Category: Watch Reviews

Mido is an under-the-radar watch brand that’s worth taking a look at. Mido has been around for over a century, and for more than a few decades, they’ve been a part of the Swatch Group, but they are a bit neglected, in my opinion. 

They haven’t received the marketing attention they deserve, and that’s a shame because Mido puts out some high-quality timepieces with great style and strong vintage vibes. When you think about some of the more notable brands in the Swatch Group in the same entry-level luxury space, like Tissot and Hamilton, they’re known for their associations with the NBA and big Hollywood movie and television productions.

Yet, Mido is known for its sponsorship of Red Bull Cliff Diving, which is cool, but lacks the exposure of Hollywood and big sports. In this article, we will take you on a deep-dive expedition in the remote world of Mido and examine some of its top models.

From the Ocean Star line with the rainbow dial that created quite a slash in recent years to the Commander collection, a nod to their heritage, we’re sure there’s something here for everyone. Their commitment to design and their attention to detail make them a solid representation of quality Swiss watchmaking that won’t disappoint.

The History Of Mido Watches

The Mido brand was born in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, by founder George G. Schaeren, a master Swiss watchmaker, who gave Mido its name. Mido comes from the Spanish word Yo Mido, translated as I measure; an acknowledgment of the importance of precise timekeeping to chronicle mankind’s achievements in sports and beyond. These are the ideals the brand has been living up to ever since.

Watch horologists and collectors put a high premium on a brand’s heritage. It’s their story that explains what they stand for and the accomplishments and milestones in their history that demonstrate how they have lived up to those ideals. Some have strong military ties during the Second World War, and others have pushed the boundaries of watch engineering. 

When examining Mido, you’ll see they’ve got innovative chops to impress the experts. In 1924, Mido introduced their Multifort, which proved to be a rugged powerhouse and set new standards in the watch industry for water resistance. 

In the 30s and 40s, they garnered further attention with the Mido Multicenterchrono, the first watch with a central chronograph hand and a mouthful of a name to remember it by. This accomplishment, combined with their Mutifort, sent clear signals to the industry that the Mido brand was committed to innovation. 

By 1944, Mido had released the Ocean Star collection, with its rugged good looks and solid water resistance, it became a fan favorite among divers and water sports athletes and remains so.

By the 1950s, Mido had launched one of their most iconic lines, the Commander. The collection featured styles that were both vintage and modern, and it’s still a popular collection offered today. 

In recent years, Mido has received a number of awards in the watch industry, including the Red Dot Design Award and the iF Design Award, which further demonstrates their quality and design accomplishments. 

What’s The Status Of Mido Today?

Mido has remained a respectable watch brand admired by collectors and watch experts. They don’t have the name ID as many of their direct competitors, but they continue to build quality, Swiss-made timepieces with many popular complications such as antimagnetic properties, chronographs, and automatic movements. All of this is delivered in a robust, durable, stylish package and at a reasonable price. 

Rising in Rank

Mido has received recognition in recent years, winning design awards and becoming a favorite of the critics, despite the fact that they haven’t become as popular with the general public. When one compares Mido to a brand like Shinola, it’s easy to see that you’re just getting so much more from an engineering and features standpoint with Mido.

Both brands offer nicely designed vintage watches, but Mido consistently delivers more bang for the buck. With better marketing, a brand like Mido has all the right stuff to break through. 

Excellence in Craftsmanship

Mido is known for its attention to detail and the rigorous testing it puts its watches through. MNido only hires the most skilled Swiss watchmakers to ensure that every component is perfectly integrated. Mido takes pride in their work, which is evident in how they uphold the highest Swiss horological traditions. 

Innovation and Technological Advancements

Mido has long maintained a good balance between innovation while remaining true to their heritage. What they call a neo-vintage style, Mido pairs traditional looks with modern touches. They match tradition with the latest tech, such as their caliber 80 automatic movement, which is officially certified by the COSC and offers a robust 80-hour power reserve. 

Another area of innovation they shine in is with their Nivachron balance-spring. This titanium-based metal allows for a reduction of the effect from a magnetic field while offering top-notch shock resistance. 

Unique Design

Mido is known for using architectural wonders the world over as inspiration for their watch designs, incorporating clean lines, distinct shapes, and luxurious textures. They’re elegant and timeless, yet sophisticatedly cosmopolitan and upmarket. Their watches stand out with their eye-catching designs. 

Accessible Luxury

Mido timepieces offer affordable luxury that doesn’t compromise on all the things that matter, like design, quality, and heritage. This makes them a great option for those looking to get into the luxury watch market, as well as seasoned collectors that see this as a brand that could break out in the future. 

Mido’s current era is marked by a continuation of its track record in pushing boundaries and offering new innovations. They’re doing everything right except for marketing, and this offers a potential opportunity to stanch them up at a reasonable price before someone at Swatch Group recognizes this hidden gem in their constellation of brands. 

The Best Mido Watches

1.   MIDO OCEAN STAR 200 REF. M026.430.11.051.00

The Ocean Star 200 is a classic diver’s watch with rugged good looks. The stainless steel case measures 42.5mm and features a gear-style edging along the outside of the bezel. The case measures 11.8mm thick, which is very reasonable, especially for a diver, which can often be chunky. 

The slimmer profile allows this timepiece to easily slide under a dress shirt and therefore makes this a more versatile watch. The watch includes a handsome, rotating black bezel. The dial is clean and simple, as a diver should be, with silver hands and rectangular indices. There’s a day and date window at three o’clock and an orange tip on the second hand to offer a pop of color. 

Under the hood, the watch is powered by a modified ETA movement with a rather substantial power reserve of 80 hours. The timepiece offers a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, and water resistance of up to 200 meters. The watch is paired with a brushed stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a diver extension system. 

The screw-down case back displays the Ocean Star logo. The timepiece is offered in seven different configurations, at various price points, including a rubber strap, two-tone steel and rose gold, a stunning blue and gold with a synthetic strap, gray and black, and a blue dial with a darker blue bezel. 

Price: $970

2.   MIDO BARONCELLI HERITAGE GENT REF. M027.407.16.010.00

Understated elegance. Those are the two words that come to mind when gazing upon the Mido Baroncelli Heritage Gent. The timepiece has a thin profile. After all, it’s only 7.3mm thick, and between that and its soft features, there’s a delicate nature to the watch. 

Yet, that delicateness is balanced by a mid-size 39mm stainless steel case. The sandpaper white dial with its painted black indices, date window at three o’clock, and its silver sword-style hands, oozes class. The sharp blue second hand adds just the right touch of sophistication. 

Turn the watch over, and you’ll find an open case back displaying the Mido automatic ETA movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The display is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 30 meters, which is acceptable, as this is a dress watch, not meant for diving or water sports. The black leather strap is an embossed cow leather that looks like more upmarket alligator leather and is fitted with a simple stainless steel tang buckle. 

Price: $1,040  

3.   MIDO MULTIFORT TV BIG DATE REF. M049.526.11.041.00

The unique shape of the Mido Multifort TV Big Date is probably the first thing one notices. It’s not exactly square. It’s not exactly a rectangle. Its edges aren’t precisely straight, but nor are they completely round. Mido calls it a TV shape. It has an 80s throwback vibe to my eye. 

As the name suggests, there is a large date window at 12 o’clock. The shape reminds me of an old Apple computer monitor. If you can remember the Macintosh, like me, then perhaps your eyes will benefit from the enlarged date. The intense dial features a horizontal brushed deep blue gradient dial that turns black at the edges. 

There’s a mix of circular and rectangular indices, and the chunky gray hands and slim seconds hand finishes off the dial nicely. It’s a pleasing, distinctive design to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Big Date.

The contrasting brushed and polished surfaces around the case of the watch offer a refined look. The stainless steel case measures 39.2mm and sits on the wrist at 11.5mm thick. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal and the screw-down crown is protected by a partial crown guard on the sides. 

Despite the 80s vibes to the look of the timepiece, inside, it’s powered by the latest tech. The watch offers a Mido automatic ETA with 80 hours of power reserve, water resistance to 100 meters, and is fitted with powerful shock and antimagnetic resistance from its balance spring. The timepiece is paired with a rather handsome and fitting gray stainless steel bracelet with satin outer links and polished inner links. 

Price: $1,250 

4.   MIDO OCEAN STAR CHRONOGRAPH REF. M026.627.44.041.00

This is a unique offering. The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph is both a dive watch and a chronograph, which is a noteworthy pairing, and something Mido is known for. The titanium case measures 44mm and sits on the wrist at 15.6mm. It’s a chunky diver, but the bulk is offset by the lightness of the titanium. 

The ceramic navy blue bezel handsomely wraps an almost marine blue dial with applied indices. The thick, skeletonized hour and minute hands are contrasted by a slim seconds hand with an orange tip, matching the orange lettering of the Ocean Star logo and the small orange triangle at 12 o’clock.

The face of the watch offers a two-register dial, a tachymeter in nautical miles, and a date window at 6 o’clock. The dial is protected by sapphire crystal, and there’s a partially protected screw-down crown with crown guards on the sides and flanking pushers. 

The watch is powered by Mido’s automatic ETA with a 60-hour power reserve and features date, chronograph, and small seconds functions. It has a water resistance of up to 200 meters and is fitted with a titanium gray bracelet with contrasting satin and polished links, a folding clasp, and a diver extension system. 

Price: $2,500

5.   MIDO BARONCELLI SIGNATURE REF. M037.407.11.051.01

Mido describes the Baroncelli Signature as “intensely chic and timeless”, and I think that’s an apt description. The design cues of this timepiece strike a balance between classic and fashion-forward. The stainless steel case is 9.9mm thin, as a dress watch should be. The round case measures 39mm. The black dial, with its silver, applied indexes and silver sword-style hands, is elegant.

There’s a thin textured outer ring and an almost beaded gray inner ring with a center black sunburst dial. A date window at three o’clock adds an element of functionality. The open caseback proudly shows the watch’s Mido’s automatic ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The face is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters.

It features the anti-shock and magnetic properties we’ve previously addressed. The watch weighs 111 grams and is accompanied by a two-year warranty. 

The timepiece’s bracelet is an attractive, up-scale, multilink stainless steel bracelet that gives it a little bit of a sporty flair to an otherwise dressy watch. The timepiece comes in eight different configurations, with offerings in silver, gold, and diamonds, at different price points. 

Price: $970  

6.   MIDO COMMANDER CHRONOGRAPH REF. M016.414.36.081.00

As previously noted, Mido finds inspiration from architectural icons. This version, the Mido Commander Chronograph, is big and bold, as I’m sure the building that served as its muse is. The stainless steel and PVD-coated rose gold case measures 42.5mm and sits on the wrist at 14.9mm thick, so it’s not exactly a thin profile. The gray sunray dial has rose gold-toned lined indices and hands. 

The dial offers three registers with darker backgrounds against the gray, two larger at six and twelve o’clock and a smaller one at nine o’clock. There’s also a day and date window at three o’clock. There’s a lot going on with the dial, but it’s compartmentalized well, so it doesn’t feel too busy. 

The watch weighs 110 grams. The face is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters. The see-through case back displays the caliber 60 Mido ETA automatic chronograph movement with a 60-hour power reserve and offers multiple functions, including day, date, Chronograph, and small seconds.

The timepiece is paired with a brown leather alligator-like strap with a folding clasp. This special edition version also comes with a second synthetic strap for a more casual look. The watch comes in another version that’s all steel with a stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $2,090 

7.   MIDO MULTIFORT M CHRONOMETER REF. M038.431.11.097.00

The Mido Multifort M Chronometer is one of those everyday watches that practically checks all the boxes. The stainless steel case measures 42mm and sits on the wrist at roughly 12mm thick. The face of the timepiece is protected by sapphire crystal. 

The dial features silver sword-style hands against a horizontal brushed green gradient dial, with black at the outer edges. The applied indexes are a mix of indices and numbers, with numbers at 6, 9, and 12. There’s a day and date window at three o’clock. 

The open case back makes visible the Mido ETA automatic movement that’s COSC certified. It has an 80-hour power reserve. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters. The stainless steel strap is a three-link Oyster-style with a hidden butterfly clasp. 

The only thing perhaps missing from the bracelet is micro-adjustment, but everything about this watch is so well finished down to the satin face of the links, contrasted with the polished link sides. Finishing work… that’s one thing Mido does well that some of its competitors in this price range could do better. 

Price: $1,350  

8.   MIDO OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE REF. M026.830.11.051.00

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a real standout special edition in the Ocean Star collection. I don’t usually jump right into the bracelet in my review, but what I like most about the design is the bracelet. It’s a multilink mesh-like stainless steel band that looks smart and feels as comfortable as it looks. It also comes with a second black canvas strap with contrasting orange stitching.

The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits on the wrist at 13.44mm. The rotatable black bezel has a steel gear edge. The domed sapphire crystal covering the face adds to the overall vintage 60s diver vibes of the watch. The chunky gray hour and minute hands are nicely complimented by an orange lollipop-style seconds hand. 

There’s a day and date window at three o’clock. The watch is powered by a Mido automatic ETA with an 80-hour power reserve. The timepiece includes a screw-down crown and is water resistant to 200 meters. The watch comes in seven different configurations, with blue, black, green, and red dials. 

