiko had introduced a series of pre-divers, such as a few in the Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave collection, with 50 and 30-meter water resistance. The 62MAS, however, is recognized as the brand’s signature entry into the realm of true divers.

The first version had a small crown with reference 6217-8000 and a short production span of only 90 days. An improved version (Ref. 6217-8001) with a larger crown was released the same year. 

The watch featured all the necessary dive watch elements, including luminous hands and markers, a bi-directional rotating bezel, domed plexiglass, a date window, and a low-beat automatic movement ticking at 18,000bph.

It quickly gained popularity and was a good competitor in the dive watch market until 1967, when the 6215-8000 came on board. It was the brand’s first 300-meter professional model with a Hardlex crystal and a screw-down crown.

A year later, the 6105 model, a hotly sought-after iteration, followed. The 6105-8110, or Captain Willard, is famously worn by Martin Sheen in “Apocalypse Now”. It introduced the cushion case shape, which appears to be square with rounded sides and can be seen in the SRP collection today. 

Research and development continued as the years went by, and many iconic divers with a cult following were released. Seiko divers hold a special place in the hearts of many watch enthusiasts and continue to offer excellent performance and durability at accessible price points.

History & Origin of The Seiko “Shogun”

Immediately after its debut in 2008, the Seiko “Shogun”, officially the Ref. SBDC007, attained legendary status in the Horological sphere. The history of the iconic dive watch is themed around community involvement and a display of exceptional craftsmanship from Seiko. 

The nickname was bestowed upon the divers’ from an adoring international public. It began with the watch’s description as a “full battle armor” with “crisp lines” that evoked imagery of a warrior under attack. 

The trend continued, and like a pop out of the woodwork, Shogun was embraced by Seiko’s fanbase because of the imposing presence of the timepiece due to the armor-like elements of the case. The nickname quickly spread and became deeply ingrained in the watch’s identity, representing the dive watch’s comfort, character, value, and charm.

The Shogun is presented in a 44mm titanium case which, although lighter than steel, is highly capable of withstanding an impact without distortion. 

Coming from the Seiko Prospex line, the watch is powered by the caliber 6R15 movement, which guarantees accurate timekeeping and boasts a 50-hour power reserve with hacking and manual winding functions.

The Story of the Seiko Shogun attests to the commitment and passion of a caring community. Its alluring design, combined with excellence, undoubtedly guaranteed it a spot in watchmaking history. 

The deeper we uncover the Seiko Shogun, the more we face outstanding testaments of unique features and enduring appeal. With all these in perspective, there’s no argument that the Seiko Shogun is an iconic timepiece with a track record of excellence.

Seiko “Shogun” First Generation

The first generation of the Seiko Shogun was released in 2008. The SBDC007, along with its orange variant SBDC009 were the two dive watches to first appear in Seiko’s catalog. Let’s take a closer look at the SBDC007.

The Case & Bracelet

The case of the SBDC007 had large dimensions. It measured 44mm in diameter (without the crown) and was 13.3mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 50.75mm. Titanium was used for both the case and the bracelet, making the watch lightweight and providing a high level of resistance to corrosion and outstanding durability. 

The classic elements defining the Shogun’s distinctive feature were first evident in the case of the SBDC007, as it featured a muscular angularity with razor-sharp transitions. 

The sharp dynamism of the watch can be noticed in crown protection, robust shoulders, angled inner lugs, deeply notched bezel, and flowing bevel along the circumference of the case that results in four flawless angles where the steeply angled lug descends.  

The case is brushed on top while the sides are polished, and the screw-down crown is signed with a simple S. The screw-in case back is also polished and has a few specs engraved in it as well as the Seiko Divers Tsunami logo.

The titanium bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a secure lock, a diver’s extension, and a push-button release.

The Dial

The dial of the SBDC007 is presented in black with applied dot markers. The black surface is matte-finished, making the applied hour markers stand out all the more elegantly. At 12 o’clock, you will notice the usual inverted triangle or arrow with a line in the middle.

At 6 o’clock, there’s an italicized “Automatic” inscription, followed by “SCUBA” and then “200m” underneath it, keeping the symmetry quite balanced. Again the 6 and 9 o’clock markers are presented in sword-tip shapes that match the minute hand, while the hour hand is a reflection of the 12 o’clock marker. 

