Category: Seiko

Quartz watches almost put mechanical watches out of business during the late 1960s and early ’70s. While originally priced as premium products competing with mechanical watches, they quickly became cheaper and easier to mass produce. They were also much more reliable, durable, and accurate than mechanical watches, which was a priority to most buyers as timepieces still had the primary function of telling the time during this period. 

Quartz watches only had one practical shortcoming compared to mechanical watches: the battery needed to be replaced. Early quartz watches were not as efficient as the ones we have today, often requiring a battery replacement every six months, frequent enough to be problematic when a mechanical watch could easily go a few years without service. 

Additionally, early and high-end quartz movements were built to be serviceable, in addition to the frequent battery changes. That meant while they were more robust, reliable, and accurate, there was a period of time when quartz watches would require more frequent trips to the local watchmaker. 

Seiko sought to find a solution to this. What if a quartz watch had a battery that didn’t need to be replaced? Especially if the watch still had to be serviced? While solar-powered watches introduced in the 1970s offered a relatively worry-free wearing experience, the power cell would need to be replaced every 10 years. Seiko wanted to focus on producing a watch with serviceable parts instead of replaceable ones. 

The History Seiko Kinetic Watches

With the goal of reducing the environmental impact of mass-produced quartz watches, Seiko began developing movements that could be wound like a traditional mechanical watch but utilized electricity, providing the reliability and accuracy of quartz watches. Seiko began the development of a quartz movement that did not rely on a conventional battery in 1983. 

The first of these watches that were commercially available was the SBAD001 and SBAD003. Released in late 1986, these watches were the first of their kind. Inside of these was the 8T23 movement, a movement where the generator for the capacitor was hand-wound. 

In addition to telling the time, these two references had day and date displays, along with a full-charge indicator light at six o’clock. Upon full charge, the movement had 72 hours of power reserve; however, it took three minutes of continuous winding to reach a full charge.

The relatively short battery life compared to the amount of winding required made this watch a relative commercial flop, and Seiko discontinued the watch after only one year. 

In January 1988, Seiko released the first “AGS” quartz watch, which stood for “Automatic Generating System”. Instead of being manually wound, a rotor similar to those found on automatic mechanical watches powered the generator. 

These watches were a marked improvement over the manually wound caliber. Seiko succeeded in making a more ecologically minded quartz-regulated movement and earned Germany’s Blue Angel Mark for sustainable products.

Seiko renamed the “AGS” line to “Kinetic” in 1997. Seiko also released a variety of styles and complications, including the first AGS diver in 1992, the AGS “Flightmaster,” which included a GMT, and the first Kinetic chronograph in 2000. 

In 1999, Seiko introduced a pause feature that would internally track the time while pausing the hands when not in use to save battery life. When the watch was worn again, the movement would correct the hands to the present time.  Many watches in the Kinetic line have display casebacks, allowing the owner to view the movement, showing off the rotor that gave power to the movement.

As of 2021, it appears that Seiko has begun to phase out the Kinetic line, with no new models being introduced and limited availability. Entirely speculation, but this is likely because of the developments in solar technology, along with the development of higher-end quartz calibers that are more serviceable than those produced in the 1970s and 80s.  

How Seiko Kinetic Watches Work

Seiko’s Kinetic movements are fairly unique in that they are “wound” similar to a mechanical watch. When “winding” the watch, the turn of the crown or the movement rotor turns a small electrical generator that charges a capacitor.

The movement is then run off of the capacitor, and the quartz movement runs the same as any other quartz movement. Because the capacitor is able to be recharged, battery replacements are no longer necessary. 

While the first watch with this technology was hand-wound, Seiko later released a movement with automatic winding only and then one with both manual and automatic winding. With the automatic rotor, the rotor turns a gear train, multiplying the speed of the rotor spinning by one hundred times, creating a current that then charges the capacitor, which powers the circuits for the analog time display.

While the first watches to use this technology could only run for a few days, the technology improved, and modern Seiko Kinetic watches can run for up to six months on a full charge.

They also started as simple movements, only displaying the time, day and date, but later progressed to perpetual calendars, chronographs, and gmt movements. Similar to the rest of Seiko’s catalog, the brand released a multitude of models, ranging from quite dressy and formal to sporty and avant-garde. 

Other Seiko Collections

While there has been some overlap between Seiko Kinetic watches and their other lines, currently, there are no Kinetic-powered watches in the current catalog. Lines that are part of the main Seiko line-up currently are Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, and Astron. 

The Seiko 5 focuses on Seiko’s entry-level offerings. Based on the five attributes of offering water resistance, an automatic movement, day and date function, a recessed crown at four o’clock, and a case and crown built for durability. 

While some watches have strayed from the four o’clock crown and day and date function, timepieces within this collection continue to offer a great deal of value for beginning collectors or those looking for an affordable piece to add to their collection.

The Prospex range focuses on watches purpose-built for sporting activities. The most famous are the dive watches in the range, ranging from affordable quartz models to higher-end Spring Drive driven pieces; they are all built to withstand the trials of underwater adventures. Additionally, there are both automatic and quartz chronographs and GMT models. 

Seiko’s Presage line is their more formal and “go-anywhere-do-anything” oriented model. Still offering a variety of complications, including GMTs, chronographs, power reserve indicators, and simple time and date models, these models are great options should you need something more dress-oriented or simply what a more simple and versatile timepiece.

The Seiko Astron collection is where Seiko is really pushing its quartz technology. Models in this collection are radio/satellite controlled, meaning they receive an input signal to synchronize the time, ensuring accurate time telling. Various models include perpetual calendars, world time functions, chronographs, and alarms. 

While initially quite large, Seiko has been working on making them more wearable in recent years, making them ideal for world travelers or watch enthusiasts interested in the most cutting-edge time-telling technology. Additionally, if you are obsessed with accuracy, these watches are worth looking at. 

12 Seiko Kinetic Watches To Know

While far from a comprehensive list, the watches listed below feature highlights from Seiko’s Kinetic powered watches.

Seiko Kinetic Dive Watch SKA371

This black-dialed dive watch features Seiko’s 5M62 kinetic-powered quartz movement. It features a 6-month power reserve, with a pusher at 2 o’clock that allows you to check the power reserve. The watch additionally features a date at 3 o’clock, is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month, has 6 jewels, and is 4.3mm thick. 

The stainless steel case of the SKA371 measures 42.5mm wide, 14mm thick, 47mm lug-to-lug, and has a 20mm lug width. The black unidirectional bezel has a lume pip at 12 o’clock, and the dial is covered by a Hardlex crystal.

The watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet. The SKA371 has been discontinued, but the last published list price was 550 USD. Models continue to be available on the second hand market.  

Seiko Kinetic Prospex SUN023 GMT

Part of the Prospex collection, this tool-focused diver features a 47.5mm wide PVD-coated stainless steel case that is 15mm thick, has 24mm lugs, and measures 51mm lug-to-lug. The black dial features plenty of lume and bright orange and blue accents. 