Price: $1,200

9.   MIDO BELLUNA SUNRAY REF. M024.630.33.051.00

The Belluna Sunray is an all-black PVD-coated stainless steel. The round case measures 41.5mm and sits at 10.8mm on the wrist. Mido describes the black dial as a “dazzling sunray guilloché-style”. 

The modern dial includes silver applied indices with a double index at the twelve o’clock position. There’s also a functional day and date window at three o’clock. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The back of the case displays the Mido automatic ETA movement with its 80-hour power reserve.

The watch is fitted with a black PVD-coated stainless steel multi-link bracelet with a folding clasp. The black case, dial, and bracelet give it a sleek look. The contrasting finishing of satin and polished surfaces adds to the watch’s elegance. The timepiece comes in three different configurations, with a blue dial and one with a brown leather strap option. 

Price: $1,160  

10.  MIDO MULTIFORT PATRIMONY REF. M040.407.16.040.00

The Multifort Patrimony has a retro look from the early 19th century when pulsometer watches were first designed for physicians who needed to track the heart rate of their patients. These watches also became popular with athletes, who wanted to keep their heart rate in the proper range for maximum benefit. 

The round stainless steel case measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at 12mm thick. The beautiful gradient blue dial is mesmerizing, and the vintage Mido logo at twelve o’clock is a nice touch. The dial has a mix of indexes and numbers at 3, 6, 9, and 12. There’s a date window at six o’clock. There’s a pulsometer scale on the outer rim of the dial. 

There’s an open case back revealing the Mido automatic ETA with an 80-hour power reserve. The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal. The watch is paired with an embossed beige cow leather that looks almost suede, with contrasting stitching, and features a simple stainless steel tang buckle. The watch is available in a couple of different configurations, including an anthracite gray dial with a black leather strap. 

Price: $930 

11.  MIDO OCEAN STAR 600 CHRONOMETER REF. M026.608.11.041.01

The Mido Ocean Star collection of diver watches should be at or near the top of your list if you’re looking for a diver in this price range. Some of the Ocean Star designs have been inspired by European lighthouses. This Ocean Star 600 Chronometer is a high-quality diver for a reasonable price point. 

The stainless steel case measures 43.5mm and sits on the wrist at 14.6mm. The timepiece features a rotatable ceramic bezel in dark blue, which contrasts nicely with the gradient dial that starts from a black center and progressively gets lighter shades of blue to the outer rim. 

The white, silver-lined indexes are a mix of circles, squares, and a triangle at twelve o’clock. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The chunky silver/gray hour and minute hands are complemented by a gray lollipop seconds hand with an orange tip. Both the bezel, the dial markings, and the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, for readability on those dark water dives.

The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal and the screw-down crown, with partial side crown guards and screw-down caseback with the Star logo, proves water resistance up to 600 meters. There’s even a helium escape valve. All of those elements make this a serious diver’s watch. The timepiece is powered by a COSC-certified automatic movement with a power reserve of up to 80 hours. 

The stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and diver’s extension system is nicely finished with contrasting satin outer links with polished inner links. The timepiece has pretty much anything one would be looking for in a diver. The watch comes in three different configurations, including a black dial against stainless steel and one all-black version. 

Price:$1,780 

12.  MIDO BARONCELLI CHRONOMETER SILICON GENT REF. M027.408.16.061.00

The Mido Baroncelli Chronometer Silicon Gent is a refined timepiece for gentlemen of substance and taste. Supposedly inspired by the blissful and eternal aesthetic of stringed instruments, this design is one to be admired.

The round stainless steel case measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at a thin 9.4mm. The horizontally brushed anthracite dial with gold-toned applied indexes and hands are the epitome of class. There’s also a date window at three o’clock. 

The face of the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflection treatment. The open caseback displays the COSC-certified Mido automatic chronometer with a power reserve of 80 hours. The timepiece is paired with a brown embossed cow leather that simulates an alligator leather look and is fitted with a folding clasp. 

It’s a straightforward design that is sure to solicit admiration. There are also four other configurations of this model with white and blue dials that, in one case, has a black leather strap and, in the other, a stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $1,180 

13.  MIDO COMMANDER GRADIENT REF. M021.407.11.411.01

If you’re looking for a timepiece with a stand-out, unique design, this is it. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Mido Commander Gradient is one to behold. There’s a blue-gray ringed internal bezel under the glass with an inner date wheel. At the center is an open view of the movement.

The hands and indices are modern and gray. The stainless steel case measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at 10.8mm thick. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The see-through caseback displays the 80 caliber, 25-jewel, Mido automatic ETA movement, with a date function and 80 hours of power reserve. 

The watch is water resistant to 50 meters and features a balance spring to protect against shock and magnetism. The timepiece is paired with a gray stainless steel modern-styled bracelet with a folding clasp. 

Price: $960 

14.  MIDO OCEAN STAR 200C TITANIUM REF. M042.430.44.051.00

I’m not sure what architectural wonder Mido is claiming inspired this timepiece, but to my eye, it looks an awful lot like the Omega Seamaster Diver. There’s nothing wrong with a tribute to the iconic Seamaster, if that’s the case, as it is a true classic. 

The Mido Ocean Star 200C comes in a titanium case and measures 42.5mm, and sits on the wrist at 12.3mm thick, which isn’t too bad for a diver. The black dial has a horizontal wave pattern with round indices and a triangle at twelve o’clock. There’s also a day and date window at three o’clock. 

The screw-down caseback and crown, with partial side crown guards, give the watch a 200-meter water resistance, which should be plenty unless you’re a professional. The Mido caliber 80 automatic ETA movement is the one we’ve previously detailed. 

The bracelet is a dark gray titanium with a folding clasp and diving extension system. This model comes in a total of five configurations, including green, blue, black, and gray dials with stainless steel and rubber strap options. 

Price: $1,250 

15.  MIDO BARONCELLI SMILING MOON GENT REF. M027.407.11.010.01

The Mido Baroncelli Smiling Moon Gent timepiece is a beautiful work of art on the wrist. The first thing that grabs the attention is the large aperture on the dial, which Mido describes as a smile, revealing the eight phases of the moon against a blue starry night sky, on a rotating wheel. 

The sandpaper white dial with black Roman numerals and applied indexes is a classy touch. The sword-styled, shaded white-silver hour and minute hands, along with the sharp blue second hand, look elegant against a white background. The stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter and an ultra-thin 7.3mm in thickness.

The open caseback reveals the Mido automatic ETA movement with a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s water resistant to 30 meters, which is basically splash resistant. The upmarket multilink stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp completes the timepiece. The watch comes in four different configurations with a blue dial option and a version for the ladies in a pink gold tone. 

Price: $1,220

16.  MIDO MULTIFORT PATRIMONY CHRONOGRAPH REF. M040.427.16.052.00

Mido delivers a smashing two-register chrono with their Mido Multifort Patrimony Chronograph. The timepiece pays tribute to their 1937 Multichrono. The domed dial under the sapphire crystal features a tachymeter scale. 

The black dial, with contrasting gray subdials, includes gray hands and white numerals. At twelve o’clock there’s a vintage Mido logo and at six o’clock a date window. The stainless steel case measures 42mm and sits on the wrist at 15.2mm thick.

Under the hood, one will find Mido’s automatic ETA, with a 60-hour power reserve that includes functions of date, chronograph, and small seconds. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters. 

The strap is black leather that simulates alligator leather with a stainless steel tang buckle. At these prices, you think Mido could spring for real alligator leather and a folding clasp, but overall it’s a nice timepiece. The watch also comes in a gold-tone version.

Price: $2,260 

17.  MIDO OCEAN STAR GMT REF. M026.629.11.041.00

The Mido Ocean Star GMT is a handsome little number that has all the right features. The rotating ceramic bezel is navy blue for diving. There’s an inner GMT bezel that gets the Pepsi treatment and blue dial. 

The applied indices are stacked double squares at twelve and six o’clock; the rest are rectangular. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch has stubby skeletonized hour and minute hands in gray, a gray seconds hand with a red tip, and a red GMT hand.

The timepiece boasts a screw-down crown and water resistance of 200 meters. The Mido-modified ETA automatic movement has an 80-hour power reserve with date and GMT functions. Since this is a special edition model, the watch comes with two straps, a Nato with a tang buckle and a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and diver extension system. 

This is a unique timepiece that offers the best of both worlds, a GMT function for pilots and world travels, plus all the diver functions that Ocean Stars are known for. There are a few different configurations, including versions with a black dial, a two-tone rose gold (PVD-coated) and steel version, and one with a blue synthetic strap. 

Price: $1,460 

18.  MIDO BARONCELLI BIG DATE REF. M027.426.36.018.00

This is another model in the Baroncelli Big Date collection, perhaps for those with low vision or those who want a dial to “screams” the date at them. I’m sure Mido has more sophisticated reasons for their big date, but those are my guesses. This is a classic dress watch with a 40mm rose gold (PVD coated) case that sits on the wrist at 10.4mm. 

There are a number of subtle touches to the finishing of this timepiece that demonstrate Mido’s commitment to detail and quality, such as the double gadroon bezel and double-sided hands. The watch offers a white dial with rose gold-tone hands and applied index with a Roman numeral at twelve o’clock and a large date window in the opposite position.

The open case back reveals Mido’s automatic ETA with its 80-hour power reserve. This watch has a 30-meter water resistance and is paired with an alligator-like black leather strap with a folding clasp. The timepiece comes with a two-year warranty and weighs 70 grams. There are a couple of other configurations available with multilink steel bracelets, one of them two-tone with rose (PVD coated) gold. 

Price: $1,050  

19.  MIDO BELLUNA ROYAL GENT REF. M024.507.16.041.00

This is another good-looking dress watch from Mido. It’s all about the dial with this one. The under-the-hood mechanics are solid, but it’s the dial that stands out. The Mido Belluna Royal Gent we’re examining here is a guilloché-style sunray motif. 

Atop the blue dial are silver sword-style hands and silver applied indexes. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The cushion-shaped stainless steel case measures 41.8mm and sits on the wrist at 10.1mm.

The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal, there’s a signed crown and it’s water resistant to 50 meters. The timepiece is powered by Mido’s automatic ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve. 

The case has contrasting satin and polished surfaces, and it’s paired with a black alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. This model comes in four different configurations, including some with silver and dark gray dials and those with stainless steel bracelets and gold-tone options. 

Price: $840 

20.  MIDO OCEAN STAR DECOMPRESSION WORLD TIMER REF. M026.829.17.041.00

We saved one of the best models for last. The Mido Ocean Star Decompression World Timer created quite a splash in the world of watchmaking design recently and has centered more attention on Mido. It’s a busy, fun, funky dial with some Aloha vibes. Mido describes it as an “irresistible neo-vintage style” with its bright colors, antique notes, and modern technology. 

I don’t usually favor a busy dial, but I can see this on my wrist while I surf the Waikiki waves. The dial features various shades of blue, yellow, and salmon. There are white-silver lined hour, minute, and second hands, plus a red GMT hand. 

There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. Various scales are displayed on the dial, including a decompression timer. The outer blue GMT bezel displays cities from around the world. The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits on the wrist at 13.4mm.

The timepiece is powered by Mido’s automatic ETA movement with GMT and date functions. It’s water resistant to 200 meters and features a signed screw-down crown. This is a great all-rounder that performs well in active water sports but also offers GMT functions for pilots and world travelers. Seems like the perfect watch for a Hawaiian Airlines pilot. The timepiece comes with two straps, a blue synthetic strap with a pin buckle, and a mesh stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $1,310 

Parting Thoughts

I hope you’ve enjoyed our tour of the world of Mido watches. They’re an under-the-radar brand that deserves another look. They offer some excellent collections that have stood the test of time. 

From their cool Ocean Star divers to their iconic Commander, inspired by noteworthy architecture from around the world, to their versatile Multifort, there’s something for everyone. I especially appreciate their finishing quality, consistency, and attention to detail. They’ve also got the right engineering chops and track record to prove it. Check them out; you won’t be disappointed.

Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus, a mythical inventor who constructed wings out of feathers and wax. The wings were to aid the duo in flying out of Crete, where they were held captive by King Minos. 

Taking to flight with unfathomable excitement, Icarus soon forgot his father’s warnings and flew too close to the sun. His wings melted, and he died, but the myth implied that man’s innate desire to fly would be impossible. 

Yet the desire lived on, and on December 17th, 1903, the Wright brothers invented the world’s first successful motor-operated airplane. The wish to soar through the atmosphere was now granted, but another need was created, namely a timepiece to help the pilots keep track of their flying time.

Positioned more as statement pieces today than critical tools used in the air, pilot’s watches were launched to serve as timing devices for aviators. Nothing best captures the intrigue and excitement of a navigator’s lifestyle like a pilot’s watch.

This is why we put together a comprehensive list of the best pilot watches to satisfy your aeronautical fantasies. Enjoy!

About Pilot Watches

During the early decades of aviation, there was no such thing as aeronautical timing devices. Pilots desperately needed a timer because the timing was a vital element in nearly every aviation-related calculation.

To meet this pressing lack, timing devices were created to help pilots with simple calculations and keep accurate flight times. The first was a small gold watch with a square face and exposed screws, constructed by Louis Cartier.

