Home / Blog / Archives for Huzeifa Jafferjee

Author: Huzeifa Jafferjee

15 BEST Cartier Watches For Women You Can Buy Today (2023)

Posted on August 22, 2023August 22, 2023 by Huzeifa Jafferjee

Cartier is an iconic name in watchmaking besides its embellished history of being a jeweler to the society’s elite, described by King Edward VII as “the jeweler of kings and the kings of jewelers”. Obsessed with design, Cartier has held its own as a watchmaker.

Its unique history in Art Deco-inspired high watchmaking has led them to create many icons of timeless elegance, molding itself into the modern-day “king of design” in the luxury watch industry. For perspective, we can call Rolex the king of sports watches and Patek Philippe, the king of complications.

From a Maison that is not born from watchmaking, it is second to Rolex. This was achieved by the brand’s focus on elegant design rather than complications, committing to the return of CPCP “Cartier Privé Cartier Paris” design language, or simply said, its original language of design.

With a focus on shape, elegance, refinement, sophistication, and attention to detail, it has revitalized the brand in recent years. About 60-70% of its sales are from a female clientele, and while having the “strongest identity in design” in the watchmaking industry, most or all of its designs are genderless. This offers a great degree of collectability available to the female audience, with an exquisite collection to unfold.

The History Of Cartier Watches

Cartier was founded in 1847 when Louis Francois Cartier took over his master’s workshop on 29 Rue Montorgueil amidst the ongoing French Revolution. 9 years later, Princess Mathilde, cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, purchased a Cartier creation and paved the way for the Maison to have access to the Parisian high society and the international elite.

In 1874, his son Alfred Cartier took over and was instrumental in introducing Cartier into the Royal Houses of Europe and beyond. It would be his sons Louis, Pierre, and Jacques who would aspire to transform the business from a local destination into an international luxury powerhouse with its boutiques in Paris, London, and New York. Each branch would operate independently of the other, making for an extraordinary archive of collectible and unique timepieces and jewelry pieces.

In 1898, grandson Louis, the eldest sibling, joined the Maison and would play a pivotal role in its evolution. He would establish the new boutique at Rue de la Paix in the jewelry district of Paris and would influence some of the company’s most celebrated designs like the mystery clock and exotic Art Deco designs like the “Tutti Frutti” jewels.

He would also create watches that would become the blueprint for its future collection. In 1905, he made history by releasing the first wristwatch, sports watch, and pilots watch when he created the Santos Dumont for his friend and pioneer in aviation Alberto Santos Dumont, who inspired the need for Louis to design the first pilots wristwatch that could be worn on his wrist during flight, and whom the timepiece is named after.

Another hugely successful design to this day would be his creation of the iconic Cartier Tank in 1917, inspired by an industrial design in the form of the top-down view of a Renault armored tank used in WWI– an elegant, timeless, loved, and cherished piece of design to this day.

Cartier watches have a history of appreciation from some of the most influential, famous, and style-conscious women. For perspective, Audrey Hepburn, a star of the silver screen, was seen wearing a Gold Cartier Tank in her role in Breakfast at Tiffany’s 1961. She was known to adore the watch and added it to her private collection.

Princess Diana was also known to wear a gold tank on several occasions. Kate Middleton has followed her effortless style, having been spotted wearing the Ballon Bleu and the Tank Française.

More First Ladies have chosen Cartier than any other watch brand– Jackie Kennedy famously received her first Cartier Tank when she became FLOTUS. Michelle Obama followed suit sporting her tank Francaise in her first official White House photo, and Dr. Jill Biden became the third first lady to wear a Cartier watch, having been seen wearing a gold Panthère de Cartier.

Last but not least, many celebrities– Madonna in the 80s, Gwyneth Paltrow in the 90s, and 2000s onwards, Sienna Miller, Anne Hathaway, Zendaya, Uma Thurman, Rihanna, and Dua Lipa have all been spotted wearing a Panthère de Cartier. The list can go on, and it is fair to claim that Cartier watches are an essential accessory for successful women.

What’s The Status Of Cartier Today?

Cartier remained under family control from its founding until 1964; today, it is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Swiss Richemont Group but remains headquartered in Paris. Built in the 2000s, its modern and high-end watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds Switzerland is over 30,000 square meters and one of the largest in Switzerland together with the Rolex and Omega manufacture.

For three consecutive years, Cartier has usurped Omega as the second-largest luxury watch brand by revenue, with a turnover of CHF 2.75 billion in 2022. This achievement is thanks to the widespread recognition of its extraordinary archives in recent years, the influence of A-list celebrity hype (seen on the wrists of Kanye West & Tyler The Creator), and its refocus on its icons rather than complications.

Another noteworthy mention could be that with the widespread popularity of high-end watches in recent years and the unavailability of timepieces from its near equivalent in perceived luxury “Rolex”, Cartier’s approachability in the form of its iconic collections has influenced its recent success.

Given Cartier’s dual purpose as a jeweler and a watchmaker, its ability to serve its female clientele has set it apart from other well-known watchmakers. With an organic and poetic vision to design, its focus on creating beautiful objects with elegant and balanced proportions rather than highly complicated movements that fit into larger cases has made its designs neutral or unisex, thereby perpetually enriching the choice of great watches for its female clientele.

Best Cartier Watches For Women

If you’re interested in purchasing a Cartier ladies’ watch, there are tons of options to choose from. Here’s a list of the best Cartier watches for women you can pick up brand-new in 2023:

Cartier Tank Must Small (ref. WSTA0042)

The WSTA0042 is the entry point within the Cartier Collection. The “Must” nameplate was first launched in 1977 during the quartz crisis. It was a subdivision of Cartier’s iconic Tank collection, equipped with a quartz movement and vermeil gold cases at a more affordable price; it was incremental for the brand to cater to the masses or growing upper middle class while offering the design hallmarks of the original iconic Tank Louis.

The Must collection recently returned to the fold, and with that, the Must Small. The new Musts would be offered exclusively in steel with a high autonomy quartz movement. Its classical design is most appealing, retaining the classical case shape and aesthetics of the original Tank Louis (only offered in precious metals and with mechanical movements), a timeless design over a century old.

The combination of steel and quartz allows Cartier to offer low barriers for entry due to its price of only $2,950. Its case dimensions of 29.5 x 22mm and thickness of only 6.6mm make for a daily wearable, versatile, and pure Tank experience on the wrist.

Cartier Panthère Medium (ref. WSPN0007)

The Panther is Cartier’s iconic animal; its symbolism and elegance have greatly inspired Cartier’s creativity since 1914.

Louis Francois Cartier’s right-hand woman and design director Jeanne Toussaint, who signed off all luxury creations under the house between 1933 and 1970, would be famously nicknamed “La Panthère” – a tribute to her obsession with the feline that influenced her unique style and inspired her to create some of the Maison’s most prized pieces of jewelry.

Cartier presented the first “commercial” line of the Panthère in 1983, and after a brief production hiatus in 2004, it returned in 2017 to the permanent collection. The Medium WSPN0007 is a full stainless steel model with dimensions of 27mm x 37mm and a thickness of 6mm, making for a daily wearable versatile watch.

As a renaissance watch, it remains aesthetically unchanged from its predecessor, sporting a curvaceous case based on the Santos attached to a link bracelet. Its case marries effortless elegance with functionality, featuring curved edges, fluid crown guards, and the now iconic square bezel with rounded corners secured by eight screws (mirrored on its caseback).

This is combined with a classic silvered dial with printed elongated Roman numerals, a railroad minute track that frames its center, and blued sword hands offering contrast, matched to a synthetic sapphire cabochon on its crown, overall making for a signature Cartier look.

Its fluidity in design is carried through its completely polished bracelet, with small brick-like links attached to one another; the links are curved, offering less weight, more movement, and more comfort than other Cartier alternatives. As a steel model dressed in high finishing, combined with a quartz movement, priced at $5,200, this model is an approachable icon and a highly elegant ladies-focused offering.

Cartier Ballon Bleu Pink Dial (ref. WSBB0046)

We know Cartier is most celebrated for its iconic case shapes; the Ballon Blue is one of its most contemporary yet unfamiliar designs due to its rounded form. While it doesn’t have the rich heritage of its iconic angular cousins, since its launch in 2007, it has become one of the most significant collections of Cartier.

This steel WSBB0046 comes in a case size of 33mm threading the lines between modern and chic in terms of wearability. It also allows for the inclusion of an automatic movement. Although appearing traditionally rounded in typical Cartier fashion, the design is unique and unmistakable.

This is accentuated by its pebble-like design, featuring a domed face and a domed caseback, accompanied by a narrow bracelet attached to short lugs. Its short lugs help the watch to wear smaller than its case size would suggest.

This model features a salmon pink dial, a color usually reserved for haute horology pieces. It is unique and bold, with silver Roman numerals printed along its periphery (its symmetry is broken for the inclusion of the winding mechanism integrated into its rounded case), a railroad minute track frames the center of its dial, and at its center is an embossed guilloche pattern.

Blued sword hands offer a contrast with a matching cabochon. Its aesthetics are in keeping with Cartier’s signature design language, with a twist of color. It is priced at $6,200.

Cartier Tank Française Small Gold Diamonds (ref. WJTA0039)

Cartier’s collection of iconic shapes is unprecedented; when the Tank Française was released in 1996, it was among the many evolutions of the original Tank Louis. Though late to the party, its integrated bracelet seamlessly extending from its bran-chards made for an incredibly versatile design and gained it a legion of followers.

This year, Cartier revamped the model retaining its jewel/bracelet watch DNA, modernizing the design, and evolving its lines to be a bolder, sportier, and more cohesive package.

The Small WJTA0039 is one of the exquisite models within the Française lineup, featuring a full 18k yellow gold case (25.7mm x 21.2mm) and bracelet construction, combined with 22 brilliant cut diamonds embedded along its bran-chards and a matching diamond embedded in its crown that is partially integrated into its caseband (overall totaling 0.78 carats in diamonds).

Its new golden sunray dial blends harmoniously with its predominantly brushed precious yellow metal case. Retaining the traditional Cartier aesthetic we know of, it has bold Roman numerals in gunmetal gray, a railroad minute track framing its center, and blued sword hands.

It also has a quartz movement, which will be pretty low maintenance, a luxury perhaps for a watch that is not defined by its movement, but by its design. This angular, chiseled, industrial piece of art can be had for $29,000.

Cartier Ballon Bleu Rose Gold Diamond Dial (ref. WGBB0052)

The WGBB0052 is a dressier take on the traditional Ballon Bleu, with a precious metal case, a diamond-encrusted dial, and an alligator leather strap. It is a tribute to the versatility of its pebble-like case shape and follows unwritten rules of being a unique dress watch to add to your collection.

This model comes equipped with a 33mm solid 18k rose gold case. It maintains the symmetrical lines of all traditional Ballon Blue’s with its domed pebble shape on its face and caseback and an integrated crown in its round case breaking the dial’s symmetry.

The main highlight of this model is its matt silvered stamped sunray dial set with 21 brilliant cut diamonds, totaling 0.10 carats. For contrast and in keeping with classic Cartier design language, it features blued hands with a matching sapphire cabochon set into its crown.

To complement its iconic “blue theme”, its alligator leather strap is blue (equipped with an 18k rose gold buckle to match the case), transforming its wearability and highlighting the presence of its unique case shape better than its bracelet contemporaries. It comes with an automatic movement and is priced at $15,600.

Cartier Panthère Small Diamonds (ref. W4PN0007)

Exclusively made for women, an iconic heritage design (40 years old, based on a century-old design) with a cult following from a high watchmaking Maison and jeweler of the elites, offered with a factory diamond setting, a steel case and bracelet, a quartz movement, and therefore affordably priced at $8,400, is an unheard combination of specifications that remains exclusive to Cartier in its W4PN0007 offering.

Like the Medium WSPN0007 mentioned earlier, the small W4PN007 is an identical model in smaller proportions combined with a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its 23 x 30mm stainless steel case with 6mm thickness offers a more elegant, feminine, and jewelry-focused wearing experience.