The unidirectional dive bezel also features orange numerals, tying in with the minute hand. The blue 24-hour indications coordinate with the 24-hour hand, making reading both elapsed time and the second time zone a breeze. 

Inside is the 5M85 movement. Similar to the 5M62 in dimensions and accuracy, it also features six months of power reserve and a power reserve indication feature by pushing the 2 o’clock pusher. The movement allows for independent setting of both the main hour hand (which is used to also adjust the date) and the 24-hour hand is set with the main hands.

The local hand jumps while maintaining the timekeeping function, preventing the need to reset the watch every time the owner jumps timezones. The case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a sapphire crystal covering the dial. The watch comes with a rubber strap. 

While large and featuring a bold color scheme, the SUN023 makes an ideal summer travel watch. At the time of its release, the retail price was 675 USD. 

Seiko Kinetic Perpetual Premier SNP161

Seiko’s Premier line features bold case designs that manage to make a bold statement while being dressy in appearance. The SNP161 combines a perpetual calendar with a large date display with their Kinetic movement technology. The stainless steel case measures 43mm wide, 12mm thick, 48.4mm lug-to-lug, and has a 22mm wide steel bracelet.

Inside is the 7D56 Kinetic movement, which has a rated accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month, has 16 jewels, and measures 6.1mm thick. There is a power save function, which stops the hands after 24 hours of no movement. The blue dial features textured patterns, sword hands, and baton markers. The last published retail price was 950 USD. 

Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705

The Seiko Recraft collection focuses on a casual retro-oriented design influenced by Seiko’s back catalog. The SKA705 features a black ion-plated stainless steel case that measures 42mm wide, 12mm thick and has 22mm lugs. The watch comes with a nylon pass-through strap.  The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance. 

The black dial features yellow accents, with white-colored lume on the hands and indices. The dial is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal. Inside is the Seiko 5M82 caliber, with a date at the 4:30 position. This movement features the same power reserve feature by pushing the pusher at 2 o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The last published retail price for the Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705 was 325 USD. 

Seiko Kinetic Premier Perpetual Novak Djokovic Special Edition SNP149P2

Made as a special edition for Seiko ambassador and tennis star Novak Djokovic. Featuring the same case design and movement as the SNP161, the SNP149P2 features a black dial with a striped dial decoration, alternating rose gold batons with Roman numerals, along with rose gold hands and subdials.

The crown is also rose gold plated, tying together the dial elements to the outer case. The watch is attached to a 22mm alligator patterned leather strap with a deployant buckle. The last published retail price for the Seiko SNP149P2 was 800 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Velatura Direct Drive SRH013

Seiko’s Velatura collection was originally intended as Seiko’s sailing-oriented collection. Boasting water resistance, and sporting designs, their water fairing intentions were clear. The SRH013 has a black IP-coated stainless steel case that measures 43mm wide and 13mm thick. Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with yellow accents.

The subdial at 4:30 displays the day of the week, with a power reserve at 9 o’clock and the date at six o’clock. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance and comes on a rubber strap, backing up the water sport-oriented design. Inside is the Seiko caliber 5D44. The last published retail price was 1395 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Coutura Retrograde SRN066

The Coutura collection consists of sporty designs with integrated straps and bracelets. Intended to be elegant yet bold, watches within this collection are intended to be capable of daily wear while fitting into a variety of situations. 

The SRN066 has a 43mm black ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, and a rose gold plated bezel. The case measures 12.1mm thick. The black dial with rose gold hands and indices is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal. 

Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M84, which can be seen through the display caseback. In addition to the time and date, there is a retrograde day display between four and six o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance, making it suitable for water activities. 

While the Coutura collection is still on Seiko’s websites, the Kinetic movement loaded models seem to be discontinued, with the focus shifted to solar-powered movements. The last published retail price of the SRN066 was 495 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Premier Moonphase SRX015

Another complicated watch from the Premier collection, the SRX015 boasts a moonphase function. The caliber 5D88 displays the time, with a date subdial at three o’clock, a 24-hour indicator and day sub-dial at six o’clock, and a power reserve indicator for the one-month power reserve at nine o’clock. The silver textured dial alternates Roman numerals and stick indices for the hour markers. 

The 42.5mm wide steel case is 14mm thick and comes with a 22mm wide steel bracelet. With a sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance, it will be more than capable of daily wear and water activities. When last available, the retail price was 1195 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065

The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065 shares the same case and movement as the SUN023 covered earlier in this article. Instead of the black case and bold colors on the dial, the SUN065 is a PADI special edition, sticking with the blue and red color scheme associated with the organization. 

PADI stands for the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, an organization founded in 1966 by John Cornin and Ralph Erickson. It is a group dedicated to the training and education of divers, ranging from entry-level courses to specialized skills and certifications. As of 2022, their work has issued 29 million certifications.

The Seiko Prospex SUN065 has a 47.5mm wide stainless steel case that has both brushed and polished surfaces with a blue bezel insert. The blue dial has silver indices filled with lume and red accents coordinating with the 24-hour hand. The pusher at 2 o’clock is coated and colored blue, tying together the bezel and dial with the case.  The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065’s last published MSRP was 750 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Titanium SKA495

While most of the models mentioned have been part of the higher-end Seiko collections, the SKA495 is a more entry-level offering from Seiko, allowing collectors to obtain a Kinetic powered watch and a titanium case and bracelet. The last published MSRP was 450 USD.

The titanium case measures 40mm wide and 12mm thick and comes with an integrated titanium bracelet. Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M62, offering 6 months of power reserve and a power reserve display function by pressing the crown at two o’clock. The case is water resistant to 100 meters, making it more than suitable for daily wear.

The dark gray dial has gold-colored hands and indices and is covered by a Hardlex crystal. With reasonable dimensions and great specifications, the Seiko SKA495 is a good candidate for a go anywhere, do anything watch. 

Seiko Kinetic Sportura SUN015

The Seiko Sportura took its design inspiration from the automotive industry, creating timepieces that were both streamlined and futuristic in appearance. 

The SUN015 represents a more restrained representation from the collection, but still quite bold. Measuring 45mm wide, 13mm thick, 51mm lug-to-lug, and coming on a 21mm wide steel bracelet, it will have plenty of presence on the wrist. Inside is the 5M85 movement seen in the other GMT watches mentioned, offering the date and second time zone in addition to displaying the time. 

The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown, and the black dial with lumed hands and indices is covered by a sapphire crystal. The black bezel is made of ceramic, adding another scratch-resistant material to the front of the watch. When released, the SUN015 had a retail price of 750 USD.