Aviation watches are considered to be one of the first real onboard “computers” for pilots. They often feature specific characteristics and functionalities that are useful for flight-related activities. 

All pilots’ watches are designed with aviators in mind; thus, the dials have a highly legible display, large enough to be read when flying. 

Many pilot’s watches include chronograph complications, which enable pilots to measure elapsed time for various tasks, such as flight calculations and navigation.

The pilot’s watch saw innovations to make an aviator’s job even easier, and many of them on the market today incorporate useful features. 

These include dual time zone displays, integrated slide rule bezels or E6B flight computers, and anti-magnetic and shock-resistant constructions to help protect the timekeeping accuracy of the watch. 

While not a universal feature, many pilot’s watches offer water resistance to varying degrees. This is useful for pilots who may encounter wet conditions or work around water bodies during their operations. 

History of Pilot Watches

The history of pilot’s watches dates back to the early days of aviation when reliable timekeeping was crucial for navigation and flight operations. 

According to connoisseurs, the story begins in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his friend Louis Cartier to design a watch specifically for his aviation needs. 

The innovative Cartier came up with a wristwatch that featured a square case with the unmistakable sapphire cabochon crown, a large dial with Roman numerals, and a simple design. 

The World War began in 1914 and ushered in major changes in aviation. The demands of military aviation during World War I led to the development of dedicated pilot’s watches. The British Royal Flying Corps issued watches to their pilots featuring large, easily readable dials and robust construction. 

The growth in pilot watches escalated, and during the 1930s and World War II, German watchmakers such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Stowa produced pilot watches known as “Fliegeruhren.” Alongside timekeeping, pilots required watches with additional features for navigation. Chronographs, which included stopwatch functionality, became popular among aviators. 

Brands like Breitling and Longines produced chronograph watches with various scales and additional subdials for measuring elapsed time, calculating distances, and performing other calculations.

Today, pilot’s watches continue to be extremely popular not only among pilots but also among watch collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate their functionality, aesthetics, and historical significance.

The Best Pilot Watches

Seiko Pilot Chronograph SNN241

Seiko’s contribution to the aviation industry has been relatively minor; however, not including a watch from the Japanese giant watchmaker would be a transgression. There may not be tons of dedicated pilot watches from the brand, but the SNN241 meets and exceeds the criteria for an aviation watch. 

Behold one of the best watches available in the sub-$150 price range! If you’re a fan of classic pilot watches and looking for a no-nonsense watch with suitable military vibes, look no further.

Seiko offers this solid, value-priced chronograph that is large and easy to read in a 42.6 mm stainless case with a thickness of 11 mm. The tactical watch has a clean brown dial with contrasting white numerals and indices, offering excellent readability. 

There are minute markers around the outer rim of the dial, and the watch also has two sub-dials for measuring chronograph functions and a date window at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the Seiko Caliber 7T94 and is worn on a comfortable contrast-stitched leather band with buckle closure.

AVI-8 Timepieces Gutersloh (ref. AV-4088-22)

AVI-8 was founded in 2012 by a combination of pilots, watchmakers, and engineers. The watch brand is known for its unique and functional design, which draws inspiration from aircraft and aviation history. 

At about $160, the Gutersloh Ref. AV-4088-22 is a stunning, straightforward timepiece that pays tribute to Britain’s distinguished military aviators who gave their lives for a worthy cause during WWII. It is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 43mm across and is 12mm thick. 

The dial features an army-blue color which is a distinct addition that stands out from the majority of pilot watches with black or blue faces. The design elements are inspired by the aircraft’s cockpit instruments and aesthetics, so you will find two recessed subdials at 9′ and 3′, enclosed by cockpit instrument-style frames. 

There is a highly legible dial with bold applied Arabic and baton indexes, all coated with Swiss lume on a matte canvas. There’s also a date window at 6 o’clock and an additional orange-colored hour hand to indicate time in a different time zone. 

Orient Pilot’s Sports Watch (ref. RA-AC0H04Y)

Orient has a timepiece for everyone. From elegant dress watches to rugged divers and, of course, pilot’s watches, the brand is getting increasingly popular in the watch community. At $200, the Ref. RA-AC0H04Y is an effortlessly functional pilot’s watch that offers exceptional value for money. 

The 42.4mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The layout of the beige dial emphasizes easy readability and a tool-like feel. The dial has a large minute ring on the perimeter with a distinctive black print. 

There is a date display located at the third hour, and the face of the watch is protected by a mineral crystal. The watch is worn on a stylish all-occasion brown leather strap with contrasting light stitching. It is powered by the Orient caliber F6722, an in-house self-winding automatic movement with 22 jewels and a power reserve of 40 hours.

Citizen Chandler Pilot Chronograph (ref. CA0621-05L)

Citizen is an absolutely legendary watch manufacturer that has been around for over 100 years. Known for its high-quality, technical and affordable timepieces, the Japanese watch company is respected for adding eco-mindfulness as a core value. 

Since it launched its first light-powered timepiece with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thousands of exceptional watches with outstanding build quality and innovative technology have followed.

The Pilot Chronograph Ref. CA0621-05L is a reasonably priced aviation watch that stays true to original pilot watches used during World War II. The stainless steel case is relatively large at 42mm in diameter and features flat protruding lugs, which will make it feel a bit bigger than it is.

With 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, this timepiece can be worn comfortably in the air, at ground level, and underwater for activities like swimming. The iris blue dial has a lot of information but is highly legible and uncluttered. The watch features Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, which works by running off light as its power source and retails for $230.

Citizen Promaster Altichron (ref. BN5058-07E)

Honoring the world of pilots and aviation is the Promaster Altichron Ref. BN5058-07E. Many pilot watches are purely technical, and only a few standout pieces can combine technicality with pure aesthetics as this one does.

Encased within a 47 x 11mm stainless steel case with prominent pushers and crown, the Altichron over delivers the attributes required for a top-notch aviation watch. First off, the titanium bezel features a compass ring, and on the inside, you’ll find an altimeter, which measures altitude. 

The dial is pretty busy, no doubt, but this is a function-packed watch that was designed to work well up to 32,000ft above sea level. Plus, it has a water-resistant rating of 200 meters. Talk about cool!!

On the black dial with red accents, one finds large SuperLuminova-coated Arabic numerals, large sword-shaped hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Altogether, the watch is all about functionality and readability. Like most watches from Citizen, the Ref. BN5058-07E is powered by the brand’s Eco-drive solar movement. It retails for $595 and comes fitted with a black rubber strap.

Laco Augsburg 42 (ref. 861688.2)

Headquartered in the southwestern German town of Pforzheim, Laco is generally regarded as the originator of the German Pilot Watch. The brand, which was founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel, has been an established part of the German luxury watch scene since the 1920s.

Inspired by pilot’s and deck watches from the 1930s, the Augsburg 42 Ref. 861688.2 is a robust aviator watch presented in a sleek brushed 42mm case with a solid screw-down crown. The dial is pretty straightforward with a simple matte black finish. It is adorned with rectangular minute indices and Arabic numerals for marking the hours.

The hands and indices are legible even in low light thanks to ample punchy-green lume. Protecting this dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. It retails for $420 on the brand’s website and comes fitted with a brown calfskin leather strap.

Seiko Flightmaster SNA411

Imagine trying to navigate a mountain range in a blizzard without a reliable watch. From long-haul flights to snorkeling trips, the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is the ultimate adventurer’s watch. 

Whether you’re a pilot or aviation enthusiast searching for an accurate, sturdy, reliable, and affordable watch that looks good, too, this military-grade and rugged timepiece is your best bet. The Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is an impressive chronograph watch presented in a finely brushed case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 13mm.

The stainless steel case is matched with a 20mm wide bracelet that flawlessly combines polished and brushed finishes. It also has three sub-dials for compass, stopwatch, and alarm, which makes the dial pretty interesting to stare at. The quartz-powered watch has been discontinued but is readily available in the secondary market for around $480

Atmoss SR-01 Everyday Pilots Watch

Based in Brisbane, Australia, Atmoss is a relatively new kid in the vast world of watchmaking, but it is in no wise the least! If you want a sleek pilot’s watch that combines next-level durability with avant-garde technology, this is your best pick. 

What better person to construct a pilot’s watch than a man with a history of flying low-tech planes himself? I’m talking about Warrick Bettany, the man behind Atmoss Watches. The innovator has been pretty busy rolling off some of the best aviation watches that preserve the old-school tradition of getting things done analogically. 

First things first, the case of the Everyday Pilots Watch has a diameter of 41mm, a thickness of 10.5mm, and a lug-to-lug of 48.5mm. The functionality of the watch begins with the two matching logarithmic scales or slide rules — one on the bezel and one on the chapter ring on the outer perimeter of the dial. 

The pure aesthetics of the white dial with blue and red accents add a touch of aviation-inspired romance. Keeping the price of this elegant watch down to $480 is a solid movement; the Japanese Miyota 9039 with a modest 42-hour power reserve. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters and is worn on a metal bracelet or FKM rubber strap.

Bulova Pilot A-15 (ref. 96A245)

If you’re looking for a graceful aviator’s watch with a timeless design and thick feel, the Pilot A-15 Ref. 96A245 comes highly recommended. On request from the US Army Air Force Air Technical Service Command, the original A-15 was initially designed in 1943 to solve very critical flight-related problems for pilots at the time. Unfortunately, the watch never made it out of the testing phase for some reason or another. 

The project was thus suspended, but 76 years later, Bulova deemed it necessary to release the watch to the general public. The Ref. 96A245 is a reinterpretation of the A-15 “Elapsed Time Watch” and is presented in a 42mm stainless steel case with narrow lugs and three crowns at the 2, 3, and 4 o’clock positions. The crown at 2 rotates the internal bezel measuring elapsed time, while the four o’clock crown controls a second-time zone or elapsed hours.

The dial might seem a bit complex at first glance since it features about four concentric rings, but everything is neatly arranged and harmonious. The watch is powered by the Miyota 82S6 movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve. It is worn on a brown leather strap and retails for about $650.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (ref. H76522131)

Hamilton is an American watchmaker, now owned by Swatch Group. The brand has been an iconic name in the field of military and aviation-inspired timepieces with a long tradition of delivering quality and precise ‘trench’ watches. In 1994, Hamilton was named the official wristwatch supplier for the American Armed Forces. The former glory the Swiss watchmaker had has been revived in the Khaki Aviation collection today.

Modeled after some of the famous pilot’s chronographs produced by Hamilton for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s, the Ref. H76522131 is a watch that captures the daring spirit of a pilot like no other. The case is made of stainless steel and has a large notched crown flanked by two pump pushers. 

It measures 41mm across with a thickness of 12.47mm, so it’s a no-nonsense watch that is slightly cumbersome. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible, with luminous markers and a bi-compax display. It has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters, and the dial is well protected with a sapphire crystal, so you can trust this watch to accompany you on your daily missions. It is powered by a quartz movement and retails for about $750.

Yema Flygraf Pilot M2 (ref. YFLY2020-CAS)

Yema is a French watch brand that is seriously underrated for one simple reason; it does not have the words ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial of its watches. This is very disheartening as the France-based company has consistently demonstrated remarkable mastery in watchmaking since its founding in the 1940s.

The Flygraf collection turns timekeeping into a worthy expedition for those interested in utilitarian watches for the outdoors. All the models in this collection are designed and constructed by brand and professional aerobatic pilot Sammy Mason.

With a vintage-inspired design arising out of military field watches from the Second World War, the focus is obviously on aviation themes. The Ref. YFLY2020-CAS is a watch with a clear spirit of adventure and comes in a brushed 316L stainless steel case that measures 39mm across. A sapphire crystal protects the matte gray dial, adorned by Arabic numerals and indexes, all treated with Superluminova BGW9. 

The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, so you can confidently take command of both sky and sea! It retails for about $750 and is powered by the YEMA2000 in-house caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Farer Morgan Pilot Watch

British watch brand Farer was established in 2015 with one simple goal; to make affordable automatic watches for all. If you’re looking for an affordable purpose-driven timepiece befitting a fighter pilot, the Morgan Pilot Watch is just the watch you need. 

Farer might not be a name you hear quite often, but the fast-growing brand is capturing millions of enthusiasts around the globe thanks to its superlative build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics. The aviation-inspired watch comes in a highly polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.5mm in diameter with a height of 12.5mm (including domed sapphire crystal). 

The matte black dial has two rings for speedy reading, with outer minute markings and the hours on the inside. Farer is known for combining bold colors and contrasting textures beautifully. The Pilot Watch has hour/minute alpha-styled hour and minute hands outlined in Royal blue, while the sweeping second hand tip is finished in beacon red.

Encased in a soft-iron Faraday cage is the SW200-1 caliber. It is an anti-magnetic automatic movement that delivers up to eight times the standard level of anti-magnetic protection. The watch is fitted with an over-stitched American Horween leather strap and retails for approximately $990.

Vaer A12 Dirty Dozen

Founded in 2016 by Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, Vaer is a watch brand that does everything right. The California-based watchmaker has a strong reputation for producing high-quality tool watches with impressive design elements. Dirty Dozen is a group of legendary watches made within the last two years of World War II. 