For powerful women who want an iconic and fashionable watch worn by the world’s most chic and famous women, with a gem set handled by the world’s leading jewelry maker, combined with the daily robustness of steel and its low-maintenance quartz movement, it is a perfect crossroad of female horology and the world of jewelry.

Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat™ (ref. WSTA0061)

The WSTA0061 saw its release in 2021 as a true Tank distilled down to its essence, accompanied by what would be deemed a modern revolution of the “Tank Must de Cartier” of old, due to its movement that draws power from the sun, instead of a quartz movement that made the “Must” nameplate so popular.

Solar is a brand new technology for Cartier, and a huge selling point is the carefree nature of this movement, with the ability to go through 16-year battery change intervals, twice that of the high autonomy quartz movements Cartier offers.

Compared to the modern Tank Solo line, the vertical bran-chards of the Tank Must are rounded to resemble the Tank Louis, therefore retaining the case shape and lines of the original Tank. This Small model is aesthetically identical to the current production “WSTA0042” mentioned in our list.

With bold Roman black numerals printed along the periphery of its rectangular dial (solar cells hidden beneath), accompanied by a railroad minute track that frames the center of its silver opaline dial, sword-shaped heat-blued hands offer contrast, with a matching synthetic sapphire cabochon that sits atop a highly ornate crown. With its eco-friendly movement in mind, it comes standard on a vegan leather strap.

Cartier Panthère Mini Rose Gold Diamonds (ref. WJPN0020)

The Panthère is a power watch for women, just like the “Rolex Day Date” is for men. In 1983, it was born in the midst of the quartz crisis and helped keep the Maison’s exclusive customers happy during a time when Cartier was appealing to a mainstream audience following the launch of the Must de Cartier collection.

The Panthère was a bold move from Cartier. While many luxury brands were hurting selling luxury pieces, its unyielding focus on luxury, design, and the Maison’s “je ne sais quoi” has made it an icon. It is no surprise that Cartier dedicates a diverse collection to the Panthère, embracing grand embellishments. Within lies the WJPN0020, with lots of diamonds.

This model features a solid 18k rose gold case and bracelet; its dimensions measure 25mm x 20mm and 6mm thick, making it one of the smallest offerings in the Panthère lineup. It is combined with the signature flowing brick-style bracelet that allows for the mini-sized piece to articulate properly on the wrist. Women will also appreciate its compactness and, therefore, lightness for a watch with a full 18k gold construction.

This reference highlights its many brilliant cut diamonds embedded into its case, bezel, lugs, and bracelet end links; the sapphire cabochon that sits atop its octagonal crown is replaced with a brilliant diamond to match. Its silvered dial is consistent with other Panthère models, with a railroad minute track and blued hands for contrast. Priced at $30,400, accompanied by a quartz movement, it is effortless high luxury packaged in an iconic, timeless design.

Cartier Ronde Must Small (ref. WSRN0030)

The Ronde can be described as Cartier’s most simple design within its vast offering of angular and irregular-shaped watches. In the horology industry today, most of us gravitate towards familiar round-shaped timepieces due to their versatility.

The Ronde is Cartier’s play in the circular watch segment. Louis Cartier’s own creation, offered in the late 1930s, today’s Ronde collection provides a timeless charm and exudes signature Cartier details that make it stand out amongst other circular dress watches.

This Small WSRN0030 is offered under the “Must” subdivision. It comes in steel, accompanied by a high autonomy quartz movement (with 8 years of power). Its 29mm round case with a thickness of 8.5mm is completely polished, with smooth lines, short inward bending lugs, and a highly ornate beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon.

It is effortlessly sophisticated, complimented by a signature Cartier dial in sandblasted silver, with bold black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track at its center, and blue sword-shaped hands. Paired with a black vegan leather strap, it’s a timeless essential and versatile daily wearer that many will love. Priced at a suitable $2,700.

Cartier Coussin Rose Gold (ref. WJCS0004)

The existence of the Coussin within Cartier’s collection reminds us that besides the Maison being an iconic haute horology watchmaker, it is also a haute jeweler. A tribute to its prowess in both extremes, it has a unique case shape and only comes embellished fully with diamonds.

The WJCS0004 is a medium-model quartz-equipped offering. Its solid 18k rose gold case is 30.4mm x 31.1mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.1mm. Its case resembles the aesthetics of a cushion, hence its “Coussin” nameplate and its design is complemented with a pattern of spiral-set diamonds.

With a matching diamond featuring on its ornate crown, it has 177 brilliant cut diamonds totaling 4.09 carats. Its exquisite jewelry-focused look is matched with an elegant sunray silver Roman numeral dial and a soft beige calfskin strap attached to hidden lugs behind its case. In a sea of iconic and unique designs, the Coussin is a focused tribute to Cartier’s high society flair. Priced at $32,500.

Cartier Tank Louis Small (ref. WGTA0010)

Designed and named after Louis Cartier himself, now over a century old design, the legacy of the Tank Louis preys upon the haute-ness of any retro icon in existence. Perpetuating its original blueprint since its inception (1917), this “original rectangular watch” is one of the most elegant, influential, and timeless designs ever created.

The Small WGTA0010 is offered with case dimensions of 29.5mm x 22mm, a thickness of 6.35mm, and a quartz movement. Its case is made fully of 18K yellow gold and is attached to a tan alligator leather strap with a matching 18k yellow gold buckle.

It has a silver-grained dial with bold black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track at its center, and contrasting blued sword hands that match the sapphire cabochon that sits atop its ornate crown. Its design language and aesthetics exude signature Cartier DNA and are the continued format of the Original Tank Louis. Priced at $10,200, it is essential for any haute horology lover.

Cartier Panthère Small Gold (ref. WGPN0039)

While the Panthère is known to be a soft, delicate, elegant, and feminine evolution of the Santos, an iconic and timeless design on its own, the WGPN0039 takes its elegance and evolution further with a double-loop bracelet based on the articulate brick style link bracelet that defines the Panthère collection. Its full gold construction and exotic-styled bracelet further lend its functionality as a timeless, highly recognizable timepiece towards becoming a statement piece of jewelry on the wrist.

Sized as a Small Panthère with a 23mm x 30mm 18k yellow gold case and a thickness of 6mm, it is well balanced in size and presence on the wrist with its novel double loop bracelet. Like all Panthère models, design is the main focus of this piece while benefiting from a low-maintenance quartz movement.

This model is a testament to the versatility in design of the Santos case that evolved into the Panthère and the versatility of the brick-style bracelet that was created for the Panthère. It is a package of historic high watchmaking and high-end bracelet-making that Cartier is known for. The best of both worlds can be had for a hefty $36,700.

Cartier Ballon Bleu Rose Gold (ref. WJBB0063)

Since its launch in 1983, the round watch from Cartier, the Ballon Bleu, has become a mainstay and a huge success in the collection. It is not uncommon to see it on the wrists of movie stars, political figures, and even royalty; Kate Middleton is famously known for choosing to wear hers frequently. The WJBB0063 takes the quintessential ladies’ Ballon Bleu with its signature elements and offers an uber-luxury combination of a precious metal construction and gem setting.

This model features a 33mm solid 18k rose gold case with compact lugs attached to a matching 18k rose gold interchangeable bracelet. Its sizing hits the sweet spot between being refined and contemporary on the wrist. In keeping with the wider preference of watch collectors of today, it features an automatic movement. The main attraction of this model is its full gem-set bezel consisting of 47 brilliant cut diamonds totaling 0.68 carats.

Its dial is silvered with a sunburst effect, bold black Roman numerals are printed along its periphery, with a railroad minute track at its center. Its hands are blued, offering contrast, with a matching sapphire cabochon set into its fluted crown.

Like all Ballon Bleu models, its crown is integrated into the case, breaking the symmetry of the dial. Its combination of precious metals, gem setting, mechanical movement, and usage of the classic Ballon Bleu template makes for a clean, simple, and timeless design that can be passed down to generations. It comes with a price tag of $32,900.

Cartier Pasha Diamonds (ref. WJPA0019)

The origin story of the Pasha begins in the early 1930s when the Pasha of Marrakesh (hence its “Pasha” nameplate) commissioned a waterproof watch from Louis Cartier so that he could go swimming with it. While the original design of this watch created in 1933 remains shrouded in mystery, the Pasha design we know today was penned by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 1985.

It is a rounded case design that doesn’t play by Cartier’s rule book, with a square railroad track on its dial, forgoing characteristic Roman numerals for Arabic ones. It also featured a diving bezel and a canteen-styled crown to hark back to its origin as a sports watch.

The WJPA0019’s party trick combines its iconic 80s design with an exquisite gem setting. It has a 30mm 18k white gold case, attached with a centralized lug design to an 18k white gold bracelet. The watch is completely gem-set with 425 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 7.3 carats.

It is complemented with a traditional Pasha-style opaline flinqué dial that has a square railroad track and blued steel sword hands for contrast. Typical of Cartier’s ladies’ models that are focused on aesthetics and extreme luxury, it comes with a convenient quartz movement. It is priced largely at $132,000, not for the faint-hearted.

Cartier Coussin Medium White Gold (ref. WJCS0012)

Cartier’s ability to communicate its language of design in the form of poetic case shapes is unprecedented. The Coussin is a design inspired by the shape of a cushion and is elevated through its exclusive usage of gem settings, harmoniously complementing one another. This model is also made to deform like a cushion, another element of storytelling in design achieved through the sensation of touch.

The WJCS0012 is a medium-sized offering with case dimensions of 39.3mm x 32mm and a thickness of 13mm. It is only offered with a quartz movement, which is the more convenient choice for a watch that is suited best for special occasions. Its flexible 18k white gold case is completely gem set, including its dial, in a swirl pattern.

This comprises 85 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.38 carat, 587 sapphires, 276 stavorites, 45 emeralds, and 18 tourmalines. Its blue-green persona is matched with a blue calfskin strap featuring a white gold buckle. Priced at $79,000, it is a unique and unmistakable offering, combining haute watchmaking with haute jewelry making that defines Cartier’s legacy.

Conclusion

Cartier stands proudly as one of the most recognizable watch brands in the industry today. Its established/rich history as a jeweler, and its pioneering commitment to beautiful designs (case shapes) that follow form before function, have led the Maison to create timeless icons that have captivated the minds of the most astute collectors.

In a time where precise/reliable timekeeping has easily become available to the masses, and haute horology merely exists through how it makes us feel; its visual storytelling and consistency of design language means that you know a Cartier when you see one. It is a love letter to the cultured art of fine watchmaking.

An In-Depth Guide to the ICONIC Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner

Posted on August 2, 2023August 8, 2023 by Huzeifa Jafferjee

Tudor is famously heralded as the sister brand of Rolex; following its takeover in 1936 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, the brand would contribute to achieving economies of scale and target a price-conscious market segment. To achieve this, Tudor would use third-party movements; but would hugely benefit from the sharing of technology, technical, aesthetic, and functional characteristics under the same roof as its hugely successful counterpart.

Fundamental to Tudors dive watch history was the introduction of the Tudor Oyster in 1947. The “Oyster” nameplate was first seen on Rolex models in 1926 to denote its water resistance. It was the first truly waterproof case, one of the most important milestones in watchmaking history, and a precursor to the purpose-built dive watch that would be released in 1953.

The first Tudor dive watch would follow the footsteps of the legendary Rolex Submariner, released in 1953, with the release of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 a year later to be the more affordable Submariner. This would mark the initial era of its dive watch lineup inspired by the 6204 and 6205 Rolex Submariner, mirroring its aesthetics, most notably the dial layout of the 6205.

The second era of Tudor Submariners began in 1969, with the brand finding its own identity in aesthetics to make for an equally iconic dial layout to the “OG” Rolex Submariner, also developed for the explicit needs of diving. It would utilize square hour markers with matching hands and would be recognized by collectors as “Snowflakes”.

About the Tudor Submariner (the Predecessor to the Snowflake)

Ready to capitalize on the winning formula of the very first Rolex submariner, the first dive watch from Tudor, the Oyster Prince 7922, was released in 1954. It was intended to be a budget-focused counterpart of the exceptional Submariner released the previous year, mirroring its design aesthetics, features, and robust characteristics.

Like the Rolex Submariner, it utilized a 37mm Oyster-case with a screw-down case-back and crown to reach a guaranteed depth of 100 meters.