Seiko Kinetic SMY139

Another lower-priced offering from Seiko, the SMY139 is more utilitarian-focused in its design. Featuring a black ion-plated 41mm wide case and 20mm bracelet, and a black dial with large lumed indices and 12, 6, and 9 numerals, the military inspiration is clear. 

Measuring 11mm thick, rated to 100 meters of water resistance, and coming with a Hardlex crystal, the tough exterior is svelte enough to stay out of harm’s way while still handling some rough situations. 

Inside is the 5M83 caliber, which is the same as the 5M82, but with both the day and date displayed. When originally released, the Seiko Kinetic SMY139 retailed for 380 USD. 

Conclusion

Seiko’s pursuit of accuracy, reliability, and sustainability led them to create the AGS system, which would later be renamed Kinetic. These movements provided the accuracy, durability, and convenience of quartz while reducing reliance on disposable batteries and the convenience of an automatic movement, meaning the wearer’s movement would provide power for the watch. 

With solar technology improving, the Kinetic movements have been phased out of Seiko’s current collection. For collectors interested in different types of movement technology, adding a Seiko Kinetic or two to the collection can add some diversity and intrigue to the more common battery-powered and mechanical spring-driven movements. 

Originally released in 1982, the Seiko H558 was the first of its kind: a hybrid dive watch interweaving both digital and analog technology. It was and is befitting of Arnold Schwarzenegger, who famously portrayed T-800 in the iconic Terminator. 

Like the watch, he was two technologies in one package: man and machine. Though he didn’t wear the timepiece in the post-apocalyptic sci-fi, he first wore it a year later in Commando (1985) and then again in Predator (1987). This gave the watch a cult-like following, and it’s been popular ever since. 

Seiko H558: A Purpose Built Machine

The year is 1982. Michael Jackson’s groundbreaking album “Thriller” is released. Spielberg’s extraordinary film, E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial, hits the silver screen. The cost of a gallon of gas is 90 cents, and the average monthly rent is $320. It’s been 10 years since Hamilton released the first commercially available digital wristwatch, the Pulsar. 

And Seiko is about to pull a rabbit out of a hat. The behemoth of the watch industry releases a larger-than-life watch that blends both digital and analog technology—something that’s never been done before. It’s pure horological magic, folks.

The H558 was built to endure the toughest of adventures. That it ended up adorning the wrist of one of the most iconic action stars and bodybuilders of all time is pure coincidence. During development, Seiko’s engineers subjected it to extreme temperatures, ranging from bone-chilling -40°C to scorching 60°C, ensuring its capabilities. 

Scaling the heights of Mount Everest and conquering the North and South Poles, the “Arnie” accompanied intrepid explorers, becoming an emblem of human endeavor. Equipped with features like three time zones, a chronograph, an alarm, and a trusty backlight, this multifaceted “tool” watch was a true purpose-built machine, embodying a piece of history and a timeless connection to the spirit of adventure. 

Seiko Arnie: A Closer Look

Seiko fans might notice the similarities between the H558-5009 and the Seiko Tuna. The architecture of the two watches is strikingly similar, with the rotating bezel, tiny lugs, outer shroud, and diving capabilities.

The Arnie is, in fact, part of Seiko’s Tuna family of watches, and it offers a design language that is polarizing to some but downright delicious to others. Oh—It’s worth mentioning that it has a case diameter of 45mm. *Pause for dramatic effect.*

With today’s watches trending smaller and smaller, it seems that most modern collectors have a downright aversion to watches that are 42mm in diameter, never mind 45mm. But then you take a closer look at the dimensions. It has a 46.5mm lug-to-lug and a case thickness of around 11mm. 

In actuality, the 1982 timepiece wears closer to the dimensions of a 40mm watch than a 45mm watch, but that’s due to the virtually nonexistent lugs. It is a watch with a larger-than-life dial presence. But people didn’t buy this watch as a svelte watch that disappears on the wrist; they did so because they wanted to make a statement.

They wanted to be like Arnold and flex for all the world to see. The original “Arnie” also featured a durable plastic bezel shroud protecting the 60-minute diver’s bezel, offering unprecedented durability. The watch boasted both analog and digital displays, with a black dial featuring luminous markers and hands for optimal legibility.

Its quartz movement, the Seiko caliber H558, ensured accurate timekeeping and powered various functions such as a chronograph, alarm, and calendar. The Seiko “Arnie” also incorporated a scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal, providing durability and excellent visibility. With a water resistance of approximately 150 meters, a robust stainless steel bezel, and a comfortable rubber strap, the Seiko “Arnie” was a tank for your wrist!

“I’ll Be Back” – The Discontinuation of the Seiko Arnie

The H558 embodies Arnold in such a way that it exemplifies one of his most famous lines: “I’ll Be Back”. The H558 was discontinued in 1990—the year I was born! A lot of time has passed since then, and the secondary market is the only place serious collectors can attain the original today.

As is typical with a popular watch that has been discontinued for over three decades, pickings are slim, with most timepieces being well-worn and in need of some sort of repair. They are priced from around $500 into the thousands, depending on the condition of the watch. 

You may be looking at the price and thinking, well, dang. I’ll never be able to pony up that much money for a watch, never mind a used one. How am I ever going to channel my inner Arnold now? It would take Seiko twenty-nine years to dig back into the archives and give us a reissue worthy of its predecessor. Enter the Seiko Prospex SNJ025. 

Return of an Icon: The Seiko Prospex SNJ025 

In 2019, Seiko delighted its customer base with a reissue of the “Arnie.” As watches have typically grown over the years—though smaller timepieces are now trending—this new iteration is quite a bit larger than its predecessor.

But large is appropriate for a watch that is nicknamed after Mr. Olympia! It also is packing new and exciting technology, as you may expect for a timepiece being released in the modern day and age. The SNJ025 has a case diameter of 48mm. It has a lug-to-lug of 50.5mm and a case thickness of around 14mm.

In creating a larger watch, Seiko is carefully crafting the narrative around this piece: it is big, bold, badass. I have tried the watch on, and while I might be able to pull it off with my 6.5-inch wrists, I’ll leave it to larger, burlier customers. 

It has a subtle beauty about it that’s hard to explain. It has two extended pushers at 10 and 8 o’clock and three recessed ones at 9, 2, and 3. That’s a lot of hardware for one watch, but it all comes together into something that gives you that warm feeling inside.

You suddenly remember sitting beside a sibling and listening to E.T. phone home for the first time. You remember playing with Pogs and reading the back of the cereal box. True to the original, the “Arnie” offers an amalgamation of technology. It has an analog handset, a digital display at the 12, and a new caliber: the H851, a solar-powered movement with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and offers 6 months of power when fully charged.

The analog and digital times are now automatically synchronized, which makes setting the time all the more exciting. Seiko has upped Arnie’s water resistance to 200m, now making it ISO 6452 certified. With an MSRP of $525, on sale now at ExquisiteTimepieces for $420, the SNJ025 offers incredible value for the price. You have an ISO-certified timepiece with loads of features, including an alarm, timer, GMT, solar capabilities, and robust build quality.