Twelve watch manufacturers were tasked with supplying these military watches for the British Army hence the name. Vaer decided to pay homage to this military timekeeping icon by releasing this functional, attractive, and utilitarian watch. 

Encased in a sleek 36mm 316L stainless steel case dominated by brushed surfaces, the A12 Dirty Dozen is an everyday utility watch designed to not be too cumbersome or clunky on your wrist. With a tightly sealed case back and large screw-down crown design that maintains an airtight seal, a water resistance rating of 100 meters is guaranteed.

The watch is incredibly slim and comfortable on the wrist, boasting a thickness of about 10 mm. According to the brand, the dial features up to 25 layers of SuperLuminova, with a lume performance rating of 8/10. The watch retails for $899 and is powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW260-1 automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76205530)

Stand by for take-off with Hamilton’s versatile companion. This one is a true pilot’s watch for adventurers and explorers seeking a timepiece with great accuracy.

The Ref. H76205530 draws inspiration from the Model 23, a cutting-edge pocket navigational chronograph pocket watch made for the US Army Air Forces during WWII. The watch is presented in a 38mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.4mm and a lug width of 18mm. 

As you’d expect from a military reissue, the dial is ultra-legible numerals with Arabic numerals, cathedral-styled hands, and a railway track outer scale. The face of the watch has a sandpaper-like finish that gives the timepiece a luxurious touch. It is protected by the highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and matched with a calf leather strap. 

On the inside, you’ll find Hamilton’s caliber H-10 with a 3Hz beat rate and a remarkable power reserve of 80 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 100 meters and retails for about $1000.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (ref. H77785733)

The Khaki Aviation X-Wind (please do not say ‘ex-wind’, it’s pronounced ‘crosswind’) is probably the first drift-angle calculating timepiece. If you’re just a watch enthusiast like me, you’ll probably not care so much about this function. However, the crosswind feature is useful for pilots as it enables them to accurately calculate and record crosswind components with the internal rotating bezel.

The Ref. H77785733 comes in a PVD-coated stainless steel case that has a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 12.8mm, so yeah, this is not for the faint-hearted. The dial has a lot going on, but there’s a harmonious symmetry interplaying between all the components. Bold Arabic numerals in white generously coated with Super-LumiNova make time reading seamless even in the dark. 

The sword hands and day-date window at 9 o’clock also keep the dial looking pretty cool and balanced. The entire watch has a black glossy appearance and comes with prominent crowns on both sides. The X-Wind Day Date Auto is powered by Hamilton’s caliber H-30 with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It retails for $1,335 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

Stowa Flieger Classic Sport 43mm

German luxury watchmaker Stowa has been on fire lately. If you’re looking for a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, this is the one. Since 1937, the brand has been producing classic watches in the style of Bauhaus. Flieger or B-Uhren watches were specially designed for German armed forces (the Deutsche Luftwaffe) tasked with air defense.

The watches were designed to be the most legible timepieces on earth while offering top-notch robustness and accuracy at the same time. Luckily for you, a fat wallet or giant’s wrist isn’t a prerequisite to secure the look and feel of a Flieger, as Stowa presents a faithful interpretation of the B-Uhren watches for about $1,500. The sports watch is encased in an excellently finished 43 mm stainless steel case with a height of 12.8 mm. 

With a water resistance of 200 meters, you can confidently take this watch straight from the skies to the oceans. The breathtaking matte black dial is flawlessly executed and decked with temperature-blued steel hands with a generous coating of C3 Super Lumi-Nova. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW215-1 mechanical movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76746140)

Hamilton has contributed a great deal to the aviation sector by creating precision watches for professional pilots for over a century. Between 1965 and 1976, the brand manufactured almost 40,000 wristwatches for the British military. When I think of Hamilton, my mind immediately jumps to the robust instruments for professionals, such as the X-Wind timepieces supplied to air racers.

The Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono continues the brand’s history of serving the flying community well and is just the watch you need to keep up with your inexhaustible lust for aeronautical adventure. The stainless steel case measures 44mm across and has a thickness of 14.6mm, so now you can have a look-good watch peeking out from under your dress shirt.

The most notable feature of this watch is the slide rule bezel, also known as the “logarithmic bezel”. This feature was a crucial tool for pilots who needed to perform basic calculations involving multiplications, divisions, exponents, roots, or logarithms.

The Converter bears the spirit of those instrument watches from the 1940s but adds a good dose of futuristic aesthetics, as can be seen in its gorgeous blue dial that evokes visions of clear skies. It retails for $2,300 and comes equipped with the H-21-Si movement with silicone hairsprings for increased performance and accuracy.

Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot GMT (ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC)

The Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot was first released during the early decades of aviation, one year before World War ll began. Since the second world war was mostly fought in the air, the demand for pilots’ watches skyrocketed, and Oris, founded about 30 years prior, stepped up to the challenge.

The watch was a flight instrument with a highly legible dial, robust movement with accurate timing, and a large crown of about 8mm to aid operation with gloves on. The Ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC bears the iconic design elements that distinguished the first Big Crown Pro Pilot.

It comes in a 45mm case equipped with a screw-down crown (100 meters) and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating inside. The lug width is 22mm, and the watch is matched with a comfortable olive textile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.

The black dial features a GMT function that allows the wearer to track time in two different time zones simultaneously. It also has a subsidiary dial for the seconds at 9 o’clock and large Arabic numerals and hands coated with Superluminova BG W9. A see-through mineral glass caseback reveals the Oris 748 caliber, which is based on the SW 220-1. This automatic movement has 28 jewels, beats at a rate of 28’800 vph, and provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Enjoy this Swiss-made luxury for $2,500.

Sinn 144 St Sa Chronograph (ref. 144.066)

To not include a watch from German watchmaker Sinn would be a sin (sorry too tempting). Not only have pilot watches been part of the Sinn’s repertoire for over five decades, but the brand was also founded in 1961 by flight instructor and pilot Helmut Sinn!

The luxury watchmaker is renowned across the globe for making expert pilot’s watches that can withstand the harshest and most extreme conditions in the skies, on land, and deep in the ocean. It’s not just the day-date display and chronograph function that sets it apart.

This watch is equipped with a unique Ar-Dehumidifying Technology and lubricant-free anchor escapement that enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging. The 41mm x 14.2 stainless steel case is topped with sapphire crystal glass in front and a transparent case back, also made of sapphire crystal.

The killer watch comes with a waterproof and pressure-resistant rating of 200 meters and combines a tachymeter and pulsometer scale instead of a rotatable bezel. A new 144 St Sa Chronograph on a leather or silicone strap costs around $2,400, while one on a stainless steel bracelet demands around $2,600.

Junghans Meister Pilot (ref. 27/3794.00)

Find yourself a more enchanting pilot’s watch; I’ll wait. German brand Junghans has been creating durable mechanical cockpit clocks since the early 20th century. If you are a hardcore adventurist seeking a reliable and elegant pilot’s watch to help you keep your eye on the prize, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is your best bet.

The Meister line is the top dog of the brand’s offerings, and though it was initially lined up with dress watches, the brand decided to ditch the status quo with some welcome additions. Pulling inspiration from control panel instruments that the Junghans manufactured for airplanes and airships in the 1930s, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is a classic mechanical pilot’s watch with a unique twist. 

The watch is accurate, reliable, and extremely functional, with a beautifully sculpted case measuring 43.3mm in diameter and 14.4mm. The stainless steel case is DLC coated with scalloped grooves on the side and a bi-directional turning bezel. The brown-gray lacquered dial is highly legible and is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The watch is powered by the J880.4 movement with 38 hours of power reserve and retails for approximately $2,800.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Auto Chrono (ref. H76786733)

This is a pilot watch that embodies everything precision. It boasts of a legacy that spans over a century and comes in collaboration with Air Zermatt. The watch functions as a wrist-, cockpit-, and table watch. 

Having a touch of exclusivity it is limited to only 1,999 pieces, it features a bi-directional turning flange for convenient countdown recording. The watch comes with a black dial housed within a stainless steel case with PVD black coating with a measurement of 46mm. 

It is powered by an H-31 automatic movement and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ensures durability, while the black calf leather strap is fastened by a pin buckle. The watch is pegged at $3,295.00, as it exemplifies the perfect fusion of functionality and craftsmanship.

TAG Heuer Autavia (ref. WBE5116.FC8266)

This is a vintage-inspired luxury chronograph watch that combines a retro flair with advanced technology, creating a truly remarkable accessory. It comes with a 42mm steel case and a gradient smoked blue dial.

The watch houses the Caliber 5 movement which ensures impeccable accuracy. Its brown calfskin strap pays homage to the brand’s aviation heritage, while the bidirectional turning bezel, made from ceramic, adds a modern touch to the classic design.

The TAG Heuer Autavia has an “orange peel” texture, complemented by Super-LumiNova-treated silver-toned numerals and hands. When you flip the watch over, you’ll see the iconic engraving of an airplane propeller inside a steering wheel. The TAG Heuer Autavia is a complete leather strap timepiece priced at $3,500. The watch is considered the perfect blend of heritage and performance

Longines Avigation Type A-7 (ref. L2.812.4.53.2)

The Longines Company is rooted in the watchmaking tradition. It’s no surprise they crafted the Longines Avigation Type A-7, as a testament to their commitment to excellence. The watch commands instant attention with its seamless elegance.

Measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.10mm in thickness, the stainless steel watch showcases a black dial adorned with silvered polished hands. The timepiece is powered by automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

The Ref. L2.812.4.53.2 was designed with great attention to detail such that its brown alligator leather strap with white stitching adds a touch of warmth and refinement. Additionally, it comes with a steel triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism. At $4,570, this charming watch offers you the perfect blend of heritage and technology to command the skies.

Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 (ref. A17315101B1A1)

The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 is a pretty cool watch that would make an excellent choice for fashion-conscious adventurers.

The Ref. A17315101B1A1 comes in a sleek 41mm case that has been finished to the highest sheen. The dial is enchanting with its luminous-filled hands and Arabic numeral hour markers to ensure easy readability. 

It is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement. Additionally, it offers precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet that has a folding clasp and a safety latch. Expect to shell out approximately $3,150 for a new piece.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph (ref. MB117836)

The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph is a masterpiece pilot’s watch renowned for anyone looking for an enduring companion. The watch demonstrates Montblanc’s commitment to tradition and storytelling.

The Ref. MB117836 has a 42mm case with a satin finish that strikes the right balance between retro and futuristic aesthetics. The black dial has a bi-compass counter at 3 and 9 o’clock, which exudes contemporary allure but also evokes a warm vintage charm.

The watch comes with bi-pushers for seamless activation of the chronograph, while its automatic, self-winding MB 25.11 movement ensures precision. It is water-resistant up to 100 meters and is mounted on a beige leather strap. If you wish to own this timepiece, you should be ready to part away with at least $5,400.

Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT (ref. F4260000)

Fortis is a brand that has a legacy rooted in space exploration. The independent Swiss watchmaker has accompanied astronauts to achieve horological milestones for nearly a century. As early as 1994, the brand was selected to supply precision watches for the Russian space program ROSCOSMOS.

The Ref. F4260000 is crafted for pilots and comes with a titanium case and bracelet, housing a Swiss mechanical movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Its GMT function allows for tracking a second-time zone, while its COSC certification ensures time accuracy. 

The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the markers and handset are lumed to enhance legibility. The watch comes with a 43mm case diameter and is considered a robust timepiece fit for any adventure. 

Get ready to embrace the spirit of exploration with the reliable, durable, and fortified Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT. The watch can be gotten from the brand’s website for $5,507

Longines Spirit Flyback (ref. L3.821.4.53.6) 

This pilot watch is a timepiece that embodies the adventurous spirit of the Longines brand. Boasting a rich heritage of legendary pioneers in their conquest of air, land, and sea, the brand drew inspiration from its remarkable history to birth the Longines Spirit Flyback.

The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case, a bi-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The sunray dial is adorned with applied Arabic numerals and PVD bronze-colored hands, all illuminated by Swiss Super-LumiNova. 

A transparent sapphire crystal offers a breathtaking view of the automatic Caliber L791. The movement boasts a monocrystalline silicon balance spring with a power reserve of up to 68 hours. The watch is available for around $4,500.

Bremont Martin-Baker MBII

In collaboration with Martin-Baker, a renowned British aviation company, Bremont flexes its muscles in horological expertise with this exceptional timepiece. The MBII is a symbol of resilience and was designed to withstand rigorous testing, including Live Ejection Testing and Extreme Temperature Endurance.

Its contemporary design features sleek numerals and a bronze-colored ‘military challenge coin’ on the case back, representing camaraderie and service. It is powered by a modified caliber 11 1/2″ BE-36AE automatic chronometer movement that keeps it precise and dependable. 

It features a 43mm hardened stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The contemporary dial has a clean look with Super-LumiNova coated indexes and hands that ensure clear visibility. It is further protected by a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal that provides durability. Prices begin at $5,470.

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

The Mark XX is regarded as a perfect fusion of heritage and innovation. IWC is a renowned luxury watch brand established in 1868 that has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. The Ref. IW328201 is a testament to the luxury brand’s legacy.

It has a sleek 40mm stainless steel case and a captivating black dial; this watch exudes understated elegance with luminous hands and markers that ensure easy readability in any lighting. The watch is powered by the in-house IWC caliber 3211, a highly accurate and robust movement that boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve. 