It took inspiration from the 1954 Submariner 6205 reference dial layout that rewrote the book on legibility with its usage of lumed triangular, circular, and rectangular plots for hour indexes, with a lumed Mercedes hour hand, pencil-shaped minute hand, and seconds hand with a straight tip after the lollipop on a contrasting domed black dial with gilt logo/inscriptions and minute track, viewable under domed plexiglass commonly used in this era.

To precisely measure dive times and adjust decompression stages, it came equipped with a bi-directional rotatable bezel graduated in 5-minute intervals and a lume-pip at zero. All Tudor Submariners would use reliable third-party movements to cut down on costs to the end consumer, and the 7922 would be equipped with the self-winding Calibre 390 with 18,000 beats per hour.

Common to all Tudor Submariners, it shared components with its sister brand, such as its Oyster-case, screw-down crown, and Oyster-style riveted bracelet, all signed with the Rolex logo. All iterations of the 7900 series would follow the trend of piggybacking off Rolex’s proven back catalog and would only house a Calibre 390 movement.

The 7923 in 1955 would be a brief departure from this path, as it was the only reference to feature a manually wound movement (ETA Calibre 1182). It also featured a less legible pencil hour hand instead of the Mercedes hand and two cylindrical bars replacing the curved links that attached the Oyster-style bracelet to its case.

In 1958 the 7924 appeared, following the path of the Rolex Submariner 6200 from 1955, reverting to the characteristic Submariner hands and bracelet and offering 200 meters of water resistance with the use of a larger 8mm “Big-crown”, a thicker Plexiglas, and a thicker case.

In 1959, the 7928 reference followed and would be the most diverse reference in Tudor’s lineup being in production for nearly 10 years. Major changes in this reference were the adoption of a larger case size from 37mm to 39mm and the introduction of crown guards influenced by the needs of the French Navy.

With the usage of a smaller 6mm crown, it first had square crown guards; pointed crown guards followed in 1961, and later a refined rounded shape that would be retained for future models. The 7298 also saw many dial variations, with the shift from gilt text to silver, and finally white text, the usage of a closed to an open chapter ring, and gilt hands to silver hands.

History & Origin of the Tudor “Snowflake”

The 7928 and its adoption of a more “Professional” crown guard equipped 39mm case developed in conjunction with the needs of the French Navy was hence supplied to the French Navy and the U.S Navy for its professional use.

This signaled the direction for the next generation of Submariners from Tudor, departing from the Rolex aesthetic that defined the 7900 series. A quote by Mark Twain, ”There is no such thing as a new idea. It is impossible. We simply take a lot of old ideas and put them into a sort of mental kaleidoscope”.

This could not be truer for the impact the characteristic Rolex Submariner aesthetic has had on the 7900 series Tudors and for any dive watch that would follow its huge success and legendary status. Under the roof of the Crown, with the motive to differentiate its second generation of Submariners, did Tudor execute a new idea?

In 1969, Tudor presented a new face for its Submariner, but was it better than the iconic one it replaced? It used square indexes reminiscent of the 70s approach to design instead of the symmetrical and attractive round indexes.

These Submariners would be nicknamed “Snowflakes” due to the form of their indexes. With less negative space on the dial and more surface area for luminescence, it proved to be more functional and utilitarian than the rounded indexes of before. As a result, Snowflakes have been hugely praised by collectors as potentially the cooler, more professional, and less mainstream alternative to its iconic sibling.

The Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner 7016 & 7021

Developed for the explicit needs of divers, known to be specifically designed with the feedback of the Marine Nationale (to be more legible in low light conditions), the majorly changed Snowflake Submariners, the 7016 and 7021, were released in 1969. With them began the second generation of Tudor Divers.

The 7016 and 7021 were the first Submariners from Rolex or Tudor to be offered in blue (in addition to the standard black), a highlight of this and the models to follow, as even today, the Rolex Submariner range does not offer a blue dial variant for its steel models. It also finally did away with the Calibre 390 movement for ETA movements, which would prove to be easier to service.

The 7016 was equipped with a 39mm case, a 60-minute bidirectional rotatable bezel, rounded crown guards, and 200m of water resistance, unchanged to that of its predecessor. Still features Rolex signed parts, such as its case, crown, and new Oyster Style non-riveted bracelet.

Its new Snowflake dial replaced the rose logo with a shield logo (a symbol of resistance and reliability) and featured square indexes that reciprocate with rectangular indexes at 15, 30, and 45, paired with a square on the hour hand and seconds hand (nicknamed “snowflake hands”). Visible under a no longer domed but flat Plexiglass crystal.

With the new reference followed a new caliber, the ETA 2483, with a frequency of 18,000 beats per hour, the same as the one it replaced. From the learnings of the Rolex Submariner Date 1680 arrived a date variation of the Snowflake, the 7021. It shared the exact specifications with its no-date counterpart, besides its date complication and, therefore, its ETA 2484 movement.

What is familiar is the usage of a Cyclops-type Plexiglass crystal, the same as that of its contemporary 1680, with a magnifying lens placed over the date aperture at 3 o’clock for easier reading. Seen for the first time was the usage of a roulette date disc, with black for uneven numbers and red for even numbers.

The Next Generation Tudor “Snowflake” Submariner 9401 & 9411

The 7016 and 7021 continued production untill the mid-70s, at which point they were subsequently replaced with the 9401 and 9411. These new references were offered simultaneously with a snowflake dial in black or blue (till circa 1983) or with the characteristic Submariner dial layout in either black or blue.

The 9401 and 9411 “new generation Snowflakes”, would share the same case lines and aesthetics with its predecessors. Its most important update for the time was the change to higher performance movements, being the modified ETA 2766 for the non-date version and 2784 (2783 in some cases) for the date version.

The new caliber would feature a hacking seconds function for precise time setting, the quickest date for date models (discontinuing the beloved roulette date wheel), 28,800 beats per hour, and a 42-hour power reserve to make for a very modern specification caliber, even today.

Another useful update would be the availability of different bracelets, one with Rolex oyster reference 7836/0 with a classic folding clasp or the 9315/0 with a “Fliplock” folding clasp and an extension link system to be used over a wet suit.

The “Blue Snowflakes” of this era are known to be the most collectible and definitive “Snowflakes” amongst collectors, as they are currently easier to source in good condition compared to their predecessors. This is due to early examples experiencing rotting or bubbling on their dials caused by a defect in the paint or water ingress. It is rumored that this was mitigated by the mid-1970s.

The blue colorway was made more available with the modern Snowflakes. The color is favored for embracing the spirit of diving better than black, better complimenting the patina created through time on its hands, indexes, and pearl on its bezel.

The “Black Snowflakes”, on the other hand, share a much closer resemblance to its contemporary Rolex Submariner; for that, they can be argued to be a little less interesting. These last Snowflake references also offer collectors the best of both worlds in usage, with vintage aesthetics and modern calibers underneath.

When was the Tudor “Snowflake” Discontinued

The Tudor Snowflake was discontinued in the middle of the 1980s, with the Submariner range continuing to be produced until 1999. When Tudor celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1996, it marked an end of an era as a sub-Rolex brand sharing components (cases, crowns, and bracelets) from the same parts bin.

Due to their storied heritage and unique history parallel to the most iconic divers watch ever, good examples of Snowflakes have become increasingly difficult to source. Also, since many of these examples were “budget Rolexes”, they were actually used as tools for their intended purpose and not babied like their contemporaries, many of which had seen life in a safe.

Currently, there are limited offerings online, with the blue Snowflakes having higher premiums than the black variants. Additionally, condition, age, delivery contents, maintenance history, and provenance are all points of consideration that will reflect on the end price.

Pricing currently ranges between $9,000 to as high as $30,000 or more for a perfect example or mil-spec variant. In some cases, they can even be priceless due to the Snowflakes’ iconic history.

At the time of writing this, I was able to find a listing online for a 9401/0 black (naked) without box and papers priced at $10,000 and a totally original blue 9411/0 with box and papers priced at $18,000. A 1680 Rolex Submariner of equal condition would be approximately double this value, so in comparison, vintage Tudors offer a lower entry point as a gateway to collecting them today.

Return of the Snowflake?

The Snowflake configuration that has been iconic to Tudors history was finally reintroduced to its collection at Baselworld 2012 with the combined launch of the Black Bay and Pelagos models.

Since then, the usage of Snowflake hands and dials in different variations of its tool watch lineup has become identifiable with Tudor in the modern day as it draws inspiration from its past while offering modern specifications with in-house movements, cementing the value it offers in the luxury tool watch segment.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue

The Black Bay models that have proven to be most popular in the modern chapter of Tudor, bringing back the characteristic Snowflake hands in 2012. This is paired with the aesthetics of the rounded indexes used in the 1958 7294 “Big Crown” Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, a model that inspired the “big crown” remastered Black Bay and Black Bay 58 with vintage cues like domed sapphires, and faux rivet bracelets.

In 2019, Tudor would surprise lockdown-tired enthusiasts when they released a “blue” Black Bay 58. This would further tie the modern watch with the history of the original Snowflake as it was identical in color to the iconic “Snowflake Blue” of old, with a 39mm case sized similar to that of the vintage Snowflakes; this stands as a worthy modern successor that reminds us of the original.

Tudor Pelagos 42

In 2012, Tudor wowed us with the release of the Pelagos 42mm, a modern specification titanium, 500m water resistant, helium escape valve equipped professional dive watch that drew inspiration from vintage Snowflakes, bringing back a full Snowflake dial.

It seemed appropriate that the utilitarian-focused Pelagos 42 would bring back the legible layout created specifically for the needs of the professional diver. Its host of features includes a fully lumed stepped snowflake dial (with a date window at 3 ’o clock), snowflake hands, a fully lumed uni-directional ceramic bezel for ultimate legibility, and a 42mm titanium case with unique pointed crown guards attached to a titanium bracelet with a bracelet extension equipped clasp.

It comes offered with a black dial and bezel, a bright blue dial and bezel, or as an LHD variant with a black dial and bezel and the return of the unique roulette date wheel seen on vintage Submariner Snowflake 7021s.

Tudor Pelagos 39

After the release of the Pelagos 42 (42mm) and the consequent release of the Black Bay 58 (39mm), enthusiasts knew that it would be within Tudor’s capability to give us a 39mm (toned down) Pelagos which would share the closest resemblance in sizing and wearability to the original 39mm Snowflakes. In 2022, Tudor finally gave us the modern-day equivalent of the Snowflake that we had all been waiting for.

A Pelagos 39 with a 200m water-resistant titanium crown guard equipped case, attached to a titanium bracelet with a t-fit clasp, sporting a cleanly executed no date sunburst black full Snowflake dial (with red Pelagos text), paired with a sunburst black ceramic full lume unidirectional dive-bezel.

While the materials used in comparison to the original Snowflakes have been modernized through the usage of titanium and ceramic instead of steel and aluminum, its elegant proportions and shared aesthetics offer a familiar experience.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

In 2021 Tudor gave us a military specification diver with the release of the Pelagos FXD. The brand would come full circle with its Marine Nationale history, with the new release drawing inspiration from the original Snowflakes through the usage of the highly legible Snowflake dial (originally created with feedback from the Marine Nationale).

Unlike its counterparts that were simply references listed in the catalog supplied to the military, the Pelagos FXD would be specifically designed with their preferences in mind making it the most hardcore and purposeful Snowflake to date.

It would feature a 42mm (200m water resistant) crown guard equipped titanium case with fixed lugs, a fully lumed full snowflake dial in navy blue, a matching navy blue fully graduated and fully lumed ceramic bezel (bi-directional for navigation) with deeper knurling, and would only be offered on a nato and a rubber strap. Like the vintage MN/year stamped caseback Submariners, the FXD would also see the continuation of the engraving offering a unique aspect of collectability to the modern-day collector.

Conclusion

Today, Tudor stands as an independent brand from Rolex with the freedom to draw inspiration from its past while fulfilling the requirements of delivering a modern specification tool watch; it has been celebrated for its value proposition by dive watch enthusiasts of the highest caliber.