I don’t think, for the price, you can find a watch packed with as many features. If you are looking for something durable to set and forget, you’d be remiss not to consider the Seiko SNJ025. As is the case with all new Seiko watches, the SNJ025 includes a two-year manufacturer warranty. 

Closing Thoughts

If ever there were a watch to wear for the end of the world, when the robots take over, I can’t think of a better one to wear than the SNJ025. Sure, there are G-Shocks and other purpose-built watches that would be appropriate. 

Still, there’s something about the raw ruggedness of the Arnie that just calls to me, that beckons to a time when the digital and analog worlds of yesteryear intersected in a way that only a wristwatch can possibly elicit in today’s complex world of digital insanity. Watches are, beyond being a fashion statement and timekeeping tool, meant to start conversations. 

I can’t think of a better conversation starter than Arnold Schwarzenegger, the nostalgia of the 1980s, and digital, analog, and solar technologies, all in one tiny, shiny package. Arnold’s back and he’s not going anywhere anytime soon!

Seiko has a rich history spanning over a century. Throughout this time, their watches have earned a well-deserved reputation for being affordable, durable, and exceptional timepieces. As a proud owner of several Seiko watches, I can personally vouch for these qualities.

However, Seiko sometimes goes unnoticed due to its Asian manufacturing origins and affordable price range. Some individuals perceive Seiko watches as disposable timepieces that lose value once they stop functioning correctly. Nevertheless, we aim to delve into this perception and debunk any doubts about the quality of Seiko watches.

Without further delay, let’s thoroughly examine the various aspects of the Seiko brand, including its background and the quality it offers, and determine why you should seriously consider owning one of its remarkable timepieces.

Background & History of Seiko

Seiko’s history dates back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori, a 21-year-old entrepreneur in Tokyo, started a small jewelry and watch business. This makes Seiko one of the oldest watch brands still actively manufacturing timepieces. In 1892, Kintaro Hattori established the ‘Seikosha’ factory, initially focused on producing wall clocks.

Seeking to expand the range of their production, Kintaro Hattori introduced the brand’s first pocket watch, known as “The Timekeeper,” in 1895. Taking another significant step in 1913, Seiko created the first Japanese wristwatch called “The Laurel.” The production of the first Seiko-branded wristwatches began in 1924.

A pivotal moment in Seiko’s history came in 1969 with the introduction of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Boasting an impressive accuracy rating of 5 seconds per month, this groundbreaking timepiece triggered the “Quartz Crisis.” It caused a significant disruption within the mechanical watch industry and led to the decline of many Swiss watch brands.

In the subsequent decades, Seiko has remained committed to innovation, achieving several notable milestones:

• In 1986, they established the world’s first Diver’s watch capable of reaching depths of 1000m, featuring a ceramic outer case.
• Seiko was chosen as the Official Timer for the Olympic Games in 1992, a testament to their timekeeping precision and reliability.
• In 1999, they introduced the revolutionary Spring Drive Movement, combining mechanical and quartz technologies for enhanced accuracy and smooth sweeping seconds hand motion.
• Seiko’s commitment to excellence was recognized in 2014 when they won the prestigious “Petite Aiguille” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, often referred to as the Oscar Awards of watchmaking.

These accomplishments demonstrate Seiko’s unwavering dedication to pushing boundaries and delivering exceptional timepieces.

The above details only scratch the surface of Seiko’s rich history and achievements. For a more in-depth understanding, I recommend visiting their official website, where you can explore the comprehensive timeline.

Having touched upon Seiko’s remarkable history, it’s worth emphasizing that affordability remains a defining characteristic of the brand. Even today, Seiko continues to offer timepieces that are accessible to a wide range of budgets. 

Additionally, Seiko has established various tiers within its lineup, including the Seiko 5, Seiko Presage, and Seiko Prospex collections. This diversification enables Seiko to cater to different price points, making them an excellent choice for both entry-level and avid watch collectors alike.

Are Seiko Watches Good?

Below I will outline some characteristics that distinguish Seiko watches from other Japanese and even Swiss watch brands:

Design Variety

Seiko offers an extensive range of watch designs thanks to the multitude of models and collections spanning several decades. With such a diverse selection, there is a Seiko watch to suit every individual’s taste and style. Seiko timepieces come in various shapes and sizes, offering a wide array of options.

Some collectors even specialize exclusively in Seiko watches, as the brand provides more than enough options to keep them engaged. From the iconic SKX, Tuna, Turtle, Captain Willard, Pogue, and many more, Seiko offers a rich collection of distinctive and renowned timepieces.

Excellent Affordable Timepieces

Seiko boasts an extensive collection of watches, many of which offer an exceptional cost-to-value ratio. A prime example is the Seiko 5 collection, followed by the Prospex and Presage collections. Seiko 5 timepieces can be found for as low as under $100 if you search diligently.

While the Prospex and Presage collections are priced higher, they also offer enhanced build quality. This means that Seiko provides excellent value for your money, ensuring you get a timepiece that combines affordability with impressive craftsmanship.

Durable Watches

Let’s focus on the fundamental Seiko 5 collection, which encompasses five key characteristics, one of them being water resistance. Seiko has set a requirement that their Seiko 5 watches must meet water resistance standards suitable for everyday individuals. This feature ensures that the timepiece can withstand challenging conditions, particularly when exposed to underwater atmospheric pressures.

Moreover, certain watches from Seiko’s Prospex collection exhibit even stricter tolerances, offering water resistance of up to 300m. Depending on the specific Seiko collection you choose, you can be assured of owning a resilient and robust timepiece that can endure various demanding situations.

In-House Mechanical Movements

Seiko utilizes in-house movements across their range of mechanical timepieces, from their affordable models to their high-end offerings. Among their in-house movements are the 4R36, 6R35, and 8L35 calibers, and many more.

This is truly remarkable when compared to Swiss watch brands, as Seiko possesses the technical prowess to manufacture movements for all tiers within their watch collection hierarchy. In order to acquire a Swiss or even German watch with an in-house mechanical movement, one would typically have to consider brands like Tudor or NOMOS, with starting price points of around $1,500.

Thus, Seiko’s ability to produce their own movements across their entire lineup provides exceptional value and showcases their dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.

Pop Culture Stigma

Seiko timepieces have made appearances in numerous iconic movies, adding to their allure. For example, Sigourney Weaver wore the Seiko Giugiaro in the movie “Aliens,” while Robert Redford sported the recognizable Seiko SKX009 in “All is Lost”. 

Arnold Schwarzenegger famously donned the Seiko H558 in the film “Predator,” and Martin Sheen prominently wore the Seiko 6105-8119 (known as the Captain Willard) in “Apocalypse Now.” These movie appearances have significantly influenced the public’s perception of the Seiko brand.