There’s a neat date window at 3 o’clock and both hands and indices have been filled with Seiko’s proprietary Lumi Brite for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The unidirectional bezel is executed in titanium and is a bit aggressive, with sharp sand-blasted knurling that gives it exceptional grip capabilities.

Movement

Under the hood of the SBDC007 is Seiko’s in-house 6R15 movement. The movement, which is just a step below most of the mainstream “high-beat” movements from Seiko, was produced in 2005. It is an upgrade from its predecessor, the 7S26, as it adds the hand winding and hacking mechanism to it. 

It operates with 23 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, keeping the second’s hand sweeping gracefully across the dial. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and is relatively accurate at +25/-15 seconds per day. The caliber 6R15 is a premium workforce and was made popular by Seiko’s SARB series, Seiko’s “Sumo”, “Alpinist”, and “62MAS Re-edition” watches.

Water Resistance

The SBDC007 is water resistant to 200 meters or 660 feet, making it a proper dive tool. This means it can be used for scuba diving and will comfortably keep accurate time when worn for other recreational water sports.

Other Models Of The First Generation

The other models of the first generation include the SBDC009 and SBDC029 and two limited editions, SPB057 and SPB099.

While the SBDC007 was popularly termed the “Black Shogun,” with its sleek and timeless design, the SBDC009 was referred to as the “Orange Shogun” because its vibrant color commanded a bold statement.

Moreover, due to Seiko’s commitment to continual innovation, loyalists eagerly awaited subsequent iterations. So, in 2015, Seiko ignited the passion of its dedicated fan base by introducing the Black Shogun Prospex (ref: SBDC029) to a zealous group of brand loyalists. 

The SBDC029 was pretty much a relaunch of the SBDC007 with little changes on the dial. Compared to the SBDC007, the dial of the SBDC029 had different dial inscriptions. It featured the Prospex “X” logo in addition to the word “Automatic”, but this time, all capitalized. 

Beneath that, you’ll see “DIVER’S 200m” neatly spelled out. Recall that the SBDC007 had an italicized “Automatic” inscription with the word “SCUBA” (not Diver’s) and then “200m” underneath it.

To cater to the desires of watch collectors, Seiko introduced limited editions of the Shogun designed exclusively for Thailand. Some of these editions were the Zimbe Shogun (ref: SPB057) and the Zimbe Red Shogun (ref: SPB099), released in 2017 and 2019, respectively.

Zimbe is a word coined from the Japanese name “Jinbe Zame”, meaning “whale shark”. The movement, case material, and layout of the dial are the same, but again, there are a few tweaks. 

The dials have a graduating scheme, and the words ‘Automatic’ at 6 o’clock have been replaced with “Limited Edition”. The SPB057J and SPB099 also feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, as well as cyclops over the date window at 3 o’clock.

Seiko “Shogun” Second Generation

The second generation of the Seiko Shogun was launched in 2020 under the reference numbers SPB191J1 and SPB189J1. The mission of this launch was to replace its predecessor with enhanced reliability and functionality, so the main upgrade is more technical than visual. 

That said, the Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 watches retain the core personality of the SBDC007 while incorporating some of the brand’s newest materials and technologies.

For dimensions, they measure 43.5mm in diameter (so still large yet able to sit comfortably), 51mm from lug to lug, and 13.3mm in thickness. The titanium case has the same angular lugs and strong shoulders with sharp crown protections for the screw-down crown. 

The case is further finished with Seiko’s super-hard coating for additional robustness. The watches still deliver all the elements of the Shogun we have come to love, such as remarkable legibility and a 200-meter water resistance rating.

Both feature a sharp-toothed unidirectional bezel like that of their predecessors with a titanium insert. The bezel of the Shogun SPB191J1 is two-toned and presented in black and anthracite, while the SPB189J1 variant has a distinctive black and bronze layout. 

Unlike the first Shogun generation, the Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 models have an upgraded sapphire crystal, which has a better scratch resistance than the Hardlex crystal found in the first generation.

The dials of the second generation also appear smoother and more rounded, resembling those on the Seiko Monster, and boast elegant triangle-shaped markers (no dots this time around) with more rounded hands.