The unique history of the original Oyster Prince Submariner Snowflakes made under the same roof as its sister brand Rolex, sharing components like cases, bracelets, winding crowns, and using more affordable movements, has made the Snowflake an icon of its own.

To further strengthen its significance, the Snowflake Submariners had a parallel path to that of the most iconic diver watch ever, with the adaptation of the Snowflake dial that was created through military feedback, making it essentially a version 2 of the characteristic Submariner layout.

In a parallel universe, perhaps Rolex would have loved the Snowflake layout for themselves, as it could be argued to be a more purposeful, legible, and better design. Certainly an icon.

Rolex Submariner vs Sea-Dweller: Battle of Two ICONIC Divers!

Posted on July 10, 2023July 24, 2023 by Huzeifa Jafferjee

Rolex is the legitimate king of luxury sports watches; its dive watches carry huge significance, history, and importance to its sports watch lineup. Using the oyster case that has been fundamental to its sports watch reputation and water resistance, the Submariner is the quintessential dive watch.

Among the first purposely built watches for diving, innovated, and made better generation upon generation, the Submariner is the champion of Rolex’s pursuits into the deep.

Rolex’s huge success in marketing, capitalization of growth, industry-leading evolution of its collection, originality, and high brand value, has made the Submariner an unchallenged icon 70 years since its inception.

A fundamental partner and participant in the huge success of its dive watch history is the Sea-Dweller in its many forms, essentially a hardcore variation of the Submariner. Sometimes this does bring forth the debate about which is better.

About the Rolex Submariner

The Submariner first saw light in 1953 and would make its official debut the following year. It was one of the earliest examples of a modern dive watch, only to be beaten to the market by the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms by a few months. The 6204 was the first Submariner reference and would be the first watch to reach a record depth of 100m.

The Submariner would follow an evolutionary development path throughout its 70-year existence and would see many variations with minor details and upgrades that make it one of the most collectible watches of today.

In 1954 the reference 6205 first featured its synonymous Mercedes hour hand; this was followed by the 6200 in 1955, which was the first “Big Crown” Submariner and also the first to feature 200m of water resistance. 1956 saw the introduction of 6538, which was made famous for being worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No (1962), giving the Submariner celebrity stardom early in its life, which hugely impacted its popularity.

1957 marked the first appearance of a military-issued Submariner with the reference A/6538, featuring fixed spring bars and a larger bezel made with German Silver for easy gripping and a tendency to dent and not crack. This would be followed in the 70s by the 5513, double-stamped 5513/5517, and the 5517. These were made to MOD specifications inspired by the MOD Seamaster, featuring updates like sword hands, crown guards, and a fully graduated bezel.

In 1959, the 5512 was the first commercial model to receive crown guards, and in 1967 the Submariner gained a date feature with the reference 1680 equipped with the iconic cyclops. This split the range into two, with a date or a no-date offering for purists who preferred the symmetrical dial. The date watches would also become available in precious metals like today.

The 5512 would be followed by the 5513 from 1962 to 1990, the longest production run to date, during which many changes would be made to the Submariner, replacing the gilt gloss dial with a meters first matte dial, followed by non-serif typography and larger indexes known as Maxi-dials.

The 5513 would share a timeline with the “Date Models”, 1680 and the 16800 (1977-1987). The latter would feature a sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown, making it the first Submariner waterproof to 300m, a number unchanged today in the modern line.

A new model would also be added to the steel or full gold offerings, which would be the first two-tone reference in 1984 available in either a bright blue or black, the watch that made the 80s a very successful and memorable era for two-tone watches.

The 168000 would introduce us to Rolex’s now proprietary 904L-Steel, followed by the 16610 (1987-2010), considered the first modern Submariner with premium white gold surround indexes and a modern movement, the COSC-Certified 3135. The “No-date” 14060 Submariner shared this modernity between 1990-2002. The 14060M would follow between 2002-2010 and became a Certified chronometer in 2007 with the 3130 movement; it would be the last Submariner to feature drilled lugs.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner in 2003, we were introduced to the “Kermit” Submariner 16610LV, replacing the black aluminum bezel of the 16610LN with a green one for the first time. The first of its kind to properly execute a daring color amongst luxury watch brands and a fitting color to commemorate its anniversary.

In 2008, to celebrate its 100th anniversary, Rolex paved the way for a newer, more luxurious, and indestructible Submariner, the “Smurf” 116619LB, that impressed with a host of updates like a maxi case, more durable and high-end ceramic bezel insert with gold/platinum markers, solid link bracelet, and new generation Glidelock extension equipped clasp that set a new benchmark on wearability.

In 2010, the rest of the Submariner collection finally received the same updates, introducing the 116610LN Black Date, 114060LN No date, combination, and full yellow gold models. The LV version of the 116610 would now feature a green sunburst dial and would be nicknamed the “Hulk”, becoming one of the most collectible modern references.

Always ahead of its time, highly engineered, with elegant, functional, and timeless beauty, the Submariner is an icon. It became the blueprint for any dive watch that was to follow and therefore is the ultimate realization of a professional dive watch through its timeline that has evolved with the needs of its wearers, collectors, and storytellers of its legacy.

Its ultimate status and versatility have made it the most sought-after and proven luxury sports watch in the modern era for almost any and every luxury sports watch enthusiast.

About the Rolex Sea-Dweller

The backstory of the Sea-Dweller and the quest to go deeper than ever imagined began way back in 1953 when history was made; an experimental Deep Sea Special was affixed to the exterior of an experimental diving vehicle known as the Trieste and survived an unseen crushing depth of 3,150m. This was followed in 1960 with the Deep Sea Special No 3, which made the trip down to an incredible 10,916m.

In 1967, Rolex would finally release the Sea-Dweller 1665 with 500m of water resistance, no cyclops, and featured an innovation inspired by the needs of COMEX divers that would become the hallmark of the Sea-Dweller, a helium escape valve at the side of the case to stop the crystals from popping off during decompression after full-saturation diving.

They would further test this technology with COMEX, a French diving company specializing in engineering and deep diving operations, forming a partnership in 1971. Among the 1665 Sea-Dwellers available to Comex for testing before its commercial launch in 1971, 5514 COMEX-only Submariners with helium escape valves were also provided.

The initial batch of the prototype 1665 Sea-Dwellers would be known as “Single-Red” and be replaced by the “Double Red” two-line red text model with an increased 610m of water resistance. In 1977, the Submariner text was dropped along with the choice of red text to white, and became known as the “Great-White”.

The 16660 would finally replace the 1665 reference in 1978, featuring a sapphire crystal allowing it to increase its depth rating to 1,220m. It was also equipped with a more modern movement, the 3035, with quickset date. A decade later, it was replaced by the 16600, which yet again received a more modern movement, the 3135 with a longer power reserve; and came with a black dial that featured three types of lume variations in its 20-year production run.

The Sea-Dweller would temporarily be discontinued in 2008, for the bigger, badder 11666 Deepsea Sea-Dweller, with a larger 44mm case and a Ring-Lock-System allowing it to reach an impressive depth of 3,900m. It would be a completely new watch not restricted by its initial concept and received many advancements that made it an outright more capable, modernized, and luxurious offering.

Among which was the move to ceramic bezels (fully graduated) with gold/platinum markers, solid links, and an overly engineered new clasp with Glidelock and a wetsuit extension. This would be a huge success during the recent large watch trend and would be the ultimate expression of the modern-day capabilities of the brand.

Rolex returned to a 40mm Sea-Dweller in 2014, which was well received as the “Sleeper Submariner” due to its similar yet thicker specifications to a regular then-current production Submariner.

To retain its hardcore character, it featured a fully graduated bezel and a matte black dial. This model was replaced by the current 126600, a new 43mm variant with a return to the single-red text of the old.

The Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea Sea-Dweller have proven to be Rolex’s flex of its innovation and pursuits to the deep, highlighting the extended capabilities of its original dive watch concepts that is the Submariner and the oyster case. The extended offering has been welcomed by dive watch enthusiasts that crave hardcore specifications or simply for those who have a taste for more novelty compared to the refined and elegant Submariner.

Rolex Submariner vs Sea-Dweller: Which One Should You Choose?

Model Options

Today, the Rolex diver lineup consists of 5 subcategories, divided by the Submariner No Date, Submariner Date, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea Sea-Dweller, and Deep Sea Challenge. The Submariner No Date, from its inception till today, is a watch that is considered to be available for purists. Only offered in black and only in steel, it maintains its tool legacy of not being tampered with.

The Submariner Date is a variant that has seen Rolex experiment with different dial/bezel colors and case materials over many years to form a very essential yet proven collection. In steel, the watch is offered in two variants, a black dial with a black bezel or a black dial with a green bezel, a color previously used to commemorate its anniversary models.

Two-tone “steel and 18k yellow gold” models have a familiar choice of black dial and bezel or a sunburst blue dial with blue bezel, and full 18k yellow gold models also have the same dial and bezel offerings. The 18k white gold variant, arguably the most exclusive model in the dive watch collection, now features a black dial and a blue bezel.

The Sea-Dweller, now offered in 43mm, is available with a black dial and bezel with a vintage-inspired red line of text on the dial for the steel model. It also comes in two-tone with a black dial and black bezel.

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 44mm, offered only in steel, is available in two variants, the first being a black dial with black bezel, and the second featuring a deep blue to black gradient dial with Kawasaki green text accompanied with a black bezel, made to commemorate James Cameron’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

The Deepsea Challenge 50mm, Rolex’s newest halo model diver, is only available with a black bezel and matte black dial to match its hardcore modern-era capabilities. It also features a case and bracelet entirely made of titanium, a first from Rolex.

Build Quality

Supreme build quality is synonymous with Rolex; the concept of the sports watch has journeyed great lengths thanks to the unmatched ethos of the brand to evolve rather than revolve. The “Rolex way” is continuously looking forward to using the best manufacturing and machining techniques available, never compromising on reliable watchmaking.

In the modern day, where watches have become a status symbol rather than simply tools, its collection boasts the perfect marriage of luxury and functionality. Virtually indestructible, better, and more capable than ever before.

Rolex’s dive watch collection shares continuous refinements with its entire collection. We now see the usage of only proprietary metals, solid link tapering bracelets, industry-leading clasps, gold indexes and hands, ceramic bezels with gold or platinum-filled markings, modernized calibers, and the finest tolerances in manufacturing, making Rolex the world’s leading sports watch maker.

When comparing the Submariner range to the Sea-Dweller, essentially one being the hardcore variant of the other, they share the same DNA. Therefore, there is no compromise on build quality to be made when choosing either model.

Movements

Rolex steadily updates all calibers across its entire range. Its dive watch models currently use the 3230 and 3235 calibers, which are identical besides a date complication. You still get ± 2 seconds a day of precision with a Parachrom hairspring and the Superlative Chronometer specification.

What’s new is Rolex’s proprietary Chronergy escapement, allowing for more efficient and reliable precision in between service intervals, and a 70-hour power reserve, a lot more than the 48-hour previous generation calibers.

Price & Availability

The most entry-level professional dive watch from Rolex, the 124060LN Submariner “No-date”, begins at a retail price of $9,100 and has a market value of $12,100. The same 30 percent premium can be found with the 126610LN Submariner “Date” (retail $10,250, market 13,750).

The most popular model, the 126610LV Submariner “Starbucks”, has a retail price of $10,800, and a market price of $16,700, making it the model with the highest premium of 55% above its retail price.

With the market in preference of steel models, the addition of gold amounts to fewer premiums in pricing with the combination Submariners. The 126613LB retails at $15,600, with a market value of $17,600, while the less black version, the 126613LN, retails at $15,600, with a market value of $16,350.

The Sea-Dweller models fetch fewer market premiums than the Submariners; however, even with the more excessive/pricier models in the lineup, they still prove to be very popular amongst collectors. The Sea-Dweller 126600, retailing at $13,250, currently fetches a nearly identical market price, while its less popular combination counterpart, the 126603, retails at $18,000 and has a discounted market price of $16,600.

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660-0004 black dial retails at $14,200 and has a market price of $15,300, while its special dial variant, the 136660-0003 D-Blue, retails at $14,500 and has a market value of $17,400. The newly released Deepsea Challenge, even with its high retail price of $26,000, and highly niche target market of large watch collectors, fetches a premium market price of $32,000.