It comes with a black leather strap which adds a touch of versatility, but no, it’s not a dress watch. You can purchase it for $6,050 from the brand’s website. 

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter (ref. BR0394-SW-CE/SRB)

Bell & Ross is a luxury watch brand renowned for its instrument watches designed for professionals. Inspired by aeronautical tools, the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is a timepiece that seamlessly blends functionality and style.

Limited to just 500 pieces, this watch showcases the power of the chronograph complication in the world of sports. It comes with the iconic “circle within a square” design, just like the emblematic cockpit clocks from the 1930s.

The matte black ceramic case measures 42mm in diameter and is 12.8mm thick, making it perfect for daily use. It has a captivating multicolor dial coupled with a sophisticated chronograph, which provides athletes with vital information during their physical activities.

The watch is crafted with precision and boasts double-weighted hands for optimal readability and two additional dial counters for enhanced functionality. Additionally, its water resistance threshold is up to 100 meters and will set you back $5,800 at the retail store.

Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 (ref. AB01821A1C1X1)

If you’re daring and resilient, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 by Breitling is for you. Its robust 45mm stainless steel case, striking blue dial, and a choice of stainless steel bracelet or military leather strap qualify this timepiece as a symbol of strength. The watch was designed for adventurers who crave adrenaline. 

Additionally, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 comes with a rugged bezel and glove-friendly grip pattern on the crown and pushers. It has a self-winding mechanical movement, the Breitling 01 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve capacity. 

The watch’s chronograph function, luminous numerals, and a water resistance of 300 meters add to its value. It measures 45mm in diameter and 15.7mm in thickness; the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 is the perfect companion for the classic man. This limited edition timepiece can be yours for $7,500 and is considered an investment in both style and adventure.

Zenith Pilot Automatic (ref. 03.4000.3620/21.I001)

ZENITH is reputed for its pursuit of precision and exploration. Little wonder they introduced a timepiece that invites you to soar through the open skies. It comes with a 40mm steel case and an oversized crown, blending the brand’s aviation heritage with a contemporary touch. The black dial is adorned with luminous Arabic numerals and guides you through the dark with clarity. 

The watch comes with interchangeable black Cordura-affect rubber and brown calfskin leather straps, giving you the flexibility to personalize your style effortlessly. The watch is powered by the El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency manufacture movement with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The Zenith Pilot Automatic watch is priced at $7,500.

Cartier Santos Large (ref. WSSA0018)

Inspired by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos Ref.WSSA0018 embodies the spirit of adventure and impeccable craftsmanship. The watch comes with a stainless steel case that measures 39.8 mm in diameter and 9.08 mm in thickness. The Santos showcases a silver-opaline dial adorned with Roman numeral hour markers and sword-shaped hands. 

It is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 1847 MC, which offers precise timekeeping with 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve capacity. The watch has a steel bracelet with the “SmartLink” adjustment system for a personalized fit. The Ref.WSSA0018 also includes an interchangeable calfskin strap. You can indulge in the luxurious lifestyle of those who own a Santos watch by shelling out $9,400.

Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition (ref. AB0910371B1X1)

Behold the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, a watch that honors its iconic ancestor with an unwavering commitment to detail. Breitling is a brand celebrated globally for its outstanding contribution to the aviation sector. In the 1930s, the Swiss Marque produced an aviator chronograph that helped pilots calculate elapsed time.

The brand here resurrects the essence of the original Navitimer from 1959 with a narrative of historic elegance. When you cop this watch, you get for yourself a 41mm stainless steel case, which mirrors the dimensions of its vintage muse with a height of 12.9mm. An alluring all-black dial reigns supreme with tone-on-tone small second, 30-minute, and 12-hour chronograph counters.

The Ref. 806 1959 is shielded by a gracefully domed Plexiglas and is powered by the COSC-certified hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09. The robust movement exudes accuracy and reliability while boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. The watch is secured by a sleek black leather strap and is priced at $9,050.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

After 70 years of captivating hearts, the Navitimer returns with a touch of modernity. Featuring a sleek profile, a domed crystal, and a lustrous interplay of polished and brushed metal elements, the B01 Chronograph 43 defines the collection’s renewed allure.

The dial shines in a captivating shade of black while the cherished AOPA wings once again grace the 12 o’clock position. It is encased in 43mm stainless steel and is powered by the reliable Breitling B01 movement. This self-winding mechanical wonder boasts a remarkable 70-hour power reserve capacity.

With its bidirectional slide rule, 1/4th-second chronograph, and water resistance of up to 3 bars, the Navitimer is ready for any adventure. You can embrace its legacy and its spirit of flight for $9,700.

IWC Big Pilot 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire is a timepiece that combines military heritage with contemporary style. IWC is known for its history of crafting watches for military pilots since the 1930s and has created remarkable watches inspired by its iconic designs.

The Ref. IW329701 comes in a durable titanium case that measures 43mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height. Its sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters ensure its resilience. Powered by the Caliber 82100 movement, this watch offers precise timekeeping with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour. 

The legible dial pays homage to its military roots, while the brown calfskin strap adds a touch of elegance. Embrace the spirit of adventure with the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire for $8,950. 

Rolex Air King (ref. 126900) 

With a 40mm Oystersteel case and a sleek black dial, the Air King Ref. 126900 flawlessly combines aeronautical heritage with modern elegance. The dial features navigational time readings, large numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the iconic Air-King lettering from the 1950s. 

Crafted with corrosion-resistant Oystersteel, the watch is built to last and features an Oyster bracelet for durability and comfort. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Caliber 3230, the Air-King provides precise timekeeping with a 70-hour power reserve. 

Its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters means you can take this beauty straight from the skies to the oceans. The highly legible Chromalight display shines with long-lasting blue luminescence, so this watch can be easily worn in a variety of scenarios. The luxury chronometer-certified watch is priced at $10,130.

Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang (ref. AB04453A1B1A1)

Breitling’s history is intertwined with the world of aviation. The Super AVI P-51 Mustang is inspired by a famed aircraft built by the North American Aviation Department in the 1940s.

The watch features a rugged 46mm case with an oversized crown and knurled bezel for optimal grip, even with gloved hands. Its dial features large Arabic numerals for excellent legibility, while the 24-hour marking on the inner bezel and the red-tipped GMT hand enables effortless tracking of a second-time zone.

Offering an impressive power reserve of 70 hours is the COSC-certified in-house movement, the Caliber B04. It is fitted with a stainless-steel bracelet and retails for $11,100.

IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)

The Big Pilot Ref. IW501001 is a contemporary Illustration of the antique “B-Uhr” used by German pilots during WWII. The luxury watch is crafted in a round, entirely brushed stainless steel case with an oversized onion-shaped crown engraved with the IWC logo at 3′.

The watch’s face has a black metallic sunburst appearance that serves as a high-contrast background for the printing of the Arabic numerals, minutes track, and calendar indication. The mechanical self-winding 52110 movement with 31 jewels offered an impressive 7-day power reserve. 

The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap and a tang buckle, ensuring both comfort and durability. You can get the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW501001 for $10,965 from the brand’s website.

IWC Pilot Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)

Perfect for frequent fliers, the Timezoner Chronograph Ref. IW395001 pays homage to the early days of aviation when pilots relied on their watches for navigation and timing. With a 45mm stainless steel case and a black embossed leather strap, this watch is perfect for fashion-conscious aviator enthusiasts. 

The black dial features Arabic numeral hour markers and luminescent hands, while the 89760 automatic movement provides reliable precision with a 68-hour power reserve. With functions such as GMT, a second-time zone function, and a date display, this timepiece is tailored to meet the needs of pilots and international travelers. The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the watch is priced at $11,900.

Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02-12B40-63B)

Famous for creating one of the most complicated mechanical watches on earth (the Blancpain 1735), Blancpain is a major player in the aviation watch market. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer supplied American military pilots with tactical watches in the 1950s, and the Air Command was an official military aviation watch with the Colombian Air Force.

The legendary aviation watch is reborn in the Ref. AC02-12B40-63B; a watch that ticks all the right boxes. Sophisticated aesthetics? Check. Superlative functionality? Tick. Legendary history and authenticity? Yup. Legibility and military vintage allure? Overdose!

At 42.5 mm x 13. 7 mm, the case of the watch is bulky for sure, but that’s the point. Every adventurer needs an eye-catching watch with a good measure of masculine impact. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and mesmerizing, with a 30-minute counter in a subdial at three o’clock and a 12-hour counter situated at nine o’clock. Expect to pay around $20,000 for a new Air Command Ref. AC02-12B40-63B with a blue leather strap. 

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)

Since the dawn of aviation watches, right up to today, IWC has built a solid collection of some of the best pilot watches in the world. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer influenced the cockpit-instrument look of classic pilot’s watches during the 1930s, at least as far as aesthetics are concerned.

The Big Pilot collection is the brand’s flagship model with a diverse range of exceptional luxury pilot timepieces. The Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW503605 is a fashionable and functional timepiece with a stainless steel case that follows the Big Pilot’s Watch formula. 

It is big at 46.2 x 15.4 mm, so again, we have a big watch that evokes a real appeal and makes you stand out from the crowd. Everything about this watch screams superlative quality. From the deeply knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown to the dark blue metallic sunburst dial, we are sold.

Command the skies with this enchanting pilot’s watch, which will integrate beautifully with business or casual attire and add a transcendent edge to any outfit. The watch is powered by IWC’s in-house caliber 52615 with 7 days or 168 hours of power reserve. It retails for $39,000.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)

What would a list of the best pilot watches be without the Historiques American 1921? Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, with an uninterrupted history of creating high-end watches since its foundation in 1755.

The Genevan brand created some supremely elegant timepieces for the American market in the 1920s, and the Ref. 82035/000R-9359 follows the spirit of the original very closely. The eccentric watch has a pink gold cushion-shaped case that measures 40 x 40 mm with a crown at the top right corner of the case. 

The striking piece has a diagonal time display with Breguet-style hands and black-painted Arabic numerals that allows you to read the time without needing to turn your wrist. The brass dial is excellently executed with a railway dial train and a small seconds between 3 and 4 o’clock.

Visible through the transparent sapphire glass case back is the prominent Calibre 4400 AS with a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is equipped with a half-matte dark brown alligator strap and retails for approximately $49,000.

Richard Mille RM 39-01 Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Aviation

Richard Mille is a brand that takes watchmaking beyond the 21st century with its technical wizardry. Famous for creating some of the world’s most complicated and idiosyncratic timepieces, the Swiss luxury watch company is one of the greatest Haute Horology players in the world. 

The brand is also known to release technically-complicated racing machines for the wrist, so it’s no surprise that the Ref. RM 39-01 displays highly technical and extremely sophisticated features. Designed as a flight navigation instrument, the watch is encased in 50mm of titanium and is mounted on a black rubber strap. 

The skeletonized dial is both stunning and sophisticated and houses different complications. The watch features a flyback chronograph, E6-B slide rule function, GMT/UTC function, and a semi-instantaneous date display below 12 o’clock.

Revealed through the porthole in the back is the grade 5 titanium RMAC2 caliber with its 55 hours of power reserve. At the time of writing this article, the watch is priced at $165,000, so yes, it was made solely for top collectors, but what harm is there in dreaming? 

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Travel Time (ref. 5520P-001)

Founded all the way back in 1839, Patek Philippe is famous for creating some of the most highly coveted watches in the world. The prestigious luxury watchmaker has a history of horological brilliance for almost 200 years with a small (yet significant) contribution to aviation history.

The Ref. 5520P-001 is a decidedly masculine timepiece that reignites the doused flames of the brand’s Pilot range with a superlative technical appeal and elegance. The case of the watch is crafted from platinum, one most precious of the noble metals, and has a diameter of 42.2 mm with a height of 11.57 mm. 

The design of the case seems overwhelming, with a crown at 4 o’clock and three additional pushers, but everything is symmetrical and well-balanced. The watch has a time-zone function that is especially useful in air travel, with a 24-hour alarm mechanism and a hammer that strikes on a classic gong. 

It is powered by the self-winding caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, a movement comprised of 574 parts. The watch is worn on a matte black calfskin strap and retails for approximately $220,000. 

Conclusion

Pilot watches will always hold a special place in the hearts of professional aviators and aviation enthusiasts alike. 

Not only because they take us back to the fascinating years of the past but also because they are a critical tool in a class of their own that will forever remain relevant.

The addition of gold to ornaments has always increased their value; this is not just because of how much they are worth but because of the potential they have. They are also resistant to many substances like chemicals, heat, air, and water, which makes them a great addition to watches because of the conditions we put them through when we have them on. 

Trends and fashion seem to come and go, but the era of the two-tone watch does not seem to be going anywhere soon. Two-tone watches have existed for a very long time, and the debate about which ones are the best to acquire keeps getting more intense by the day.

About Two-Tone Watches

Traditionally, they are watches made with two different metals; the bezel and strap are designed with one metal, while the casing and other parts are designed with a different metal. They mostly come in stainless steel and yellow gold. 

However, some newer ones now come in various shades of gold, bronze, titanium, platinum, and other precious metals, but the most common two-tone watches remain the gold and stainless steel ones.