We highlighted earlier that the main difference is more technical, which is evident in the movement mechanism. The second generation features the updated 6R35 caliber with 24 jewels and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. In contrast, the first generation uses 6R15 caliber with 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

While both movements offer hacking functionality and manual winding, the major improvement can be seen in the power reserve as the 6R35 provides 20 hours more than the 6R15.

Ultimately, the second-generation Shogun watches stand out in more ways than one. The various tweaks on the dial enhance legibility, while the improved power reserve makes it a better choice for watch enthusiasts.

Seiko “Shogun” vs Other Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko has been at the forefront of new technologies and designs since Kintarō Hattori released the brand’s first pocket watch, the Seikosha Timekeeper, in 1895.

The Seiko Shogun and other Seiko dive watches adhere to the brand’s high standards for the manufacturing of divers, garnering acclaim from professional divers all over the globe. However, the brand offers different types of diver’s watches at different price points.

Currently, there are over 120 models of divers in the Seiko Prospex collection, from mechanical watches to the solar-powered Prospex PADI Chronographs. Let’s see how the Seiko “Shogun” compares against other Seiko Dive Watches.

1. Quality

Even though Seiko has always focused on creating affordable dive watches, its watchmaking expertise and its proprietary technology have made it synonymous with high quality and expert craftsmanship.

There may be more style and functionality at almost every hundred-dollar increment when it comes to the watches in its catalog. But you can be sure that each one is made of high-quality raw materials, and the Shogun is no exception. 

All Seiko divers undergo a series of stringent lab tests to prove quality, reliability, and durability before they are released to the general public. So the Shogun, like other dive watches, is designed to last long. The protective glass of the more recent release is made up of high-grade sapphire, while the older iterations feature Hardlex crystal. 

Titanium, which is about 40% lighter than stainless steel but just as durable against impacts with similar technical and physical qualities, also gives the Shogun an edge over other dive watches from the brand.

Divers with nickel sensitivity will find the Shogun a preferable option because of the use of titanium. But, all in all, the quality is up to par with premium dive watches at the cutting edge of technology.

2. Legibility

Seiko dive watches are known for their straightforward, thoughtful, and highly legible design. Lume is always generously applied to the hands and indices with a high level of finishing on the hands and markers that not only play with the light for aesthetic purposes but also heighten the legibility of the watch.

The Shogun like many other dive watches has Seiko’s LumiBrite on the dial which glows brightly in the dark and will keep the timepiece highly legible at depths of 200 meters underwater. LumiBrite is a tremendously improved luminous paint that is completely free of radioactive elements and quickly absorbs light energy on exposure to it which it stores and emits in the dark. 

Visibility is enhanced in every detail, and the bold markers and handset of the Shogun are a testament to this. Add that to an uncluttered dial, and you have a timepiece with no compromise or distracting ornamentation, a feature of every dive watch from the Seiko. 

3. Movement

Seiko dive watches use three different movement variations. First, we have automatic or mechanical movements (such as the 6R35 in the Shogun) which are self-winding and work by harnessing the kinetic energy from the wearer’s natural movements. 

Some other dive watches utilize quartz. This means they are powered by a battery that transfers an electric current via the quartz crystal, thus creating vibration and oscillation. The electric pulse from this oscillating movement then powers a small electric motor that turns the gears in the watch. 

The last set of dive watches uses solar energy and works by converting light energy into electrical energy, which it stores in the rechargeable battery and ultimately uses to power the watch. The first generation of the Shogun used the 6R15 caliber, while the second generation is powered by the 6R35 caliber.

The latter is an evolution of the 6R15 movement and is found in many mid-range Prospex watches. Even though it’s not a very accurate movement, it is robust, reliable, easy to service, and offers great value for money. Quartz divers win in terms of accuracy and convenience. 

Even though the 6R15 and 6R35 of the Shogun serve their purpose and count as a reliable power horses, the accuracy is poor. You will find them in dive watches that typically span the $300-$600 range, including famous dive watches like the ‘Sumo’ (Seiko SPB103J1) and the Seiko Prospex Recreation (Ref. SPB053J1).

4. Design

When compared with other dive watches from Seiko, the Shogun utilizes the same layout but adds something a little extra. The element of beauty in The Shogun can be found in the interplay of sharp angles and flat surfaces that interact beautifully with light and shadow to create a striking aesthetic effect. 