Rolex’s sport model collection has been limited to long waitlists in recent years for almost every model. The length of the waitlist and your chances of getting a desired model at retail will reflect on its market value, which also reflects its popularity in the market. This makes buying relationships with authorized dealers vital in hopes of escaping the premiums in the marketplace.

Value Retention & Investment

We have come to a point where we can almost assume that all watches discussed in this segment will be able to retain their value in the short and long term, even when the market has passed a recession as it is now, Rolex’s premium value retention is strong and in high percentages. This is due to the huge disparity in ratios in production to demand. This comes as a result of the wider knowledge available to consumers, consumers that brands like Rolex cannot satisfy over the next decade.

The Submariner’s popularity, hype, and versatility make it an easy winner in terms of investment potential compared to the Sea-Dweller. However, the novelty of the Sea-Dwellers, and the breath of playfulness and experimentation that Rolex allows for them, make the models a great investment over the long term.

Notable Submariner & Sea-Dweller Models

Rolex has forged a formidable dive watch collection with a diverse range of proprietary metals, specifications, complications, and capabilities, diving over 10 times deeper than the other. Let’s dive into some of them.

Rolex Submariner No Date 124060LN

The 124060 Submariner, known as the “No-date”, is the purest available iteration of the range, available only in 904L Steel, for the first time 41mm in diameter, returning to the more elegant tapered lugs compared to the maxi case of its predecessor, attached to an industry-leading solid link Oyster bracelet with a lug width of 21mm tapering to 19mm at the dual safety clasp that has Glidelock with 20mm of adjustment.

Due to its lack of a date window at 3 o’clock, the 124060 is loved for its symmetrical clean dial layout; it only comes with a gloss black dial paired with a black Cerachrom bezel. Its dial indexes and hands feature full Chromalight and are made of 18k white gold; its bezel features markings that are filled with platinum and has a lume pip at 12 o’clock.

Exclusive to this model is the no-date 3230 movement, which was new in its 2020 release, giving it 70 hours of power reserve and more efficiency. This model is the foundation of every other Submariner and is an essential model to Rolex and anyone’s collection. (Retail price $9,100)

Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The Submariner 126610LN Date offers the same formula as the No-date with the added versatility of a date window. Still remains is the 41mm case with the more elegant tapered lugs, made in Rolex’s proprietary 904L steel, attached to a solid link Oyster bracelet that starts at 21mm and tapers down to 19mm at the clasp that is a dual safety with Glidelock.

Also maintained is its tool watch aesthetic with full brushing and only features polishing at the side of the case and bracelet, the crown, and the bezel edges.

This LN reference comes with a black dial that features a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by the Cyclops on the sapphire on the sapphire crystal, a key feature to nearly all Date Rolexes. It is paired with a black Cerachrom bezel with platinum markings to make for one of the most recognizable sport watch layouts to date.

As of 2020, all Submariners received a refresh, and all date models received a movement update with the 3235. Thickness remains the same at 12.5mm as the no date; its elegant implementation of specifications makes it the more practical desk diving option in comparison to the purist no date; this is also the gateway drug to other Date Submariner variations. (Retail price $10,250)

Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” 126610LV

The Rolex Submariner 126610LV is the enthusiast hit in the collection. “LV” in its reference, standing for “Lunette Verte”, which means “green bezel” in French, was first used on a Submariner reference with the “50th Anniversary Submariner Kermit”. The tradition of Rolex’s and its fans’ favorite color, “green”, has since been maintained and upgraded nearly every decade.

The 126610LV, nicknamed the “Starbucks”, is now the grandson of the original Kermit and ditches the sunburst gold-green dial of the “Hulk” for a gloss black dial pulling off a more restrained look reminiscent of the original “Kermit”.

Case specifications of 41mm in 904L steel with the new tapered lugs, attached to a 21mm-19mm tapering dive-ready bracelet, with a full Chromalite lume dial and a Cerachrom bezel, and a 3235 movement to make it identical to its “LN” brother if not for its green bezel that has been kept forward from its predecessor.

The choice of going back to black with the dial and the return to elegant proportions have made the “LV” reference a less flashy and more elegant alternative to its very popular sunburst Maxi-case predecessor, the “Hulk”. (Retail price $10,800)

Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” 126613LB

The Rolex Submariner 126613LB “Bluesy” is another model in the dive watch lineup that has the usage of a very sought-after color, blue, with the dial receiving a full sunburst treatment in bright blue and a matching Cerachrom bezel.

The “excuse” for the model to receive a daring color is its main highlight, its combination of materials, 904L Steel, and Yellow-Rolesor (Rolex’s own proprietary metals). In this case, the model is fundamentally steel, with a “solid yellow gold” bezel, bracelet center link, insert on the clasp, hands, indexes, and bezel markings.

It is identical in technical and sizing specifications to the 41mm by 12.5mm Date Submariner. Therefore, it makes for a more premium variation of the standard Steel Submariner, with the flash of gold, without the inconveniences of the excess weight and fragility of its full gold variation, which has a price tag of nearly triple this model.

The “Bluesy” has been an essential model in the collection since 1984 and was the pioneer of the combination-gold watch craze during the 80s. We are returning to those times with gold variations becoming popular again. (Retail price $15,600)

Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller and brings forth the return of the “Single-red line Sea-Dweller text” on the dial, reminiscent of the original 1957 prototypes.

Controversial about this model is the usage of a 43mm case (with a black dial and a larger fully graduated Cerachrom bezel) instead of the Submariner matching diameter of its predecessors that was loved by its die-hard fans as “Sleeper Submariners”.

It is the first Sea-Dweller to feature a Cyclops for its date window; this is simply Rolex being “Rolex”, always innovating, having found a new way for the Cyclops to withstand its 1,220m dive watch capabilities.

This model comes standard with a helium escape valve and is the entry point in the collection for saturation divers. Its usage of a larger in diameter 43mm 904L Steel case makes it a very legible and usable tool watch, especially underwater. It also allows the watch to disperse its 15mm thickness better without looking too chunky.

Also, an upgrade is a 22mm wide Oyster bracelet that tapers to 19mm at the Glidelock clasp, making for a better wearing experience. Due to the wider acceptance of gold watches, Rolex offers the Sea-Dweller 43 in a combination variant too, featuring a full black dial and matching bezel. (Retail price $13,250)

Rolex Deepsea 136660

Rolex first introduced the “Deepsea” nameplate back in 2008, an era where larger-sized watches were trending, allowing the brand to fit a monster of a timepiece in its dive-watch lineup, that was the 44mm Deepsea 116660.

The Deepsea was also a flex on how far the brand was willing and capable of innovating on its original dive watch concept to release a model with a stupendous depth rating of 3,900m, thanks to its Ring-Lock-System, and a larger case.

44mm in diameter and 17.7mm thick, what is most impressive about the Deepsea is the elegant and highly technical feature-packed design that allows itself to be harmonious in proportions, design, and luxury, with its far-less capable and more versatile siblings; therefore allowing it to still be a wearable watch for an average sized wrist.

The Deepsea is now in its third iteration with the 136660 reference. The 126660 updated model in 2018 featured a shorter lug-to-lug measurement, wider bracelet, and thinner lugs, allowing for better proportions and a better fit on the wrist; it also featured an updated movement with the 3235.

The 136660, in 2022, had minor adjustments made to the height of the bezel, a “substantial 8% increase” in the size of the date window, and the lack of a flip lock extension. This model comes with a black dial paired with a fully graduated black Cerachrom bezel and is offered with a special D-Blue dial to commemorate James Cameron’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana trench. (Retail Price $14,200)

Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067

Rolex’s relentless pursuit to push the envelope within its dive watch segment finally yielded a new production model in 2022, the Deepsea Challenge, with an unworldly 11,000m of water resistance, made to conquer the deepest point known to man.

To achieve such a feat, the new Deepsea Challenge would essentially be a (no-date) bloated version of the now regular Deepsea, using the Ring-Lock-System, with a 50mm diameter case and 23mm of thickness (with 9mm crystal) to endure the elements. To underwhelm its heft and match its capabilities, this is the first model to be made available in “lighter” full titanium (RLX-Titanium), featuring complete brushing and a return to chamfered lugs of old.

While its large dimensions and niche capabilities will appeal to a smaller target audience, the Deepsea Challenge ensures that Rolex has an offering to match its modern-day capabilities. It is an exercise in tradition from the best dive watchmaker in history to push its limits. This feature-packed diver is for those who seek luxury in novelty. (Retail price $26,000)

Conclusion

The Submariner and the Sea-Dweller were never meant to be pitted against each other; the Sea-Dweller models are merely an extension of a winning formula that is the iconic Submariner. The Submariner has always set the golden standards in form, function, and refinement for all dive watches to follow.

Due to this mass appeal, the Submariner can seem boring to the seasoned collector. Therefore the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea models have an identity and history of their own to appeal to their own niche.

The Submariner is a versatile, elegant, and popular choice for the desk diver. The Sea-Dweller range boasts more serious specifications for the saturation diver or for those who simply appreciate the variation, novelty, and fun injected into the lineup.

15 BEST Hamilton Dive Watches (For the Aquatic Adventurers!)

Posted on June 2, 2023July 7, 2023 by Huzeifa Jafferjee

Since its inception, the practice of timekeeping has vastly evolved and grown in diversity relative to our perception of how we prefer to tell time. Innovation, storytelling, and originality are facets of the watchmaking industry that have been glorified and celebrated by us watch enthusiasts as we embrace our journey of collecting the timepieces worthy of our attention.

The dive watch, for its robust characteristics, legibility, and versatility, has become the most popular segment within the watch industry. Hamilton, as a result of its long heritage, watchmaking know-how, strong expertise, and value-for-money pricing, has a formidable and novel collection to dive into.

About Hamilton Watches

Hamilton’s journey in watchmaking has seen it go from strength to strength with changing times. Its roots are of an American brand that built a reputation as a tool watchmaker, at the forefront of technology with quartz, electric, and digital watches, with its own distinctive design language and cultural influences from its long existence away from Switzerland.

Through this, the brand was able to build a strong relationship with cinema and celebrity culture during the early era of filmmaking. Now in the modern age, Hamilton comes with a Swiss label, owned by a powerhouse that is the Swatch Group, with a back catalog of ETA Calibers to support its broad collection, allowing the brand to offer a 2-year international warranty.

Its storytelling and successful branding on the silver screen are still in tradition for the watchmaker as it surpasses 90 years of participation.

The collections Hamilton has on offer today are derived from its original history and commitment to offer value for money, purpose-driven timekeeping instruments. Among its tool watch offerings is the Khaki Navy collection, making available automatic or quartz calibers and many model variations for the comprehensive needs of a professional, leisure, or desk diver.

Brief History of Hamilton

Hamilton was established in 1892 as an American watchmaking brand. It built its early reputation through its successful involvement in the booming railroad industry. In 1919 Hamilton became the trusted supplier of timekeeping instruments to the U.S Airmail Service and has since been trusted for its accuracy in flight, with a dedicated collection to suit the needs of aviators.

Hamilton saw its involvement as a pocket watch supplier to the U.S. Military during World War I, following which it halted its commercial production to support the high volume needs of World War II. This historic venture has made Hamilton renowned for their field watches, even today.

Dive Watch History

Hamilton, as an early watchmaker before waterproofing technology was the norm, pushing the envelope with the introduction of its BUSHIPS models during World War II. These saw the use of a canteen-styled screw-down crown, an early method of water protection that the Navy saw interest in using for military application.

In 1951, Hamilton introduced a commercial variant of this model named the Frogman that would be featured prominently in the 1951 movie ‘The Frogmen’ – a true story about the operations of U.S Navy Underwater Demolition Teams, known as Frogmen, during World War II. It was the first movie to feature the unseen challenges and novelty of scuba diving, creating a huge buzz for the underwater experience and the recreational diving trend that would follow during peaceful times.