As a result of such influential marketing, Seiko watches have experienced increased demand, with certain models becoming more sought-after and harder to obtain than others. The power of marketing has elevated Seiko to a status that transcends popular culture and society. Even your everyday aunt or uncle is likely familiar with Seiko and may have owned one of their timepieces.

Notable Seiko Watch Collections

Here are some of the most noteworthy Seiko collections, each one featuring tons of models for you to choose from:

Seiko 5

Why is there a “5” in Seiko 5, and what does it signify? Seiko introduced this affordable collection over 50 years ago, encompassing five key features that were traditionally associated with more luxurious watches at the time. These features, presented in no particular order, include:

1. Automatic movement
2. Day-Date complication
3. Water resistance
4. Recessed crown
5. Stainless steel case and bracelet

Seiko 5 watches were designed to offer a combination of these desirable attributes, making them accessible to a wider audience without compromising on quality. The inclusion of these features has been a defining characteristic of the Seiko 5 collection, contributing to its popularity and enduring appeal.

My experience with the Seiko 5 comes in the form of the Seiko 5 SNKL23. I owned it for a brief period before passing it on to another watch collector. During my time with it, I found the black dial with multiple textures and dauphine hands to be simply stunning.

The case finishing was impressive, especially considering its affordable price, featuring a combination of brushed and polished finishes. Additionally, the exhibition case back allowed for a glimpse of the automatic movement.

As expected, the letdown of the SNKL23 watch, which is common in affordable timepieces, was the stainless steel bracelet. Watch brands often cut corners in this aspect. The bracelet had hollow end links, folded-over steel links, and a pressed steel clasp.

Nevertheless, owning the SNKL23 was an enjoyable experience, and including a Seiko 5 in one’s watch-collecting journey is worthwhile. Some popular Seiko 5 models worth mentioning are the SNZF17 (Sea Urchin), SRP series (5KX), and SNZH57 (Fifty Fathoms Homage).

In summary, Seiko 5 watches provide exceptional value for money, with prices starting as low as $100 (on the secondary market, of course). Where else can you find a watch that offers the five key features, along with original designs and a rich brand heritage? Seiko 5 truly stands out in the market.

Seiko Prospex

Prospex is simply a shortened form of “Professional Specification.” This collection represents Seiko’s professional and tool watches. According to Seiko, the Prospex line “challenges every limit, with a collection of timepieces for sports lovers and adventure seekers, whether in the water, in the sky, or on land”.  I’m sure you understand the essence of it.

The Prospex collection has seen a price increase in recent years as Seiko has elevated its positioning, and the Seiko 5 collection has expanded into the territory once occupied by Prospex. Prospex watches typically start from $400 and go higher, especially for their mechanical timepieces.

However, on the secondary market, you can find them at lower prices. Seiko has categorized the Prospex collection into Sea, Land, Speedtimer, and LX lines (which feature higher-end timepieces with Spring Drive movements). The primary focus lies within the first three categories, as they hold historical and aesthetic significance for Seiko. 

The more affordable Prospex models generally house the 4R35 or 4R36 movements, although Seiko is gradually incorporating more of the newer 6R-based movements into the collection. The 6R-based movements, such as the 6R35, offer impressive features like a 70-hour power reserve while maintaining a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour.

Out of all the Seiko collections listed, I have personally owned the most watches from the Seiko Prospex collection, as I am particularly fond of tool watches. I still own the Seiko Alpinist SPB209 and the Seiko “Baby Tuna” SRP637, both designed for specific uses for mountaineering and diving. Additionally, I plan to wear my Seiko Alpinist when I visit Japan in the near future.

Some notable watches from the Prospex collection include the Seiko Orange Monster SRP309, the Seiko Turtle SRPE03, the Seiko Alpinist SPB121, and the Seiko Marine Master SLA0 models.

Seiko Presage

Seiko describes their Presage Collection as a “combination of Japanese aesthetic sense, traditional craftsmanship, and Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills, resulting in an original collection that offers Japanese beauty, quality, and long-lasting performance”.

In short, Presage consists of dress watches that showcase Seiko’s distinct style and exquisite craftsmanship. The Seiko Presage collection is continuously expanding, leading to subdivisions within the collection. These include the Craftsmanship Series, Sharp Edged Series, Cocktail Time, Style 60’s, and Inspired by Japanese Gardens.

Personally, I have a preference for the Craftsmanship and Sharp Edged Series, as these collections are crafted to a higher standard. They often feature sapphire crystals and employ multiple finishing techniques on the watch cases. These timepieces are aesthetically pleasing and feel more valuable than their retail prices suggest, offering great value for money.

I previously owned the Presage SPB047J1/SARX049 from the Craftsmanship Series, which features a white enamel dial, blued hands, and Roman numerals on the dial. 

My only criticism of this watch (and most Presage watches) is that they tend to be slightly thick for dress timepieces. Dress watches are typically slim to fit comfortably under a shirt cuff. Although not excessively thick, my Seiko Presage would barely fit under most cuffs, but the 12.4mm thickness became apparent when viewed from the side profile.

Presage timepieces are generally priced at $400 and above. If Seiko continues to incorporate sapphire crystals, timeless designs, and neutral case sizes (under 42mm), these watches are excellent additions to any collection.

Some iconic models from the Presage collection include the Urushi dial Seiko SARW013, the limited edition blue enamel dial Seiko SPB069 and the Seiko Cocktail SRPB43J1.

Seiko Astron

Out of all the Seiko collections listed here, the Astron is the least familiar to me due to my preference for mechanical movement timepieces. However, this collection has been in existence since December 25, 1969. As mentioned earlier, the Astron’s introduction was a significant milestone in quartz technology for watches and had a profound impact on timekeeping. 

In the current iterations of the Astron, the timepieces incorporate solar and GPS technology. This combination of technologies proves to be incredibly useful. Seiko explains that “the Astron adjusts to your time zone at the touch of a button and, by harnessing energy from light alone, it never requires a battery change”.

Seiko designed the Astron with technological accuracy in mind. The GPS function in these timepieces automatically sets the time once a day, ensuring exceptional timekeeping precision. Additionally, the Astron is solar-powered, meaning that exposure to sunlight is sufficient to keep the watches charged and running.

Furthermore, a remarkable feature of the Astron is its ability to recognize all time zones on Earth through GPS technology. This makes the Astron an ideal watch for travelers.

In terms of pricing, the Astron belongs to the more premium range of Seiko collections, with its superior build quality and innovative technology. The retail price for Astron timepieces starts at $1,600. Some notable models from the Astron collection include the SSH100 series and the octagonal-shaped SBXY061.

King Seiko

King Seiko is the most high-end collection of mechanical timepieces from Seiko, as listed here (excluding Grand Seiko and Credor). According to Seiko, “King Seiko is a mechanical watch brand that offers beautifully designed and finished timepieces with high accuracy.”