When you look at the SPB189 & SPB191, you can see the standard divers watch feature with rounded sides and integrated lugs but the sharp lines and resilience of the Shogun are quite distinctive. 

Seiko knows better than to change a proven recipe, so every feature in the Prospex collection that is loved can be seen here. I mean the overall design (which is close to that of a Samurai watch), the reasonable price, and of course, the overall performance. 

So there are no major differences, only little tweaks here and there that make the watch appear more angular, creating a beautiful contrast, light on one side and shadow on the other to create an element of beauty.

At the core, the Shogun is just like other dive watches from Seiko with a polished and brushed case, screwed case back, a screw-down crown (both guaranteeing a 200m water resistance), and a highly legible dial.

5. Price

In terms of value for money, the Seiko Shogun holds its ground against other Seiko dive watches. When comparing prices, the Seiko Shogun is competitively priced within the dive watch market. 

The Seiko Monster, for instance, starts at around $250. The Seiko Samurai is priced at about $525, while the Seiko Turtle hovers around the $400 mark. The Seiko Tuna series, known for its durability, can range in price from $300 to over $800, depending on the model and condition.

While these other dive watches have unique features and price points, the Seiko Shogun remains compelling. 

The Seiko Shogun stands out on its own merits, but it is one of the most expensive entry-level dive watches from the Japanese Giant Watchmaker because titanium is used for the case and strap. Titanium watches are generally more expensive than stainless steel.  

Even though the latter is abundant and readily available, it is more difficult to process and costs more to purchase and repair hence the higher price.

Whether you’re a sports enthusiast, an adventure seeker, or simply appreciate a high-quality dive watch, the Seiko Shogun offers a compelling package that will impress you; however, prepare to spend a bit more for it.

Should You Buy A Seiko “Shogun”?

The Shogun is a timepiece that commands instant attention. Depending on the vendor and model, you can get the Shogun anywhere from $1,200 to $3,500 for a brand-new model, and it’s no longer news that its titanium case sets it apart from other watches in the Seiko Prospex collection. Here are four reasons why you should consider adding Seiko Shogun to your collection.

  • The value is just incredible.

The Shogun is a watch synonymous with excellent quality, fit, and finish. You will instantly recognize the high quality when you hold it in your hands. The watch is designed to be robust, reliable, and dependable.

  • It is built using high-quality materials.

Titanium is one of the strongest materials out there, with a higher strength-to-density ratio when compared to stainless steel. The robustness of the case and bracelet of the Shogun will ensure longevity and durability, making it a watch you could wear every day for years without the slightest sign of getting worn out. From the onset, Seiko has never sacrificed durability in the making of any component, including the movement, which doesn’t change with the Shogun.

  • Enhanced legibility in every detail.

From the hands to the hour markers and bezel, the high level of legibility can be seen in almost every detail. If you want a durable watch for underwater exploration, you need to be able to read it. Seiko knows this, and the Shogun will always remain one of the most legible divers. A generous application of Lumibrite on the hands, indexes, and bezel means that time can be read correctly from any angle and at any depth, adding to the watch’s appeal.

  •  200 meters of water resistance.

The water resistance rating of the Shogun makes the dive watch reliable and suitable for the sport it is named for and for a great many underwater adventures. It can also be worn during sailing, surfing, and even fishing. 

Concerning availability and price. The SPB189 & SPB191 are readily available and can be gotten from authorized dealers from Seiko worldwide. If you want a budget-friendly option, a pre-owned Shogun can be bought anywhere from $750 up, but you can purchase a new piece of the Shogun SPB189 here and Shogun SPB191 right here for $ and $1,350 respectively.

Conclusion

Let’s be honest. The Seiko Shogun isn’t for everyone. If you like the concept of a timepiece with an imposing presence, large dimensions, and premium features, then it’s a great option. However, the size and muscularity might not appeal to everyone, which is just fine. 

Alternatives that can offer much of the Shogun’s features and charm can be found within the Seiko lineup. The Shogun, however, will forever remain one of Seiko’s emblematic dive watches beloved by devoted collectors, mostly because of its robustness and lightweight titanium case.

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