The Best Hamilton Dive Watches

Now, let’s have a look at our list of the 15 best Hamilton dive watches.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Auto (ref. H77825330)

Proudly inspired by Hamilton’s original dive watch history, Hamilton continues its lineage with its most recent iteration of the Khaki Navy Frogman Auto 46mm. Just like the first canteen-crown models, the current model shares similar inspiration in aesthetics, form, and function with a detachable Panerai-esque crown protector for its screw-in crown, giving it a striking yet tool-like purposeful resemblance to a high-pedigree dive watch.

Its case size of 46mm accommodates the needs of a hardcore diver, adding to its legibility and functionality underwater. With a thickness of 13.58mm attached to a wave pattern tactical rubber strap, it makes for a relatively versatile watch to wear. Yet able to withstand a depth of 300m underwater comfortably on the wrist.

Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal, you will discover a matte sandblasted no-date black dial with lume-filled baton indexes, a lumed 12-hour numeral, and highly legible lume-filled hands with contrasting orange hints on the minute and second hands. Surrounding the dial is a steel dive bezel with a black insert, contrasting steel numerals and markings, and a lume pip at 12 o’clock.

Equipped with an H-10 movement and 80-hour power reserve at a price of $1,195, the Khaki Navy Frogman Auto 46mm stays true to its ethos of being Hamilton’s most capable dive watch on offer, affordably priced for its wearers to put it to the ultimate test, just like in the old days.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Blue Dial (ref. H82345141)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto 40mm Blue dial is one of Hamilton’s more versatile offerings within its dive watch collection. It comes in a wearable 40mm case with 12.95mm in thickness, allowing it to fit under a dress cuff when necessary, and has 100m of water resistance.

With a sporty case profile (including crown guards) attached to a bracelet, it adopts the proven, loved, and most copied dive watch aesthetic made popular by models like the Submariner. This model finds a cohesive and purposeful balance in finishings, punching far above its price class.

With a full satin-brushed case, polished, signed crown, hefty satin brushed three-link bracelet with polished facets on its center links, and a satin-finished twin trigger deployant clasp with a beveled edge in high polish. It has a polished knurled edge uni-directional dive bezel that is deep, sharp, and easy to grip, with an anodized aluminum insert in blue, with white featuring for the first 15 minutes.

Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal, you will see a clean yet distinctive dial layout, with baton and arrow-shaped lumed indexes, lumed hands, a contrasting red lume pip on the second hand, and a 24-hour scale at the center that is a nod to its military roots.

Also featured is a date window at 4.30, adding to its versatility in daily use. Priced at $795, equipped with the 80-hour power reserve H10 movement, this watch is easily one of the best dive watch offerings under $1,000.

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO (ref. H78505330)

The original Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO was first introduced in 2008; its looks were polarizing and menacing. They were to be Hamilton’s ultimate expression of its Khaki Navy collection with 1,000 meters of water resistance. This watch would see the usage of a full titanium case in black PVD, marrying cues of Hamilton’s Art Deco historic design language with a futuristic interpretation.

For its most recent variant, the BeLOWZERO uses the H10 Movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Its 46mm case with 15.7mm in thickness in lightweight titanium attached to a sloping rubber strap allows for the watch to fit light, snugly, and comfortably on the wrist of whoever is brave enough to rock this beast of a watch.

Its design language pushes the boundaries of a sports diver design with 4 hex screws prominently visible on the case, double stem lugs for ultimate strap protection, and unique crown guards that blend into the profile of the case, which helps balance its heft.

Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a matte black dial, with dark gray contrasting hands and indexes. Legibility here can be a challenge. However, it remains clean and balanced with no date and Breguet-style numerals, and ditching the 12 for a 0 adds to its BeLOWZERO personality.

Many know the BeLOWZERO to be the Martian watch after it was featured in the 2015 movie “The Martian” on the wrist of its main character. Through Hamilton’s long-standing relationship with the movie industry, this watch was chosen by its producers and not by Hamilton themselves.

With the movie timeline based in 2035, this is a testament to the futuristic design language embedded in this watch. Priced at $1,845, this watch comes in at a relatively affordable price point for a high-performing dive watch with movie credibility, offering many novelties for collectors to rejoice in.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Quartz Black Dial (ref. H82201131)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Quartz Black Dial (H82201131) is Hamilton’s most entry-level dive watch offering on a bracelet. Yet, this may be hailed as the most wearable and slender watch in the lineup, owing to its quartz movement with all the benefits of the larger-higher-priced automatic alternatives. Can less really be more?

As with other scuba models, it features a sporty case with crown guards and a matching three-link bracelet. The overall finishings are satin-brushed with hints of high polish, striking a good measure of durability and ruggedness for a daily wear dive watch.

Visible through its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a deep black dial with triangular lumed indexes at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, round lumed indexes, and lumed hands, offering great legibility. Surrounding the dial is a polished knurled edge unidirectional dive bezel with sharp teeth that make it easy to grip and an anodized insert in black with silver contrasting numbers and markings.

With a case diameter of 37mm, a thickness of only 10.77mm, and 100m of water resistance, this makes it one of the very few tool/dive watches on the market with sleek and classical proportions, much like the on-trend Tudor Black Bay 54. Priced at only $595 on a bracelet, it really does less to achieve more.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Titanium (ref. H77805335)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Titanium (H77805335) is another variant within the collection to evolve the concept of the original and historic BUSHIPS Frogman models. Hamilton makes its history proud by giving us a no-compromise, hardcore, and very modern Frogman, with 1000m of water resistance.

46mm in diameter, and 15.95mm in thickness, this is a watch meant to be imposing and sporty on any wrist to be a thorough diving instrument. Yet, its heft is masked by the usage of titanium (exclusive to this model) and a rubber strap, making for a lightweight and comfortable wearing experience.

Sharing its design language with the original Frogman, its case features a ratcheting crown protector, a modern reinterpretation of the canteen-style crown used in the old days.

High legibility is also a must for the hardcore frogman, and under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal, you will discover a bare metal black sunburst dial with a mix of triangular lume indexes at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, a 12-hour lumed index, baton lumed indexes to make up the rest of the hours, and lumed hands with hints of red to match the bezel.

Also visible is a date window at 4.30. Surrounding the dial is a dive bezel with notches for easy gripping underwater, with an anodized red bezel insert consisting of contrasting silver markings and a lume pip at zero. Equipped with the H10 movement and 80-hour power reserve, priced at $1,445, this is a true value-for-money modern hyper-diving instrument with a historic lineage.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Sub Auto (ref. H78615135)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Sub Auto (H78615135) stands out as an integrated bracelet dive watch design that takes inspiration from one of its most iconic and historic models, the 1928 Piping Rock – a model presented to the New York Yankees in celebration of their World Series win in 1928.

Rated with 300m water resistance, it has a 42mm diameter and 13.5mm thick tonneau-shaped case with no crown guards that integrate beautifully into an ingenious H-link bracelet. The watch is fully satin-brushed-finished, including its unidirectional dive bezel featuring black contrasts and a lume pip at zero, giving it a rugged vibe.

Under the anti-reflective sapphire is a unique dial to discover in gloss black, with a carbon fiber weave pattern at the center, lumed Breguet numerals, lumed batons at 3 and 6 o’clock, and a lumed 0 numeral to indicate the 12th hour.

The watch comes equipped with a caliber 2824-2 movement offering a 48-hour power reserve and a date function visible at 6 o’clock. This model is now discontinued and was originally priced at approximately $1,150. This Avantgarde dive watch proves that Hamilton can do dive watches differently and not follow the norm.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Syroco Special Edition (ref. H82385340)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Syroco Special Edition (H82385340) was created to honor Hamilton’s partnership with Syroco. The core of the Syroco project is to create a cutting-edge wind-powered speed craft intending to surpass the sailing speed record while learning about and developing a future in carbon-free maritime transportation.

The Khaki Navy Scuba Auto stands out as the most versatile offering within Hamilton’s dive watch collection, this makes it the ideal choice to induce a funky choice of colors and design language as a highlight of the project.

It features a 40mm fully satin-brushed case with crown guards, a polished, signed crown, and a thickness of 12.95mm (making it waterproof to 100m), attached to a bright blue rubber strap. Under its anti-reflective-sapphire-crystal is a bright blue dial with a sector-like motif to symbolize the project’s target speed of 150 km/h.

The dial also features minute/seconds graduations and a second hand in contrasting high visibility orange, lume-filled hour indexes with triangular markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, and baton-filled lume indexes for the rest of the hours to make for a legible dial configuration.

Surrounding the dial is a polished knurled edge dive bezel with an anodized blue insert to match the dial and strap, with contrasting silver markings.

Priced at $795 (housing an H10 movement with 80-hour power reserve) with an association to speed and the choice of daring colors to suit the nautical theme, makes it one of the best summer-ready dive watches under $1,000.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Auto Chrono (ref. H37616331)

Hamilton is able to express its modern design language with the inclusion of the Jazzmaster collection. The Jazzmaster Seaview Auto Chrono H37616331 expands on this dynamic by marrying the contemporary chronograph with the functionality of a divers watch.

As a 44mm diving chronograph on an integrated rubber strap, it is an imposing sporty yet high-end-looking watch on the wrist. It sports a unique case shape with protruding beveled lugs and teardrop-shaped chronograph pushers, handsomely combining satin-brushed finishing with polished bevels. Its knurled edge dive bezel is in full steel, with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces and compass-inspired indications.

Under its sapphire crystal, the watch is made legible through high polish contrasting markers on its sunburst black dial. It is luxuriously detailed with the usage of a silver carbon fiber pattern on its second and minute chronograph sub-dials. At the same time, another black carbon fiber pattern is at the center of the dial to create a sector dial look.

Under its skin is a movement based on the legendary Valjoux-7750. Currently priced at $2,045, this is a feature-packed ultra-luxury-look-sports-dive-watch with the most iconic and proven automatic chronograph movement, making it a very novel dive watch offering.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Auto Black (ref. H77845330)

Just like the other Khaki Navy Frogman Auto 46mm mentioned earlier in this article, this model is identical and shares the same inspiration from the original BUSHIPS/Frogman models, with a modern case, movement, and newer interpretation of the canteen-style crown protector.

The unique aspect of this Khaki Navy Frogman Auto (H77845330) is that it’s fully blacked out in DLC. With a case size of 46mm and a thickness of 13.58mm, attached to a wave pattern tactical rubber strap, it makes for a wearable timepiece.

Its sporty modern case, rugged dive bezel, and detachable Panerai-esque crown protector give the watch its military aesthetic. Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal, it sports a sandblasted black dial consisting of a 12 o’clock marker and baton indexes layout familiar to most serious dive watches for ultimate legibility.

Its hands and indexes feature black lume and can create an optical illusion to the eye by looking skeletonized. The only contrasting element on this watch is the usage of orange for the minute hand and a lume triangle on the second hand.

With 300m of water resistance, equipped with the H10 movement giving it an 80-hour power reserve, Hamilton proudly dubs this their most capable dive watch. With the all-black treatment, it’s a mean-looking dive watch offering, with a credible history, that can be had at $1,295.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Sub Auto Chrono (ref. H78716333)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Sub Auto Chrono (H78716333) is a tonneau-shaped chrono-diver inspired by the design of iconic and historic models like the 1928 Piping Rock. Its chronograph functionality is thanks to the ETA-owned, legendary Valjoux 7750 base and sports the 3-subdial layout of the 7753 with a date window at 4.30.

This is yet another imposing chronograph from the brand, with a case size of 43mm and a thickness of 16.5mm. Thanks to its tonneau-shaped case and integrated rubber strap, it is clearly a watch that stands out amongst the straight-lug sport dive watch designs common to many brands.

Its main highlight as a diving chronograph is its use of Rolex-Daytona-esque screw-in chronograph pushers, allowing for 300m of water resistance. The watch is finished entirely in satin brushing, therefore making it more impervious to scratches and giving it a tool-like aesthetic. Its dive bezel insert is also in full satin-brushed steel with contrasting black markers and a black surround with teeth for easy gripping underwater.

Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a racing-styled black dial with a carbon fiber pattern at the center. It uses lumed Breguet style numerals, with a 0 in place of a 12 index, and lumed hour, minute, and second hands.