Advantages and Disadvantages 

The coolest thing about two-tone watches is how eye-catching they are, unlike watches made with just a single metal. They are also found to be more expensive, but sometimes, the market disagrees. For example, regarding retail price, they seem to be more costly, but in the secondary market, it’s often the other way around. 

A good example is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the two-tone of this timepiece sells for a little under $40,000, while the stainless steel sells for about $42,000. This is still a discussion among many collectors as to whether single metal watches are a popular preference or there’s a two-toned discount nobody knows about.

History of Two-Tone Watches

This style of watchmaking started in the early parts of the 20th century as a result of watchmakers trying to develop new designs for their watches. The 1930s and 40s were when two-tone watches became a bit popular, and this was due to the adoption of Art Deco and other materials in the designing of jewelry and other ornaments.

Watch brands like Rolex and OMEGA started offering the two-toned version of some of their watches between the 1950s and 60s. For example, Rolex produced the Datejust model in 1945 and a two-toned version in the 1950s which paved the way for other brands like Patek Philippe, Cartier, and OMEGA to follow suit. 

The 1970s and 80s took a different turn as watchmakers became more creative with their designs. Materials like diamonds, white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, and other precious stones were added to beautify watches more.

As years passed, newer watch brands started incorporating the two-tone watchmaking style and have evolved it to what we can see today. The best of these watches that can be found today will be discussed in the list below. 

The Best Two Tone Watches

1. Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” (ref. 126613LB)

This model of Rolex only comes in the two-toned version and is a 41mm Submariner, just like the previous ones. The beautiful blue dial of this watch has put it among the favorite Rolexes of all time. It’s made up of 18-karat yellow gold and stainless steel on both the bracelet and the casing of the watch.

It has a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, 12.8mm in height, and a lug width of 20mm. The 3235 Rolex automatic movement powers it. The dial has gold-colored text and hands, which match the gold coating around the watch. The price of this watch ranges between $17,000 to $18,000.

2. Cartier Santos Medium Two Tone (ref. CRW2SA0016)

The attention to detail on this timepiece is very impressive. There are many rectangular watches alike, but Cartier tends to differentiate their models from the rest. This timepiece has a case diameter of 35.1mm, a 9.4mm case thickness, and a 41.9mm lug-to-lug distance. 

It is made up of stainless steel and 18 carats of gold on the bezel and bracelet of the watch. It’s an automatic winding watch with an 1847 MC caliber. It is the medium size of the Santos De Cartier watch, and it has a water resistance of 100 meters. This timepiece currently costs $10,300. 

3. Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Two Tone (ref. 5980/1AR)

Patek Phillipe is known for consistently mixing luxury and functionality in their timepieces. This stainless steel 18-karat rose gold watch has a diameter of 40.5mm which gives it a very noticeable presence. It has a thickness of 12.4mm which I would consider a thick watch compared to an average Patek, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51.4mm. 

Patek’s double-deployment clasps on the bracelet make it a perfect fit for big and small wrists. This Nautilus Chronograph has a blue sunburst dial with rose gold hands and indices. The watch is powered by a Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 automatic chronograph movement. This timepiece has a 55-hour power reserve and currently sells for $78,000. 

 4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Two Tone (ref.15450SR.OO.1256SR.01)

This watch combines red gold and stainless steel with a case size of 37mm. It does not carry the thickness of most watches of this standard. It has a 9.8mm thickness and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.8mm. The Royal Oak brand within Audemars Piguet is certainly known for its quality. 

The very solid bracelet and clasp of the model are no different. The screws on the timepiece give it a very secure, unique look, although since the original design took off, many brands seem to try and replicate its success. The watch is completely self-winding, with its Chronograph on display at the bottom part, which adds complexity to its look. 

The dial has a white background with rose gold hands and Indices illuminating at night. It has a water resistance of up to 50 meters and a 3120 calibre built-in house with a 60-hour power reserve. The watch is currently worth $42,750.

 5. Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G (ref. M79833MN-0001)

Most watchmakers find it hard to pull off a watch that looks very good with three or more colors, but Tudor did some magic with the Black Bay GMT S&G. The front of the watch is a mixture of gold, brown, white, and black colors on the dial, bezel, text, and hands. It has a 41mm steel case with a steel and yellow gold bracelet. 

The watch is 14.6mm thick and is crowned by the domed sapphire crystal at the top. It is a self-winding timepiece with an MT5652 caliber movement. It has a water resistance of up to 200m and a power reserve of 70 hours. It is currently worth $5,850, but its price tends to change often. 

6. Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar (ref. U19320161C1U1)

Many collectors dream of this timepiece. The Swiss piece comprises 18 karats of red gold and stainless steel. It is a pretty hefty watch with 239.0 grams of weight and 14.5mm in thickness. It has a ceramic bezel insert with a mixture of red, gold, and white on the digits, text, and dial, giving it a unique look. 

It has a lug-to-lug distance of 53.5mm and a height of 22.0mm. This timepiece has a day, date, month, and moon phase sub-dial and is powered by the Breitling Calibre 19 with 70 hours of power reserve. You can find the watch for around $18,500.

7. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.20.42.20.01.002)

Most single-metal watches, unlike the opposite of two-tone watches, get less attention to their bezels. A two-tone piece has its bezel carefully designed, such as this Omega Seamaster model, which has 18-karat gold and stainless steel built into it. This unidirectional bezel is crafted with black ceramic and has gold numbers and indices on it. 

The timepiece is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8800. The Diver 300M has a diameter of 42mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 49.9mm, and a thickness of 13.6mm. It has scratch-resistant sapphire crystals on both sides with anti-reflective treatments and a beautiful two-tone bracelet made of stainless steel and yellow gold. The watch is sold for $11,700.

8. Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGH252

The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat is a limited edition watch, so there aren’t many to come across. This two-tone timepiece is a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold. It is powered by the Seiko 9S85 high-beat automatic caliber with a 55-hour power reserve. It has a diameter of 40mm, suiting smaller wrists as well, and 13.8mm thickness. 

Its white dial is covered in a stainless steel case, with a gold bezel and gold indices and text. Its stainless steel bracelet is designed with gold in between. This Japanese masterpiece has a water resistance of 100m and currently sells for around $10,000. 

9. Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-10-90-34)

This timepiece was inspired by the Spezimatic RPTS 200, the brand’s first diving watch. It is made of steel and yellow gold with a case diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 47.3mm, and a 12.15mm thickness. It’s considered a unisex watch as it measures not big for feminine wrists. 

It has a screw-down crown with a unidirectional bezel and a ceramic insert. Its blue dial with sunburst decoration on the surface has a date function. The Original SeaQ is powered by an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve and 20-bar water resistance. It has a strap made of synthetic material, and it is currently sold for $12,500.

10. Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400 Two Tone (ref. 01 400 7769 6355-07 4 22 75FC)

Some collectors complain about the combination of the shiny dial and the rubber strap on this timepiece. But it isn’t necessarily a downside since the watch comes with an extra stainless steel bracelet allowing you to change from demanding serious respect to outdoor activity companion.

The timepiece has a 41.5mm diameter, 13.5mm thickness, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48mm. Its sapphire case back gives a good view of the self-winding caliber. This 18-karat gold watch comes in green and blue versions with a very easy strap removal system.

The dial comes in the same color as the straps and has hands and indices that illuminate in the dark. It has a 300-meter water resistance and an impressive 5-day power reserve. The watch has a retail price of $4,700.

11. Longines Hydroconquest Two Tone (ref. L3.781.3.06.7)

This watch was made for men, but the slightly smaller bracelet gives it a unisex look. It has a 41mm case with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and sapphire crystals on the top. 

Its casing and bracelet are both made of stainless steel with a touch of PVD gold coating, the very feature that gives presence to the watchmaking its elegance spike. It has a self-winding L888 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. The Hydroconquest Two Tone can be yours for around $2,000.

12. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Two Tone (ref. WBD2120.BB0930)

The comment you’ll get most wearing this timepiece is how dressy and functional it looks while being a sports watch. Its stainless steel casing with a gold bezel and gold accent running through the middle of the bracelet gives it an elevated look all two-toned models strive for. 

It has a 41mm case with a metallic blue dial that changes color when light hits it from different angles. This watch is 11.90mm thick with a lug-to-lug distance of 50mm. It’s an automatic watch with a 38-hour power reserve, a date function, and indices and hands that glow in the dark. It currently costs $3,600. 

13. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two Tone (ref. 51.3100.3600/69.M3100)

Aside from being a high-beat watch, this timepiece also Carries the historical Zenith El Primero caliber. Its diameter is 41mm with a silver sunray dial with three different dial features, including a 60-minute counter, a 60 seconds counter, and small seconds at 9 o’clock. 

It has a lug-to-lug distance of 46.8mm and a 13.6mm thick watch case. This casing is made out of stainless steel, and 18-carat rose gold. It has a power reserve of up to 60 hours and a 100m water resistance. It is sold for between $14,000 to $17,000.

14. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT Two Tone (ref. ZO9406)

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT has a fourth hand on the dial for tracking a second timezone for frequent travelers. The bezel can also be used to track a third-time zone which makes it a total package for nomad people. It’s an automatic watch with a dome sapphire crystal on the top. 

This two-tone watch has a 40mm diameter, 47.8mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 13.6mm case thickness. It comes in a gold PVD version and a stainless steel version. The Super Sea Wolf GMT has a water resistance of 200m. This watch is currently worth $1,695.

15. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Two Tone (ref. T927.407.46.291.00)

This watch is not as flashy as most on this list, but it’s a well-made watch. It’s powered by the famous and great Swiss-made Powermatic 80 movement with 80 hours of power reserve. It has a case size of 40mm, a 49mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 10.6mm thickness. 

It is cased with stainless steel and an 18-carat rose gold bezel. Its domed sapphire crystal top and see-through case back make a nice show for inquisitive guests. The price of this timepiece ranges between $1,200 to $1,500.

Conclusion

Two-tone watches are often associated with women due to how precious, attention-grabbing, and feminine they look. But many of the most important and influential men on our planet could take great advantage of catching eyes with their shiny wrist companion, and these watches play the role of a good conversation starter outstandingly well. 

At least, they surely call people’s attention with their shiny colors. So if you’ve had your eye on any two-tone watch for a while, consider you’ll be watched with admiration and jealousy when walking around with your new purchase on your wrist before actually pulling the trigger.

Old heads may swear pens are the only thing they know Montblanc excels at. While that’s true for an out-of-touch millennial or Baby Boomer, the reality is the opposite. Once a luxury stationery and leather goods brand, Montblanc inherited over 150 years of watchmaking experience following a smart acquisition of Minerva. 

And like it or not, Montblanc men’s watches hold their own against big players in the industry like Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen, and even Rolex. A close look at their Day Date 40 may make you question splurging over 30k and joining a waitlist for a Rolex alternative if you’re not emphatic about resale. 

So if you’re here to confirm your doubts about Montblanc as a watchmaker, the short answer is you’ll be disappointed. A closer look at Montblanc’s collection reveals a dozen sporty, casual, conceptual, and complicated watches at almost unbeatable prices. 

But first, I’ll hit the ground running with a snippet of how a fountain pen maker became an underappreciated horologist. 

Montblanc Watches: How It Started

The Montblanc legacy started way back in 1906 when August Eberstein developed a range of fountain pens in Berlin, Germany. While they’re currently based in Hamburg, the German brand is a part of the Swiss conglomerate Richemont Group, which includes brands like Cartier and Baume & Mercier. However, I’ll spare you the unnecessary details and focus on MB’s history as a watchmaker.  

Interestingly, Montblanc only recently ventured into watchmaking in 1997 after acquiring Minerva. Now, the techniques and craftsmanship of the Victorian-era Swiss watchmaker live through Montblanc watches. Aside from being respectable watchmakers for the military, they were former official timekeepers of the Olympic Ski Events and leading producers of handmade movements. 

So when you think of Montblanc as a watchmaker, think of the Minerva heritage and the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie. The latter is an institution for “preserving and cultivating” old precision timekeeping techniques and research for innovative technologies.  

Today, Montblanc is a force to reckon with among entry-level and, perhaps, mid-level luxury watch brands. So whether you picture a pen manufacturer when the name comes to mind, they’re not pushovers when it comes to watchmaking.

What’s The Status of Montblanc Watches Today?

What I said earlier stands; Montblanc isn’t a pushover and is more than a leading pen maker. And anyone who thinks otherwise is either biased, unacquainted, or resourceful enough to easily afford higher-end luxury.

Agreed, MB can be inseparable from the crowd when you stick to their entry-level models. But you start to see the excellence in craftsmanship when you go higher up, between $2000 to $15,000 – considerably still a moderate price to pay. 

I’ll emphasize craftsmanship to back Montblanc as a formidable watchmaker. The German luxury brand has watches, particularly dressy models, that make some popular brands look overpriced. They exude the finishing of a master artisan, in-house movements (mostly Selita-based), and a trademark Sfumato leather making.

Some notable mentions are the Vasco da Gama Moonphase and Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, which are excellent watches that would contend with any timepiece, even from the Holy Trinity. Aside from being capable of a side-by-side comparison for engineering prowess, Montblanc watches offer a sizable bang for your buck.