Seiko recently reintroduced the King Seiko collection in 2021. Initially, King Seiko models were equipped with 6R movements, which received criticism due to the higher price point of King Seiko watches. To address these concerns, Seiko now offers high-end 6L movements (based on Grand Seiko Calibres) in King Seiko models.

The King Seiko collection pays tribute to Seiko’s heritage and embraces classic and elegant design elements. While the dials of King Seiko watches maintain a basic design, the highlight lies in the Zaratsu-like polished finish on the watch cases. 

This meticulous finishing technique creates multiple polished facets that shimmer when light hits them. Also, the hour and minute hands are finished to a high standard, creating beautiful facets and sharp edges. King Seiko timepieces evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of what one might envision their grandfather wearing back in the day.

One criticism regarding the pricing of King Seiko timepieces is that many of them have a retail price above $2,500. At that price point, one is in close proximity to Grand Seiko Quartz timepieces, which offer a higher level of craftsmanship.

Although King Seiko is a relatively recent reintroduction from Seiko, notable modern timepieces in their collection include the SJE087 (a recreation of the King Seiko KSK) and the SPB291 (Seiko Boutique Edition with violet dial).

Do Seiko Watches Hold Their Value?

First and foremost, it’s important to note that watches should not be considered traditional investments like stocks or bonds. They are meant to be enjoyed and experienced. While Seiko watches are not investments in the conventional sense, there are certain models that have increased in value and become highly sought after. 

These are primarily limited edition timepieces, such as the Zimbe editions and vintage Seiko watches. The growing community of Seiko watch collectors and the brand’s rising popularity have contributed to the demand and collectability of these pieces.

I have personally owned several Seiko watches, and one that I regret selling is the Seiko Monster V2 (Made in Japan model). Since its discontinuation, prices for this watch have skyrocketed in the secondary market. The iconic orange dial color and the shark teeth-like hour markers make the Seiko Monster V2 highly sought after.

Another Seiko timepiece that increased in value is the Seiko 5 SNKL23, which Hodinkee described as “A Seventy-Five Dollar Watch That Looks Like A Million Bucks.” I sold it and made a small profit. These examples serve to illustrate that Seiko watches can retain value and potentially be seen as investments. However, it’s important to prioritize the enjoyment of owning watches and not solely focus on their investment potential.

Should You Buy a Seiko Watch?

My answer is a resounding “YES!” I have been collecting watches since 2014. In the famous words of Drake, I “started from the bottom” with Seiko and Orient timepieces. Seiko should unquestionably be a part of every collector’s watch collection and journey. 

It allows collectors to develop a deeper appreciation for their collection and the quality of timepieces available at various price points. Seiko can be seen as a rite of passage for collectors as they curate their collections and evolve over time.

Conclusion

In summary, Seiko watches are excellent due to their affordability, durability, and iconic status in popular culture. Having owned several Seiko watches myself, including the more budget-friendly models like the Monster, Baby Tuna, and Alpinist collections, I can confidently say that they make fantastic daily wear timepieces. 

However, it is important to address the perception that Seiko watches are solely inexpensive and lacking in technical sophistication. While Seiko does offer affordable options, their range also includes in-house movements, a diverse selection of timepieces, and impressive durability. These factors, coupled with their iconic designs, make Seiko watches a valuable addition to any collection. 

Therefore, watch collectors should wholeheartedly embrace and explore the Seiko brand, as it serves as an ideal starting point for anyone entering the world of watch collecting.

Seiko. We all know the Beast from the East and their ability to create some of the most respected and loved divers on the market, all at a great price. The Pepsi color scheme might have started with Rolex but has been adopted by various companies across the globe, including Seiko. Using this bi-color scheme along the bezel evokes a feeling of sportiness, but also vintage warmth due to the numerous old GMT Master Pepsi watches you’ve seen on Instagram. 

In case you don’t have around $20,000 to spend on a watch and you still want the Pepsi scheme, there might just be a Seiko to fit your wrist – literally. 

About Seiko Pepsi Diver Watches

Seiko didn’t originate as a watchmaking company but as a shop selling and repairing clocks in central Tokyo. After securing a factory in Tokyo, entrepreneur Kinato Hattori managed to create his first clock in 1892. 

The Seikosha factory (Seiko means “exquisite” or “success”) continued producing clocks for twenty-one years before veering into the world of pocket watches. In 1913, Seiko produced its first wristwatch called ‘The Laurel’, which also happened to be the first wristwatch made in Japan. 

The first dive watch made by Seiko saw daylight in 1965. A mechanical watch offering 150m of water resistance with extreme legibility and durability. In fact, the watch ended up being used in Antarctic explorations during the 60s. And since then, Seiko has been one of the leading innovators of dive watches. 

Should You Buy A Seiko Pepsi Diver Watch?

Yes! Absolutely! 

Well, if you’re not as impulsive as me, let me throw some facts at you. First and foremost, Seiko is one of the most cost-effective ways to get an automatic Pepsi watch. What’s more, you won’t be getting a timepiece that’s low quality. Hop on over to any SKX forum, and you’ll be met with thousands of pleased owners. 

One thing to note is that some of the older Seiko models do tend to be on the larger side. While this isn’t a cause of concern for most of us, Seiko has listened to its fans and slimmed down its contemporary offerings. 

Otherwise, if you like the design and can afford it, you cannot go wrong. It’s not a GMT-Master II Pepsi, but then again, you shouldn’t buy a Pepsi Seiko expecting that. It’s its own thing and should be judged appropriately. 

The Best Seiko Pepsi Divers You Can Buy

1. Seiko SKX009

In case you’re new to watches, the SKX is one of the most iconic watches on the planet. The SKX is no longer being produced, and unfortunately, the SKX prices have soared online. 

The SKX series was loosely based on the ref. 7002 and released in 1996. The SKX009 offers the wearer a 42mm steel case matched with the iconic red and blue bezel color combo. The 200m water resistance, impressive ISO 6425 certification, and in-house 7S26 movement create one of the best first watches you can get your hands on – or could’ve. 

As mentioned, the SKX range has been discontinued, and prices have been increasing steadily over the years. The matte blue-dialed Pepsi diver has become iconic over the years, but, unfortunately, its fame has made it less accessible to some of us. 

2. Seiko “Twilight Blue” SPB097

If you want something more contemporary compared to the SKX, perhaps this ref. SPB097 with a gorgeous light blue (or ‘Twilight Blue’) dial is the one for you. Sporting a 44mm polished steel case with a matching three-link bracelet. For improved wearability, the crown has been moved to the four o’clock position, similar to the SKX. 