There is a slight tinge of red used on the second chronograph hand and around the lume on the edge of its second hand, uplifting its racing-styled dial ever so slightly. This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of approximately $2,250.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Quartz White Dial (ref. H82221110)

The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Quartz (H82221110) takes on Hamilton’s most versatile and contemporary dive watch layout and adds a bit of femininity by replacing its anodized dive bezel insert with an elegant white ceramic with a matching white dial.

At 37mm in diameter, 10.77mm in thickness, and with a water resistance of 100m, this is a true dive watch from Hamilton that would appeal to the unisex buyer. Its sports-dive case adopts the popular layout with crown guards and full satin-brushed finishing.

It is mated to a substantial, three-link, satin brushed bracelet, with polished facets on its center links, utilizing a twin trigger satin brushed deployant clasp with a polished beveled edge. Its white dial features triangular lumed markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and round lumed plots for the rest of the dial.

This gives it a tool watch layout, and with no date, it appears clean and easy to read. At the center of the dial is the inclusion of a 24-hour scale, a nod to Hamilton’s military background. Priced at $675, and thanks to its quartz movement, this is an elegant and capable dive watch offering delicate dimensions best suited to delicate wrists.

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Tenet Limited Edition (ref. H78505331)

The Hamilton Khaki BeLOWZERO sees subtle customization to become an official Tenet Limited Edition (H7505331), inspired by the plot of the sci-fi action film Tenet (2020), written and directed by Christopher Nolan, a leading filmmaker of the 21st century. The watch comes in two colorways, blue or red, which contain clues to the film’s narrative.

The BeLOWZERO can be described as a futuristic industrial diver. As a testament to this, it has seen itself involved in the script of two blockbuster films set in the future, also set in the harshest of environments. It has a 46mm cushion-shaped case, with hexagonal screws on all four corners of its case to give it a rugged aesthetic.

It is 15.7mm thick but can be forgiven for its incredible 1,000m of water resistance. The heft is masked by its DLC titanium case construction, making for a wearable watch on its contouring rubber strap protected by double-stamped lugs.

The case also features unique crown guards that blend into the case, as well as a robust dive bezel. Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a matte black dial with large Breguet style numerals in black lume, with the 12 numeral replaced for a 0.

What is unique about this Limited Edition watch is the customization of its second hand, with a tip in either blue or red. As a result, it also comes with a matching blue or red spherical crystal-like display case designed by Nathan Crowley, the production designer of Tenet. Each colorway was limited to 888 pieces at a retail price of $2,095.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Quartz Chronograph (ref. H37512131)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Quartz Chronograph (H37512131) is the dressiest model within this list of dive watches. Its 100m water resistance is masked by an elegant high polish design that is suitable for the gala and need not be taken off at the late-night pool party.

With a case size of 44mm and a thickness of 12.6mm, it marries its large size with slim proportions thanks to its quartz caliber. Its sports-inspired case is made elegant with protruding large polished beveled lugs, polished teardrop-shaped chronograph pushers, and a polished, signed crown.

It is attached to a three-link Oyster-style bracelet, with satin brushed center links and high polished outer links. Under its sapphire crystal is a 3-register chronograph black dial with diamond-shaped indexes and a rounded date window at 4.30. Adding to its dive watch functionality, it sports full lume on its indexes and hands, with a polished coin edge black insert dive bezel.

Adding to the charm and allure of this timepiece, in the 2020 movie Tenet, John David Washington is seen sporting the watch on his wrist throughout the film. His on-screen personality and elegant style were a great match and a testament to its versatile design. This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of approximately $1,100, and it can be found on the secondary market at a discount, making it great value for money.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Green Dial (ref. H82375161)

The Khaki Navy Scuba Auto (H82375161) once again uses Hamilton’s most versatile and popular dive watch configuration and gives it the hottest colorway of this decade, featuring a khaki green dial and dive bezel.

Equipped with a 40mm case, 12.95mm of thickness, on a solid three-link steel bracelet, this watch meets the gold standards of the modern wearable dive watch. Finished like a high-end tool watch, it has a full satin-brushed crown guard equipped case with a polished signed crown attached to a satin-brushed bracelet with polished bevels on its center links and a satin-brushed clasp with crisp polished beveling.

Reminiscent of models in a much higher price category. It features an easy-to-grip polished knurled edge dive bezel, with a khaki green insert consisting of black for the first 15-minute indications. Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a dial resembling the expected highly legible dive watch format, with large triangular markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock.

There’s a date window at 4.30 for added practicality. Priced at $795, with an 80-hour power reserve, this is an exquisite green diver execution from a brand with a history in tool watches.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Auto 42mm (ref. H77605135)

For those who want more, we have a “more wearable” Frogman, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman Auto 42mm (H77605135). This watch has legitimate dive watch history, which can be seen by the ratcheting crown guard protector, an innovation of Hamilton’s original BUSHIPS Frogman models.

This crown guard gives the wearable watch something tactical and functional under a hardcore diving situation or when diving under a desk. That being said, its wearable 42mm sports dive case attached to an Oyster-style three-link bracelet with polished center links makes it fantastically versatile for daily use.

This model comes equipped with a notched dive bezel with a black insert, contrasting numerals, and a lume pip at 12 for easy usability and readability. Under its anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a black sunburst dial with a lumed 12 index, triangular lumed indexes at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, lumed rectangular indexes for the rest of the numerals, and lumed hands with a pip of red on the second hand, making for a highly legible and recognizable dial.

For added functionality, there is a date window at 4.30. Equipped with the 80-hour power reserve H10 movement and priced at $1,095, this would make the perfect choice for a one-watch collection.

Conclusion

Today, Hamilton is in a great position to offer a wide selection of divers and has built a formidable dive watch collection to solidify its interest in providing the best value-for-money luxury diver watch. With reliable movement technology from ETA, being a mutual brand owned by the Swatch Group, Hamilton is a force amongst equally priced watch brands.

It has transformed its success to push the envelope in modern innovation and continues to evolve its historic models, giving the brand a lot of attention within the dive watch space. Hamilton’s long relationship with on-screen appearances adds a depth of relatability and a premium identity to the brand in the modern age.

15 BEST Valjoux 7750 Watches (Highly Accurate & Reliable!)

Posted on April 21, 2023June 30, 2023 by Huzeifa Jafferjee

The venerable and humble Valjoux 7750 is the widespread beating heart of many self-winding-chronograph watches. As a result of groundbreaking engineering, it has proven to be an immortal movement that is easy to service, reliable, accurate, universally sized, heavily modifiable, and even cloned by movement manufacturer Sellita to make the SW-500 (to meet the demand for non-ETA exclusive watchmakers).

The 7750 is the world’s most popular self-winding-chronograph movement, still very relevant today under the arm of ETA; the Valjoux 7750 has been the horological lifeblood of many brands since before and after the Quartz crisis – thus enabling a formidable comeback from the mechanical watch industry due to its allure as an affordable well-designed platform that allowed for many complications and levels of finishing to be offered by its adopters. We are excited to discuss 15 of the best Valjoux 7750 watches that you can get your hands on today.

About The Valjoux 7750

The race from many tycoons in the watch industry to invent the first self-winding chronograph made 1969 a revolutionary year for watchmaking. The Calibre-11 was the first to achieve this status, a manifestation of a collaboration between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and chronograph specialist Dépraz & Co., followed by Seiko with the 6139 and Zenith with the over-engineered and rather excellent El Primero; all simultaneous releases within the year.

The age of the self-winding chronograph had begun, and Valjoux took notice, seeking to offer such technology in vast numbers. The manual-wind Valjoux 7733 was the foundation; a young Edmon Capt was tasked with turning it into a self-winding chronograph.

With a tight development timeline, the Valjoux 7750 would be the first movement to have its workings simulated on a computer and would go on sale in 1973 amidst the Quartz crisis. It proved popular, selling in 6-figure numbers but would soon be impacted by rapidly dying sales due to the Quartz and digital watch market craze – at its peak in 1975.

Similar to the fate of the El Primero, Valjoux’s senior management ordered the destruction of machinery, drawings, and tooling for the 7750 – an order which Edmon Capt chose to disobey and was thereby able to find means of protecting his creation for a brighter, longer future.

Following Valjoux’s consolidation by ETA in the 80s, mechanical watches finally saw a revival of interest. This allowed for the return of the 7750, which required little to no reworking since its inception. Affordable, serviceable, reliable, universally sized, and modifiable, it became the popular choice for many brands in recovery, dawning on a renaissance of mechanical watchmaking.

The Valjoux 7750 movement architecture utilized levers and an oblong-shaped cam which was easier to mass-manufacture than its column wheel-operated cousins. It also used a unidirectional winding rotor that allowed for faster winding and no dead zone in rotor movement, with the winding system always engaged.

Its notorious quirk was its rotor wobble. Here we have an industrial movement at 7.9mm thick, with a self-winding chronograph, hacking seconds, compatible with a date and day wheel, available and affordable for many watch manufacturers to adopt rather than an engineer on their own at great expense.

/ETA also offered more complicated versions of the 7750, like the 7751, which had a full calendar and moon-phase display, and a 7753 with the sub-dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than a vertical layout.

Due to its modifying potential, some movement specialists chose to incorporate a column wheel mechanism, which proved less expensive than acquiring a movement developed to incorporate one. IWC also took a liking to the movement, and Kurt Klaus used it as a base for what would become the legendary Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in 1985.

Its success with IWC didn’t end, as Richard Habring followed suit by creating a split-seconds chronograph out of the 7750 that would eventually be turned into the 125th anniversary Destriero Scafusia. This grand complication combined a split-seconds-chronograph, flying tourbillion, and minute repeater.

ETA also went on to devise its own version of a column wheel controlled 7550, which was the Longines Caliber-L688, which Omega later used as its base for the Co-Axial Caliber-3300. All of this is a testament to the 7750’s wide and favored adoption to date.

The Best Valjoux 7750 Watches

Tissot PRX Chronograph (ref. T137.427.11.041.00) (Valjoux A05.H31, based on the Valjoux 7753)

Under the current premise that the watch world is notoriously hyped for integrated bracelet luxury sports watches, Tissot has been widely recognized for positioning its PRX lineup as a budget-friendly alternative. Its cohesive case and bracelet design, adding to that a lineage dating back to the original era in the 70s, has made the PRX the prime choice for watch enthusiasts wanting to enjoy high horology levels of design.

In 2022, Tissot was able to offer the PRX Chronograph with the proven Valjoux 7753 seen through its display caseback, with a 60hr power reserve, the classic 3, 6, and 9 o’clock chronograph layout, a date between 4 and 5 o’clock, 100m water resistance and a 2-year warranty.

Available in 3 sunburst dial variations blue, white with blue subdials, and white with black subdials and gilt indices/hands. Priced at $1,825 on a quick-release interchangeable steel bracelet.

Sized at 42mm in diameter and 14.5 millimeters thick, with an overall brushed finish and polishing on its case flanks, sloping bezel, pushers, and crown; and the availability of panda-esque Royal Oak Chronograph inspired dial configurations to make this a very stylish and wearable sports watch, in addition to its great value offering.

Omega Speedmaster Date 40 (ref. 3210.50.00) (Omega Caliber 1164, based on the Valjoux 7750)

For those that desire the storied heritage of the greatest journey of mankind, and a budget-friendly smaller Moonwatch, with self-winding, a date complication, and most importantly, 100m of water resistance, look no further than this watch.

The Speedmaster Date 40 is an offering that punches hard above its weight class, housing the Chronometer Certified Caliber 1164 based on the 7750 with a 44hr power reserve. 40mm in diameter and 15.2mm thick, the Speedmaster Date 40 lends a few design elements of the Speedmaster Professional (1861).

These include an identically-finished lyre lug case profile and bracelet design, a tachymeter bezel that comes in black anodized aluminum, and a double-finished black dial with a metallic grain at the center. Alongside these are appliqué indices and the Omega logo, a vertical subdial layout as a result of its 7750 movement architecture, and a frame around the date window.

This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of $3,500. It is half the price of the current Speedmaster Professional and, therefore, an incredible value alternative due to its 7750-based caliber, making it better sized for smaller wrists, with added functionality to boot.