For instance, the Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Vasco Da Gama Moonphase in red gold, at around $13000, is almost half the price of the JLC Master Calendar. And they are evenly matched in functionality, looks, and craftsmanship. The only edge the JLC offers is brand recognition and, consequently, better resale value.  

The Best Montblanc Watches

Now that we’ve established that Montblanc watches are high-quality and affordable, here are some of the best models for men. 

1. Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date (ref. MB129371)

Price estimate: $3,600

This is Montblanc’s first diving watch, and it’s also themed after the Mer de Glace “Sea of Ice”, a massive glacier in the Mont-Blanc Massif. It’s interesting to have a Diver’s watch with a cool backstory. Better yet, it’s built with exceptional quality and attention to detail.

The most prominent feature is its glacier pattern in honor of the model name, Iced Sea and Merce de Sea. This glacial texture is achieved using an ancient technique called Gratte Boise. It also has an artistic engraved case back and crown. It’s a good example of Montblanc’s interest in preserving the old ways of watchmaking and infusing them with modern technology.

The Iced Sea is a 40mm stainless steel diving watch that can take a beating for generations. The dial has a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel and 300 meters of water resistance to bring it up to and beyond diving standards.    

2. Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph (ref. MB126098

This Montblanc is more than any other 43mm chronograph you’ve ever seen. It’s a work of art that’s ridiculously affordable for the level of engineering and artistry that goes into it. And it preserves Montblanc’s legacy of protecting the precious history of watchmaking.

As you may have deduced from the name, it’s a homage to Nicolas Rieussec – a French watchmaker who invented the inking chronograph in 1821 and King Phillipe’s official watchmaker. 

Wondering what an inking chronograph is? It’s simply a chronograph that prints elapsed time on the dial with ink. This Star Legacy has an equally well-engineered automatic chronograph movement, the caliber MB R200 with 72 hours of power reserve. It has a column wheel and counters with rotating discs that give off a 3D effect. 

The blue dial also has a unique guilloche pattern that catches the light and turns heads. It’s then coupled with a Sfumato alligator strap that completes its classy look as a dress watch. If you want a dressy Montblanc, Jaeger-LeCouture alternative, or a statement watch, the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec is a top contender for men.      

3. Montblanc Heritage Automatic Day & Date (ref. MB119947)

Price estimate: $2,700

Does “the President” ring a bell? This is the nickname of Rolex’s famed Day Date watch, and the Heritage Automatic Day & Date gives it a run for its money. But the Heritage has a style of its own, and it’s not just some cheap replica. Actually, it’s a tribute to Minerva’s classic dress watches from the ’40s and ’50s. 

The case is consistent with the vintage design of a seamless round frame and teethed crown in a 39mm case. Combined with the fully-polished finish and silvery white dial, this watch will complete a formal look for every man. 

Also, the combination of the hour marker and minute graduation inside the case and day and date windows give this watch a cool, refined, yet, classy appearance. More specifically, I fancy how the blue syringe seconds hand extends to the five-minute graduation.

It’s coupled with a grey Sfumato alligator leather strap that gives it a unique look and is comfortable to wear. Additionally, it’s powered by an in-house caliber concealed behind the solid case back with a Minerva Manufacture” engraving. Priced at a little over $2000, you’ll be getting plenty of luxury and comfort for the Heritage Day Date. 

4. Montblanc Tradition Automatic Date (ref. MB127770)

Price estimate: $2,115

Another masterpiece from Montblanc for men seeking casual luxury and style for occasions. It’s a classic stainless steel watch with a round case and the signature Montblanc straight lugs I’ve come to love. It’s 40mm across the case and has a unique 5-link stainless steel bracelet that exudes a bold and authentic aura. 

The dial is a beauty. It’s an infusion of matching silver-white with Roman numerals and baton hour markers, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Similar to the Heritage Day Date, it has an internal bezel, except this time, it’s a 15-minute graduation and railway minute design for indexes. And you can’t go wrong with the ultra-slim hands toning down the bold impression of the dial and bracelet. 

This Tradition Automatic uses an in-house MB 24.17 automatic caliber with a 38-hour reserve. Compared to similar models from name brands, like the Oris Artelier Automatic, Tissot Tradition Automatic, and even the Longines Master L2.357.4.08.6, the MB holds its own. 

And some may say it has a dressy edge with the Roman numerals on the dial. And, of course, it’s a slightly more economical timepiece, also offering a leather option if you want a more corporate style. Or the 36mm case if you’re more reserved. 

But I’ll admit the 2500-dollar Longines Master is enticing when you consider the diamond indexes and color options. All in all, Montblanc’s Traditional Automatic is a top-rated luxury watch any serious watch lover can appreciate for engineering, value, and beauty. 

5. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere (ref. MB119286)

Price estimate: $6,800

If you checked out the MB Vasco Da Gama from earlier, you’d understand Montblanc is a fan of exploratory watches. The type an ordinary fountain pen maker would struggle to idealize, much less perfect in production. Yet, the folks at Montblanc made the 1858 Geosphere as a tribute to mountaineers braving the Seven Summit Challenge – climbing the tallest mountains across the seven continents.

This is a befitting watch for Montblanc’s heritage since the brand’s name means “massif” or “principal mountain mass”. So it was no surprise extra attention was paid to detail, and it was released as a celebration of Minerva’s 160th anniversary. 

The 1858 Geosphere dial has two globes with a red dot signifying the location of each summit around the world. It also has a second timezone at 9 o’clock and a knurled ceramic bezel doubling as a compass. Talk about a new world timer. 

The structure is no less impressive. It’s a 42mm stainless steel case, black dial, and aged Sfumato calf leather for class and comfort. The 1858 Geosphere is also available in Nato and Bund straps for ultimate wearability. 

6. Montblanc Heritage GMT (ref. MB119950)

Price estimate: $3,300

By far the dressiest GMT watch you’ll come across, Montblanc gives travelers a timepiece to slay on the road. While I love the attention complicated watches like GMTs bring, I’m a simple man at heart. The MB Heritage GMT ticks all the right boxes with this simple design.

Don’t let the uncharacteristic round case with straight lugs fool you. It’s durable and just fine without a bezel. The salmon dial has a double entendre appeal (vintage and eye-catching) with three different layers of finish. 

The wood grain finish for the hands (inner layer), guilloche pattern for the 12-hour marker (center), and clear finish for the minute and 24-hour marker (outer ring) make the dial beautiful, readable, and shows thoughtful craftsmanship. 

This 40mm two-timezone Montblanc is water-resistant to 50 meters and has an automatic MB24.50 caliber with 42 hours of power reserve. Talk about a simple, stylish, yet powerful, GMT watch at an affordable price.  

7. Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H (ref. MB126007)

Price estimate: $3,300

With this “piece of art,” you’d recognize that the “1858” collection is MB’s dedication to complicated watches. It’s strictly a collector’s watch for enthusiasts who fancy the addition of a conceptual one-handed watch to their collectibles. It’s a beautiful 1858-themed watch with stainless steel case and an attractive patina-like bronze bezel. 

The bezel ages fine even with wear as the patina blooms, giving it the intended 19th-century feel. But that’s not the whole of the 19th-century story with this watch. What’s special about the Automatic 24h is also the unreal fact that it’s unable to keep time accurately. 

On the beautiful compass-like dial is a 24-hour marker with even gradations of 2-24 and a black map background. Interestingly there are compass indicators on the outer bezel, although I’m uncertain about their accuracy. What’s certain, though, is the bright red hand pointing to the rail tracks is the only way to tell the time – albeit accurate to only +/- 15 minutes. 

But I like the adventurous side to it; the first 12th hour of the day starts on the west, and the rest of the day is covered within the 24th hour on the east side of the dial. 

So how you tell the time is down to tracking the four minutes within the hour, leaving you accurate to only 15-minute intervals on the hour. Fun fact: the dial comes alive at night to reveal a map of the Northern Hemisphere and the Meridian lines. 

Montblanc wraps the bronze case in their much-hyped vintage textile strap from Julien Faure – a strap manufacturer that uses the same antique looms his forefathers used 150 years ago. 

While this is more of MB’s conceptual timepieces, I find it overpriced for the concept of feeling an alpine adventure and inaccurate timekeeping era. But I can’t deny it’s the perfect watch to pass down generations.      

8. Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Date 39 (ref. MB118517)

Price estimate: $2,650

Now we’re back in the present with another Montblanc beautiful dress watch – the Star Legacy Date 39. This 39mm stainless steel piece is a refresher from the complicated 1858 Automatic 24h, thanks to its easy-to-read Arabic Breguet numerals and uncluttered slate gray dial.  

The dial looks clean, but a closer look reveals the attention to detail of a skilled craftsman on the guilloche patterns. It’s the type of watch face that just seems to always get the attention of co-workers and friends. It’s classy and familiar, yet stands out from what you’ll see anywhere else.

Coupling it with MB’s sfumato alligator leather strap confirms its ultimate dress appeal. If you’re unfamiliar with the sfumato technique, it’s a technique from way back in Leonardo Da Vinci’s era that basically gives paintings, in this case, the leather strap, a smoky, faded, but stylish appearance like it aged like fine wine. Without a doubt, the Star Legacy 39mm is one timepiece for a businessman or classy professional to start a dress watch collection.

9. Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date 0 Oxygen The 8000 (ref. MB130984)

Price estimate: $3,180

In support of Montblanc’s intricate support for mountaineers for obvious reasons, I introduce the Date 0 Oxygen. The artisans and engineers constructed this sporty watch “devoid of oxygen” – airtight – to prevent fogging at high altitudes. Not to mention a spectacular dial to brave cold nights in the wild or rock every day.

The 8000 comes with a black glacier-patterned dial with Montblanc’s sfumato technique finishing, giving it a modern and vintage look. The watch face is a true work of art. In addition to the iced-out background, the 8000 has an easy-to-read dial with large-font Arabic numerals and illuminated cardinal points on the bezel.

It has a black bezel and boxy lugs that are sporty compared to the straight lugs of a typical Montblanc. But don’t write it off as a dress watch just yet; it’s leaf hour hands. Plus, it has an interchangeable bracelet so you can swap it for a leather strap.   

The Date 0 Oxygen 8000 runs on the powerful MB21.17 we’ve seen in the previous Montblanc models so far. It’s concealed in the closed case back with a “Spirit of Explorations” engraving as an honor to the brave who explore in this watch. Just remember, it may be 0 Oxygen, but it’s only water resistant to 100 meters. 

10. Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar (ref. MB119955)

Price estimate: $6,110

The Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar is one of the more complicated models from the German luxury brand. But it keeps its tradition of making simple, round, and dressy watches with a nod to Minerva’s heritage from the 19th century.

As you can probably tell, the Star Legacy has a calendar function or moon phase, but also day, date, month, and hour running on the MB 29.12 caliber. I can’t help but fantasize about how it holds up against heavyweights like the Breguet Classique Calendrier 7337 and Blancpain Quantieme Complet because they share some similarities in style. The Star Legacy has the round pocket watch shape not only for its Minerva heritage and like top competitors with the moon phase complication. 

Its dial is a stunning work of artistry despite having a seemingly simple white background. But the masterful artisans at Le Locle made some magic drilling the Montblanc exploding star guilloche front and center. And it’s encircled by the days of the week and the day and month window below the Montblanc logo.

In addition, black Roman numerals and dotted minute markers on the silvery-white dial give the Star Legacy a crisp and readable profile. The red crescent moon and blue hour and minute hands contrast so perfectly that it’s even easy for a horology newbie to get the concept. 

Couple this beautiful dial with a 42mm polished stainless steel case and Sfumato alligator leather; you get a casual and formal timepiece. Despite being one of the more pricey models, the Star Legacy calendar strikes a pretty good bargain for design and functionality at its price.  

11. Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph (ref. MB117836)

Price estimate: $5,602

The 1858 collection has got to be as iconic to Montblanc as the Submariner or Datejust is to Rolex. Before you get axes out, this is an assumption based on the number of impressive models and not judging by popularity. The Automatic Chronograph is a vintage beauty that keeps giving from simplicity, and contemporary fashion, to functionality. And the magnetic charm is from nothing over the top.

The watch has the typical round and polished case we’ve come to expect from Montblanc but with the added touch of a satin finish to the 42mm stainless steel contraption. Enter the dial; you’ll notice the faded but appealing old-school aesthetics of the leaf hands, markers, and sub counters on the black backdrop. 

And for a new look to the entire brand, MB introduces bi-pushers to Automatic Chronograph. Another change from the usual is its MB25.11 caliber with a 48-hour power reserve and 27 jewels. 

Although not uncommon in today’s luxury watch world, the calf leather strap is what catches my fancy. The raw look and bright contrast of the cognac strap give the timepiece a bold and versatile style that would pass for a house or beach party, dinner, or running errands. 

12. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar (ref. MB119925)

Price estimate: $21,000

Last but not least is the latest version of what was once the most affordable luxury perpetual calendar watch on the market. Although this new upgrade is not on the cheap side, it comes with a bigger case, less clutter and more harmony on the dial, and stronger movement. 

The Heritage Perpetual Calendar is powered by what Montblanc calls the “new manufacture” 29 caliber MB29.22. For folks unfamiliar with the perpetual calendar function, it’s simply a calendar that can be adjusted to read accurate days of the week from the past or future. Hence the MB29.22 reads hours, days, months, leap years, and moon phases accurately with a 48-hour power source.  