The automatic 6R15 caliber powers the diver with a 50-hour power reserve and an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. The SPB097 dial layout keeps things classic, with a simple date aperture at 3 o’clock. The main attraction, of course, is the blue dial. The color works brilliantly with the Pepsi color combo on the bezel. Finishing things off with a 200m water resistance rating, the diver is a good option, even at the higher price of $1,150. 

3. Seiko “Sumo” SPB181

The ‘Sumo’ has been a beloved model since its introduction in 2007 and is called the ‘Sumo’ due to various design features like the large rounded case. The ref. SPB181 is part of the third generation and sports a 45mm polished steel case along with a matching three-link bracelet. 

45mm might seem extremely large; however, thanks to the snug 52.6mm lug-to-lug, it wears slightly smaller. Also, the crown has been moved to the 4 o’clock position to allow for better wearability. 

A black dial is matched with the recognizable Pepsi bezel, which is graded to 60 minutes, so you can use it to time your dives or how long your boss talks about his new GT3 RS. The trustworthy 6R35 caliber offers great timekeeping and 70 hours of power reserve. 

4. Seiko SSC795

Someone once told me, “If you need to know the date while diving, you’re probably screwed”. The ref. SSC795 offers even more utility than just a date function with the addition of a 60-minute chronograph. What’s more, it’s a solar-powered watch.  

The solar caliber V192 allows the watch to work without you ever worrying about a power reserve or battery life. The 6 o’clock subregister displays a power reserve rated at 6 months when fully charged. But fear not; the screw-down crown does allow for 200m of water resistance, so you’ll still be able to go diving (or desk diving). 

This diver is relatively robust, 44.5m in diameter and 13.7mm thick, but the unidirectional Pepsi dive bezel does take up quite a lot of the real estate. This might be an excellent offering for those who are actually looking to go diving and need the ability to time two different events. 

5. Seiko “Turtle” SRPE99

“Alright, but I’m not going diving, I just want the look”. 

Perfectly understandable, and for you, a Pepsi ‘Turtle’ would be a great fit. Not the real nomenclature used by Seiko, but rather a nickname from the fans referring to the turtleback shape of the case. 

The case is sizable at 45mm but wears more like 44mm due to the smaller lug-to-lug profile. To increase wearability, the crown has been moved to the 4 o’clock position on account of the odd case shape. 

Behind the Hardlex crystal sits a blue dial that matches the blue of the Pepsi bezel. The large applied hour markers and hands are filled with LumiBrite for those late nights at the office (or pool). Of course, the automatic 4R36 caliber allows for a smooth second hand whilst also displaying the day and date. 

6. Seiko SNE591

If the turtle shape isn’t likely to make an appearance in your watch box, perhaps something more classic like the ref. SNE591. Priced at just below $1,000 for a wearable and highly polished case with a reliable solar movement – not bad. 

The black dial is accentuated by large hour markers and hands as is traditional with Seiko divers but with the addition of a subtle date aperture at the 3 o’clock position. The Pepsi dial fits beautifully and is somewhat reminiscent of the SKX from years ago. 

7. Seiko “Samurai” SRPF09 

The ‘’Samurai’’ SRPF09 offers extremely great value, priced at $550 for one really attractive timepiece. Working from the inside out, we have the reliable 4R35 caliber taking care of time, offering 41 hours of power reserve as well as a date display. 

Moving onto the gem of the watch is the black dial with a gorgeous wave-like pattern. The minute hand is lined with red for a touch of sportiness in case the Pepsi bezel scheme wasn’t enough for you. 

A 43.8mm brushed steel case is matched with a screw-down crown with added knurling in case your immediate area becomes slippery. Matched with a steel three-link bracelet with a three-fold clasp. 

Another feature the keen-eyed viewer might have noticed is the ‘PADI’ scripture on the dial. This is in reference to the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, the world’s leading scuba diving training organization. Seiko has an official partnership with PADI. 

8. Seiko 5 SRPD53

We mentioned the SKX multiple times already, and upon its discontinuation, fans were, predictably, distraught. Seiko hit back with the ‘5’ series, an affordable range of dive or tool watches that’ll look at home on the wrist of a teenager or seasoned diver who needs a beater. 

The ref. SRPD53 is priced at $325 for a reliable and trustworthy automatic watch, a deal if I ever saw one. The blue on the dial perfectly matches the blue on the Pepsi bezel identically, and the reliable 4R36 caliber takes care of timekeeping duties within.  Overall, a great overall package at a price point of entry that’s not prohibited to most. 

9. Seiko “Arnie” Pepsi SNJ027P1

What’s 40 + 40? If you answered 100 you’re most like a gym bro. In case you are (or aren’t), you might be interested in a watch worn by the Terminator himself – the “Arnie” ref. SNJ027P1. The original model was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in Commando (1985) and Predator (1987) and has been a fan favorite since. 

The contemporary ref. SNJ027P1 is handsomely finished and priced at $500 and features the much beloved Pepsi bezel. As with other “Arnie’s”, the watch is large, 47.8mm in diameter, and 50.5mm lug-to-lug. Despite this, the watch is quite light at only 114g, thanks to the not-so-subtle use of rubber around the steel inner case. 

The movement within is the solar H851 caliber and offers quite a few features, including an alarm function, a 1/100-second chronograph, a calendar display on the digital register, and in case you need to find the choppa in the dark, a LED light as well. 

10. Seiko SSC783

Rounding off the list, we have another robust chronograph sized at 43.5mm. The ref. SSC783 is presented with a blue dial and the all-famous Pepsi bezel scheme with a 60-minute grading. Large and full-bodied screw-down crowns allow for 200m of water resistance and, according to the Seiko website, are also good “for air diving”. 

The watch is powered by light thanks to the solar V175 caliber, granting the timepiece a theoretical power reserve of 6 months. The movement also displays various complications, including a chronograph, a 24-hour display, and a date function between the 4 and 5 o’clock position. 

Complimenting the steel case is a matching steel bracelet with brushed end links and polished center links, creating a nice dimension and luxurious touch. 

Conclusion

Quite a few options, right? Well, rather too many than too few, I always say. There is no doubt that the Pepsi scheme will keep on living on the bezels of watches ranging from luxurious options to more affordable Seiko’s seen in this list. 

With a variety of sizes, configurations, and dial colors, there is a Seiko Pepsi Diver for all of us. Whether you’re looking to go find Nemo or find your papers in your office drawer, have a look at the offering and just make sure to check the sizes, they tend to sneak up on ‘ya. 

To many contemporary collectors, Seiko’s fame rides mostly on their development of reliable dive watches. Ranging from affordable and utility-focused executions to high-end masterclasses in case finishing and movement technology that is some of the best in modern watchmaking, Seiko has released a dive watch that will please almost every collector. 

Within groups of Seiko enthusiasts, many models have been given affectionate nicknames, often referencing their appearance. One famous dive watch has risen to the status of cult favorite, the Seiko “Captain Willard.” The nickname does not stem from the design of the model but from its history and involvement in an iconic film, Apocalypse. 

History of Seiko Dive Watches

The first Seiko dive watch was the reference 6217, most commonly referred to as the 62MAS for Model Automatic Selfdater. The 62MAS was produced from 1965 to 1968, featured 150 meters of water resistance, and had the automatic calibre 6217 inside, with 17 jewels and an 18,000 bph beat rate. The two versions were designated the 6217-8000 and 6217-8001, with the latter receiving a larger crown design.

About the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard”

The famed “Captain Willard” reference 6105 was produced from 1968 to 1977, meaning this iconic reference was only the second production dive watch produced by Seiko. Still water resistant to 150 meters, an improvement was made to the automatic movement, including a higher 21,600 bph beat rate.

Two references were produced, the 6105A, which included a non-hacking movement, and the 6105B, which could be hacked for accurate setting. Neither model included the ability to be hand wound. Also of note is that neither of these models featured clicking, uni-directional bezels. They were only friction-fitted bi-directional bezels.

The black bezel features markings going all the way around instead of hash marks for only the last 15 minutes, as commonly seen on other divers. It was not until the second generation of the reference 7002, which was in production from 1988 to 1996, that Seiko would include a spring-loaded uni-directional bezel seen on modern divers today.

When Apocalypse Now was released in 1979, the character Captain Willard, played by Martin Sheen, was wearing a Seiko reference 6105. Eagle-eyed Seiko enthusiasts noted the watch and thus nicknamed the timepiece the “Captain Willard.”

Seiko Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” Specifications

The case of the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard” is very similar to the Seiko “Turtle” case we know today. The asymmetrical cushion case measures 44mm wide without the crown, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug, with a 19mm lug width. The case asymmetry is due to the design of the crown guard, protecting the locking crown from hard knocks. 

While the case width seems quite large, the compact lug-to-lug keeps the watch wearable despite the tool-oriented size. This allows the watch to be large and easy to read while still easy to wear for a large variety of wrist sizes. The Seiko Hardlex crystal had anti-reflective characteristics, ensuring legibility in a variety of environments and also providing shatter resistance that sapphire does not. 

The dial of the Seiko reference 6105 “Captain Willard” is black, with square and rectangular indices. The twelve o’clock marker is doubled and comes to a point at the bottom. The six and 9 o’clock markers are longer rectangles, with the remaining markers being smaller squared-shaped indices. 

The hour and minute hands are rectangular in shape, with a shovel-shaped seconds hand, that mimics the 12 o’clock marker. The indices and hands are all lumed, allowing for low light reading. Additionally, there is a framed date window with a white disk and black print at three o’clock.

The reference 6105 original came with a black, textured rubber strap. Compared to many modern rubber straps, these were hard and brittle. They were pretty durable, but they often lived hard lives, making finding an original very difficult indeed.

If you are searching for a strap for the original look, many period-correct-looking straps on the market provide modern comfort and wearability. The Seiko 6105 retailed for $95 back in 1968, which is the equivalent of $828 as of June 2023. 

Modern Seiko “Captain Willard” Watches

With the legacy of the reference 6105, Seiko has iterated on the iconic watch, releasing a variety of modern references that pay homage to the original while making changes to provide a broader range of options to collectors.

Seiko SPB151 & SPB153

These two references harken to the 6105 “Captain Willard” in their case shape and dial design. The SPB151 brings back the iconic black dial but now offers a factory steel bracelet. The SPB153 comes with a green dial and bezel with a black rubber strap. Both references are smaller than the 6105, measuring 42.7mm wide, 46.6mm lug-to-lug, 13.2mm thick, and 20mm lug width. 

Both steel watches have a super hard surface coating and are rated to 200 meters of water resistance with a screw case-back and screw-down crown. Inside is the 6R35 movement, offering 70 hours of power reserve, with a stated accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds a day. The movement has 24 jewels, hacking seconds, and a date display. 

The dials are covered by a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective surface coating. The bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a lock, push button release, and dive extension. The rubber strap uses a conventional pin buckle to secure the watch to the wrist. The bezel is a unidirectional ratcheting type with similar markings to the 6105. 

These two references may be the closest to the original intention of reference 6105, “Captain Willard.” While many changes have been made, they improve the durability and wearability of the watch. The SPB151 retails for $1300, and the SPB153 retails for $1100. While a bit more than the original 6105 when adjusted for inflation, the modern upgrades should make the increase in price worthwhile. 

Seiko SPB237

If you like the idea of the SPB151 or SPB153 but want more of the vintage aesthetic, you might have if you found an original reference 6105, “Captain Willard,” the SPB237 is worth considering.

Featuring the same case and movement as the SPB151, the SPB237 features a black bezel with faded markers and a textured grey dial with faux vintage lume that results in an overall aged look. To continue with the previous military-issued vibe of this watch, it is fitted with an olive green nylon strap.

Retailing at $1300, it is the same price as the SPB151 on a bracelet. While you may not get the value of the metal bracelet, if this is the style you’re after, the premium will be worth the extra charm. 

Seiko SLA033

With a price tag of $4250 and as a limited edition 2500 pieces, the SLA033 is less of a direct modern version of the reference 6105 and more of a love letter to the original “Captain Willard,” making it up in the best of what Seiko has to offer. 

The stainless steel case measures 45mm wide, 49.7mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick, and has 19mm lugs, very close to the original. Improvements are made with the 200 meters of water resistance. The case has a super hard coating but goes through the same Zaratsu polishing technique on the case and bezel as used on Grand Seiko and Credor watches. 

The watch is hand-assembled in the same Shizukuishi studio as Seiko’s high-end brands, meaning the attention to detail with this reference is up there with the best companies in watches. 

The black dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, and there is a LumiBrite lume on the hands and indices. The bezel is also stainless steel, making it more durable and premium than the original aluminum inserts.

The 8L35 movement offers a 50-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, a hacking seconds hand, and date function, and is rated to +15/-10 seconds a day. The 8L series movements are also finished to a higher standard than the 6L movements seen in the SPB151. 

The rubber strap is also similar to the original but made with modern comfort in mind. The watch is secured on the wrist with a stainless steel pin buckle. 

The SLA033 is very much for those that love the style of the original reference 6105 “Captain Willard,” but demand to have the best watch possible. The SLA033 is Seiko’s take on a premium and modern “Captain Willard.”

Conclusion

With many fans of the iconic movie and Seiko building their reputation for making reliable watches, it is not surprising that the reference 6105 “Captain Willard ” has cultivated the fan base that it has over the years. Seiko’s unique designs separate them from other big brands, making them standouts in an overcrowded market of conventional dive watches. 

Whether you are a fan of Apocalypse Now, in need of a trusted diver, or simply appreciate Seiko’s designs and build quality, any reference from an original 6105 to the luxurious SLA033 will likely serve any enthusiastic collector well.