However, it’s not these features that are intriguing, but the engineering prowess to present them tastefully on the silvery white dial. The Star Legacy’s dial carries Montblanc’s signature multi-level textured finish that, while simple, exudes extreme attention to detail and makes the functions extra legible. This is a reminder that the Heritage Perpetual calendar also has a second timezone function, which is impressive. 

And to top it off, the watch fits in a slim 12mm stainless steel case thanks to the efficiency of engineering on the MB29.22. Pairing the Heritage Perpetual Calendar with Montblanc’s trademark sfumato leather strap was an obvious genius.

You’ll be adding a classy weekend or daily dress watch that commands respect in any room to your collection. And it has a seemingly positive resale value. It debuted at $15000 during its release at SIHH 2019 but now costs over $20000. 

Montblanc Watches: The Brand for Classic Men

Montblanc is the ultimate men’s luxury watch brand for classic men and even modern-day professional women. I don’t say this because they make exceptional watches, but the possibility of staying loyal to one brand for your luxury accessories.

At least for me, I enjoy having a brand I can trust to deliver quality, taste, and a good price for several items. It saves me the stress of starting a new customer journey of window shopping around to find a fit. 

And Montblanc caters to a niche of folks who want fashionable and sophisticated watches, briefcases, bracelets, wallets, and fountain pens for the traditional man. Overall, the German luxury watch manufacturer makes timepieces a beginner or hardcore enthusiast that values simplicity, style, and reasonable pricing would appreciate.

The most common word associated with watches these days is the word investment. People want to enjoy the benefits of wearing a quality timepiece and be sure it will always hold its value. 

As a watch enthusiast, the first thoughts that come to mind anytime I set my eyes on a watch are the cost of the timepiece and how much value they hold. These are the honest thoughts of any collector because as much as everyone loves a quality watch, the cost is a big hindrance to many purchases. 

Is Value Retention Important in Watches?

The meaning of value might differ from person to person. It might mean how much a particular piece costs and how much meaning a piece has to an individual. But when it comes to watches, the major factor that gives a watch value is how much it could cost in the future and, in this case, if the price would go higher or lower. 

I always advise people just getting into watches and trying to get an affordable timepiece to purchase watches from known reputable brands to get a piece of top quality and one they would enjoy wearing. 

Value retention does not play a role in this case. However, it is different when trying to purchase a watch that you can sell in the future for the same or a higher amount. In this case, the value retention of a timepiece is a very important factor.

What Makes a Watch Hold Its Value?

The cost of acquiring a watch is one of the qualities most people believe makes a watch hold value. From my experience as a collector, this is not always the case. There are lots of qualities a watch must have for it to be considered a timepiece that holds value.

Brand Recognition 

In all honesty, I won’t want to start telling anyone about my watch when I’m asked what I have on my wrist; I always want my timepiece to make a statement with just the brand name. The hype that comes with having a Rolex or a Patek Philippe is exactly what brand recognition means. 

The recognition a watch brand has is among the qualities that tell if a watch holds value or not because of the name such a brand has built for itself over the years. Watches like Jaeger-LeCoulture, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have been in existence for decades and are still known for not just their high costs but durability, quality, efficiency, and a whole bunch of other qualities that have kept them relevant to date. 

The fact that these watch brands have created a reputable name for themselves has kept them in the market for hundreds of years. Customers trust their products, which has increased their sales over the years of their operations. The recognition these brands have in the world of watches is a major factor that has helped most of their products hold value for a long time.

Watch Materials

After considering the brand of a particular watch when trying to acquire a new timepiece, the materials used in making the watch are one major factor that keeps me glued. The metals and crystals used for the casing are one aspect to be accessed when looking at the materials used to make a watch. Most brands say they use quality stainless steel, but some of them make use of alloy or very cheap steel for the casing of the watches.

The most common grade of steel found in top luxury watches are 316L and 904L steels. Materials like gold and titanium are used to case some top quality watches like the Omega Seamaster 300, crafted with grade 2 titanium and currently worth $9,500; the Rolex Day-date President with 40mm casing and up to 100 grams of pure gold, this timepiece costs up to $40,000.

Movement

One thing that blew my mind when I started getting into watches was the fact that the movement of a watch could determine the value associated with timepieces. There are two different movements in the world of watches, the Quartz that ticks every second and the mechanical watches with a sweeping seconds hand movement.

The mechanical watches are always more expensive than the others, mainly due to the effort put into the mechanism.

Watch Exclusivity 

A watch like the Patek Philippe Henry Grave Super Complication was a watch specifically designed for wealthy business people in the early parts of the 20th century. It was a pocket watch that had 24 different features, which took up to three years to design and five years to manufacture. 

This limited edition of Patek Philippe sold for $24 million in 2014 and held the record for the highest amount spent on a timepiece at that time. Aside from being cased in 18 karats worth of gold and having so many features, the exclusivity of this timepiece is the major factor that holds the value of this pocket watch to date.

Iconic Status

The story behind the creation of a particular watch or events, reasons, and experiences that surround a timepiece could categorize a watch as iconic. A good example is the Reverso collection from Jaeger LeCoultre, which was brought to life in 1931 to protect watches from being scratched or damaged during physical activities.

Various collections have come out of this brand, yet the Reverso collection seems to be the most popular one out of all of them, and multiple watches in this iconic line are very well known to hold their value.

Do Affordable Watches Hold Their Value?

As I mentioned earlier, the material used in designing a watch is a major yardstick for measuring if a timepiece would hold value or not. Every watch manufacturer wants to make a profit from the sale of their timepieces. That’s always the goal when trying to sell anything, right? And nobody would make use of very quality materials in designing a watch and sell them very cheaply because those materials cost a lot of money. 

So, there are no cheap watches that hold value, in my opinion. But when it comes to the world of watches and gauging from the cost of a lot of other timepieces, there are affordable watches that hold their value. I will give you a list of some of these watches and their specifications below. 

The Best Affordable Watches That Won’t Lose Their Value

1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex announced the launch of this hand-wound watch back in 2017, and it instantly became a hit due to the quality of materials used in the design and how cheap it was. This timepiece has a case size of 34mm with a thickness of 10mm. It has a lug width of 18mm with a water resistance of up to 30m.

The most attractive features of this watch are its excellent dress watch proportions, along with the hand-wound Seagull movement powering it. This leather strapped hand-wound watch is perfectly styled to carry that vintage look and only costs $200.

2. Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)

This unique collaboration between Omega and Swatch came out in 2022 and took the watch world by storm. Its bioceramic case has a 41.9mm diameter and is built with two-thirds pure ceramic, and the other one-third is from a material obtained from castor oil.

This watch has the look of the Omega Speedmaster and can easily play the same role if you don’t have up to $6,000 to spend on a Speedy. The short lug-to-lug distance of 47.9mm makes it wear very well on most wrists. It does have a few shortcomings, including an acrylic crystal, but for $260, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a watch with a more iconic design.

3. Seiko SKX007 (ref. 7S26-0020)

This timepiece carries the look and price to make it the go-to piece for many watch lovers. Like most Seiko watches, it has a very masculine design with a 42mm in width, 13mm in height, and a 46mm lug to lug. The outstanding feature of this watch lies in its overall function.

It was manufactured to satisfy the ISO 6425 dive standard, which includes temperature cycling from -20c to 60c, getting hit by a hammer weighing up to 3kg, and a meter drop test, all done while maintaining its accurate time. 

This watch has a Seiko 7S26 movement which is the company’s cheapest movement and goes to show that designing a quality watch doesn’t always have to come with the most expensive materials. 

The designs on the minute, second, and hour hands add more to the aesthetic look of this watch. Seiko discontinued the SKX collection in 2019, and prices have increased steadily for a piece in good condition. If you can find one close to its original retail price of approximately $200, go for it, as it’s unlikely to drop any time soon.

4. Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)

I set my eyes on this timepiece in 2022, and the attention to detail on the green dial really stood out to me. It has very bold numerals on the dial with cathedral minute, hour, and second hands. This Japanese watch is powered by a 6R15 movement that is very reliable and shock resistant with a water resistance of up to 200 meters. 

It also has a sapphire crystal which makes it very difficult to get scratched. This watch has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 12mm which makes it very easy to wear. This Alpinist watch is well-respected by many collectors because of the good features it has and still falls under the category of quality watches that you can buy for less than $1000.

5. Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.04)

The minimalist design and the overall look of this watch made me purchase this watch a couple of months ago. The dimensions of this timepiece include a 38mm diameter, a case height of 9.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 40mm. 

Junghans are known for their minimalist features, but the addition of sapphire crystals has added a little bit of sophistication to the watch. As simple as this timepiece looks, it is controlled by an automatic movement inside, the calibre J800.1. This watch currently sells for approximately $1,200.

6. Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)

The components of this watch make it a relatively affordable one, even in the range of $1000-$1500. From being hand-assembled in Germany and also having a Sellita SW200-1 movement, I consider this a very good buy. Aside from being an easily repairable watch due to its movement, Sinn watches are also known for their resistance to shock and cold. 

The timepiece has a sapphire crystal on the front and back and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 45.5mm, a thickness of 11.2mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The dial of this watch has white text and a deep black background which matches the middle parts of the second, minute, and hour hands, giving them a floating look. 

7. Omega Speedmaster Reduced(ref. 3510.50.00)

Like most Omega Speedmasters, the Reduced has a very legible dial with a black background and white minute, hour, and second hands. The dial of the Speedmaster Reduced houses 3 sub-dials that serve chronograph functions for a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and small seconds. 

This watch measures 39mm in diameter and has a lug width of 18mm. The steel watch is powered by the caliber 3220, which is a self-winding ETA-based movement fitted with a modular chronograph mechanism and also has a water resistance of up to 30 meters. This timepiece has a Hesalite crystal at the top of the watch, which adds to its thickness of 12.3mm. This watch currently sells within the range of $3,000 to $4,000.

8.  Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400  (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

Pilot watches have a lot of features that make them appealing to a wide range of people. This timepiece was released in 2022 and comes in pink, blue, gray, and green colors. The watch is housed in a 39mm diameter and 12mm thick lightweight titanium case.

It features the in-house automatic Calibre 400, with 5 days’ worth of power and a water resistance of up to 100 meters. One feature that differentiates this pilot from some other ones is the see-through case back which allows you to see the artistic inner workings of the timepiece.

The serpentine-style three-link bracelet also adds to its look and makes a firm grip around the wrist. The watch has a simple dial with minute, hour, and second hands and also a date indicator at the bottom part of the watch. This timepiece is currently worth $4,300. 

9.  Tudor Pelagos 39 (ref. M25407N-000)

One of the standout features of the Tudor Pelagos 39 is its dimensions, including a diameter of 39mm, a case thickness of 11.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm. This dive watch is powered by an in-house COSC-certified movement, the MT5400, and has a power reserve of up to 70 hours. The watch has a casing and bracelet made with grade 2 titanium and has a water resistance of 200 meters. 

The Tudor Pelagos has a black dial with white second, minute, and hour hands and also white and red texts within the dial which all light up in the dark. The complementary rubber strap that comes with this watch allows for a longer-lasting relationship with this watch, as interchanging them will prevent the watch from getting scratched. This watch is currently sold for $4,600.

10.  Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

This is one of the most popular Omega watches, and as the name implies, it’s an edition of the first Omega watch in space which is the Speedmaster 2998. An alpha-style hand is used for the hour and minute hand, while baton hands were used for the 12-hour and 30-minute sub-dial. 

This watch is powered by the Omega caliber 1861 hand-winding movement and also has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. This stainless steel timepiece has the date of October 1962 engraved on its back, which marks the Sigma 7th space mission. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm and a thickness of 14mm. The cost of this watch ranges between $5,000 to $6,000.

11. Tudor Black Bay (ref. 79220N)

This model of the Black Bay has a 41mm case from side to side, just like the other ones. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 49.6mm and features an ETA 2824 movement with 38 hours of power reserve. 

This watch has a very classic dial, just like the ones found in old-school Rolexes, and even includes the original Tudor rose logo. The casing and bracelet of the stainless steel watch are well polished all around and have the inscription of Tudor at the bottom and in between the clasps. This timepiece costs between $5,000 to $6,000.

12. Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)

This is one of the later models of the Rolex Thunderbird, which was created for air force pilots back in the day. The watch is available in solid gold and stainless steel types. This timepiece is a late-80s, early-90s watch, so it doesn’t come with the fanciest features. It has a bi-directional bezel at the top, which moves freely without the usual clicks. 

This watch comes in different dial colors with bold indices and a tiny Roman numeral inscription at the top of the indices. It is a 36mm cased watch with a thickness of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. You can find ones in good condition for around $7,000 to $8,000.

Conclusion 

From my experience as a watch enthusiast, the affordability of a watch varies from person to person. A particular timepiece could have all the characteristics of a watch that holds value and sell at a price lesser than it is valued at. Despite that, a lot of people would still categorize such a watch as expensive. 

However, it can be seen from the list above that there are quality watches of different ranges that hold their value, and these watches could be enjoyed by people looking to sell them in the nearest future for the same or a higher cost, and people just looking to enjoy the feeling of a quality watch.