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H (ref. H38429730) (Hamilton H-51 movement based on the ETA/Valjoux caliber 7753)

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H is a modern remaster of the original 1968 model, with promising potential to retain the elegance of its predecessors and none of the drawbacks associated with wearing a vintage piece. As of 2021, the Intra-Matic Chronograph received further refinement, now offered in 40mm with a manual-wind movement allowing for a marginally slimmer case (0.3mm) than its automatic counterpart.

By doing away with the hand-wound movement, this model offers further interaction and feeling for the vintage enthusiast it targets. This also allows it to have a flatter case back and less clearance between the dial and the domed sapphire, leaning onto a much cleaner overall aesthetic.

The Intra-Matic uses the 7753 for a simple classic dual subdial layout with no date. It comes in two vintage-inspired panda-dial variants; a plain black dial with off-white subdials or an off-white dial with black subdials and faux patina lume on its hands and indexes.

With a two-year warranty, 100m water resistance, and a 60hr power reserve, priced at $2,045 on a leather ($2,095 on a Milanese bracelet), this is a truly authentic vintage chronograph experience to be enjoyed at an affordable price point, with modern-day conveniences.

Breitling Navitimer (ref. A2332212/C586) (Breitling B23 movement, based on the Valjoux 7753)

Following the post-war commercial aviation boom, the Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association pressured Brietling to create the Navitimer in 1952, now a monumental model in its lineup. With the help of the then-revolutionary slide rule bezel, the Navitimer became the first flight calculator, calibrated for all necessary flight calculations, such as ground speed, airspeed, drift, rate of climb, and fuel consumption. Not limited to the sky, it could also convert miles to kilometers, Fahrenheit to Celsius, or dollars to euros.

The Navitimer (ref. A2332212/C586) produced between 2003-2011, with a practical 41.8mm diameter and 14.6mm case, used the 7753 as a base for its 42hr COSC-Certified Movement. This model was offered in a deep navy blue, as well as black or white dial variations with the typical 3 subdial layout thanks to the architecture of the 7753, and a date complication between 4 and 5 o’clock.

It was originally priced at $9,000 on a bracelet and is currently up to $6,000 on the secondary market. Its availability is a true testament to the vast takeover of the 7750/7753 base. As the Navitimer in 1969 was one of the first watches to house an automatic chronograph caliber, it needed to come full circle to adopt the Valjoux for the sake of its own survival.

Tissot Heritage 1973 (ref. T124.427.16.051.00) (A05.H31 movement based on the Valjoux 7753)

During the 70s, Tissot featured as a sponsor in F1, with Swiss ambassador and Brabham driver Lorris Kessel. Back then, he wore the Navigator 1973, a watch designed during the golden age of motorsport, when racing drivers needed timing instruments on their wrists.

In 2019, Tissot celebrated its racing history with the revival of the Navigator, releasing the Heritage 1973, a modern interpretation of the original, limited to 1,973 pieces. Following this, they released a second iteration in 2021 as a mainstay in the collection, offered in 3 color variants, those being white, blue, or black.

Aesthetically belonging to the exclusive club of the 70s-inspired vintage racing chronographs, it sports a modern-sized 43mm cushion-shaped case with satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels, mushroom-style pushers, and a perforated leather strap (invented by Tissot in 1975).

The dial is also changed from the original, now with the sub-dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than a vertical layout, and a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, thanks to the layout of the 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback) with a 60hr power reserve.

Carried forward from the original is the panda color dial configuration, with pops of 70s orange, and exclusive to the newest model, a minor touch of bright blue on the 30-minute elapsed counter between 0 and 5. It has a domed sapphire crystal, unlike the acrylic of the original. Priced at $2,175, with a two-year warranty and 100m water resistance, the Heritage-1973 has all the hallmarks of a great vintage racing watch revival.

IWC Pilot Top Gun (ref. IW3891-01) (IWC Caliber 69380, based on The Valjoux 7750)

IWC was an early pioneer in developing timekeeping instruments that catered to the needs of aviators. Its first Pilots Chronographs, often referred to as the ‘Flieger Chronographs’ were launched in 1988, including a self-winding model that housed a caliber based on the 7750. Decades later, still proving to be up to the task.

The Top Gun collection has been an integral part of IWC’s Pilot watch lineup since 2007, flexing its usage of advanced materials and giving them a distinctive tactical look and feel.

To celebrate its close association with naval aviation, in 2019, we saw the release of the IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun IW3891-01, still using a heavily modified column wheel chronograph movement based on the 7750 and still adopting the 3 vertical subdial layouts and a day/date window at 3 o’clock, that the model is famous for.

This model features a 44.5mm diameter black ceramic case on a black textile strap, a matching matte black dial with concentric grooves visible on the subdials, a matte black hour and minute hands, and a black day & date window. It has contrasting white Arabic indices, markings, lume, and chronograph seconds hand, with a pop of red on the running second’s hand.

Attached to the case are brushed steel pushers and a screw-in-crown allowing for 60m of water resistance. Priced at $8,950, this watch is a proven icon with looks ready for any dogfight.

TAG Heuer Carrera (ref. CBK2110.BA0715) (Caliber 16, based on the Valjoux 7750)

The Carrera is easily one of the most iconic racing chronographs to date, with a rich and storied history dating back to the 60s and 70s when Heuer was at the helm of racing timekeeping instruments. Post Quartz crisis, the Carrera was brought back by Tag Heuer in 1996, a mainstay in their collection since 2006, and it adopted the Caliber 16 (42hr power reserve) based on the 7750.

Unlike the original Carrera that featured the first self-winding chronograph movement (Calibre 11), it would now adopt 3 vertical subdials with a date window at 3 o’clock as a result of its movement based on the 7750 (visible through a transparent caseback), with a 42-hour power reserve.

The CBK2110.BA0715 features a matte black dial with polished hands, indexes, a frame around the date window, and an applied Tag Heuer logo. This particular reference had its own time in the spotlight, worn by Kevin Bacon in the movie ‘You Should Have Left (2020)’.

Not owing too much to its racing history, it leans more towards elegance than sportiness, striking a good balance for daily wear with its high finish (41mm) case and bracelet and 100m water resistance. This model is currently discontinued and had an original retail price of $4,600. Secondary market prices can be found up to approximately $4000, depending on the condition.

Longines Master Collection Complete Calendar Chronograph (ref. L2.773.4.78.5) (Caliber L687.2 based on the Valjoux 7751)

The Master Collection, launched in 2005, pays tribute to Longines’ rich heritage in traditional and classical watchmaking. The halo model of the collection, the Complete Calendar Chronograph Moonphase, offers high complication at a value focussed price point.

This is done with the help of a movement based on the 7751(visible through its transparent caseback, with a 48hr power reserve), a multifunctional caliber based on the 7750. Adding complications such as a full moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, a central pointer date hand pointing at the date on the outer periphery of the dial, day of the week and month windows at 12 o’clock, and a 24-hour hand at 9 o’clock.

It features a classic high-polish 40mm case with a rounded bezel and soft lines, overall contributing to a dressier feel and doing well to mask its high complication caliber. It has ‘old world’ looking pushers and a stamped crown. The dial is clean and uncluttered in silver barleycorn, with a stamped Clous de Paris style guilloché on the main level and concentric grooves on the subdials.

It has blued legible hands and vintage-style Arabic numerals printed well enough to look applied. Priced at $3,550 on a brown alligator strap with a luxurious twin trigger deployant clasp. For those seeking a complication dress watch on a budget, Longines is well-calibrated to deliver high sophistication and refinement.

Hublot Big Bang (ref. 301.SX.130.RX) (Caliber HUB4100, based on the Valjoux 7753)

The launch of the Big Bang in 2005 marked the rebirth of Hublot under Jean-Claude Bivers’ leadership. With the 7753-based 42hr power reserve workhorse movement (visible through its transparent caseback), and quite a bit of hype (or incredible marketing), it could compete with the greats from which it took inspiration.

Given the high horology inspiration, and Art of Fusion Concept, the Big Bang appears to have all the necessary hallmarks of a niche high-end timepiece while having a strikingly modern, sporty, and racy design language.

The 301.SX.130.RX has a 44mm case with contrasting satin-brushed and polished surfaces. It sports a sandwich construction with composite inserts at the sides to give an architectural look. Polished finishing continues on the crown and pushers with rubber outboard.

Rubber is also used for the strap, Hublot being the early pioneer of using the sporty material on a luxury sports watch. Its bezel, inspired by the porthole of a submarine, is satin and highly polished with distinctive Hublot H-sectioned screws.

To complete its look, we have a matte black dial with polished appliqué indices and hands (lumed) and a contrasting red chronograph seconds hand, minute/seconds track, and subdial track for the minutes and hours. It retains the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock layout of the 7753 with a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Priced at $12,900 retail, and approximately $8,500 pre-owned, it is a 100m waterproof luxury sports watch that still compares well against its highly-praised cousins who might not share the same specifications, price point, or sporty design.

Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope (ref. 27/4008.02) (J880.2 movement based on the Valjoux 7750)

The German watchmaker, Junghans, is popularly known for its commitment and genuine history with the Bauhaus design language. An artistic ideology that form follows function. Max Bill, a Swiss artist and former student of Bauhaus in Dessau 1927-1929, was tasked by Junghans to create a collection of watches in 1961 of Bauhaus influence, following the great success of its Max Bill kitchen clock.

The Design of the Max Bill Chronoscope carries forward its design language from the 60s as a modern offering, housing a movement based on the 7750 with a 42hr power reserve. Its 40mm almost pebble-shaped steel case is coated in matte anthracite PVD, has short lugs (which makes it very wearable), uses piston-style pushers, and has a thin bezel offering a generous view of its matte white dial.

It ditches the running seconds for just two vertically aligned subdials for symmetry. Grey is used for the minute/seconds track and subdials markings, with black environmentally friendly lumed Arabic numerals that match the font of Max Bill’s original kitchen clock. We also have matte black hands, with the hours and minutes being curved and lumed.

At 3 o’clock are two beveled apertures for the day and date, and for symmetry at 9 o’clock, its name is inscribed on the dial. Another compliment to its dial and case design is the usage of a domed sapphire. Priced at $2095, unhindered by any ornamentation, it is a minimalist, functional, and legible chronograph that stands on its own in the market.

Sinn 103 St Sa (ref. 103.061) (Valjoux 7750)

German tool-watchmaker Sinn is a fan favorite for its profound dedication to making pilots watches. Founder Helmut Sinn himself was a former World War II pilot and used his experience in aviation to manufacture clocks and pilot’s chronographs.

The Sinn 103 Pilots Chronograph carries its design from the golden age of pilot watches in the 60s when the original 103 saw its release. With the dawn of the Quartz Crisis, this humble period would induce harmony among watchmakers, who would share or purchase components from each other.

Hence, this is why the original 103 shares the same case and many components with the original LeCoultre, Brequet, Mathey-Tissot, and Breguet models from the era. The Sinn 103 as we know it today was remastered in 1993, with an automatic chronograph caliber based on the robust 7750 (48 hours power reserve).

The Sinn 103 St Sa has a high polish 41mm case with a thickness of 17.2mm. It does well to mask its thickness with its sloping lugs and rounded display case back. Using the 7750 vertical 3 subdial layout and a day/date window at 3 o’clock, it has a lumed dial in solid black with contrasting white Arabic numerals, markings, and hands (syringe style for the minutes and hours).

Complementing the dial is a domed ‘sapphire crystal’ (unlike on standard 103 models). It has attractive screw-in pushers like those found on a Daytona and a ratcheting anodized black unidirectional diving bezel with a triangular loom pip at 0.

One of the most notable features of this model as a chronograph is its impeccable water resistance of 200m. Priced at approximately $2,700 on a solid end-link bracelet, this is a proven feature-packed, legible, and timeless design built like a tank for the cockpit.

Damasko DC56 Black (Valjoux 7750 Elaboré)

Damasko, formed in 1994, is a relatively young German tool-watch manufacturer with a history of developing high-performance materials and technology for the aviation industry and hardened watchcases for Sinn until 2002.

Catered to innovating in-house with new materials and processes, its main focus is to be affordable while engineering the toughest tool-watches on the market. A testament to its capabilities, its DC56 would go on to being the official watch of German Eurofighter Pilots since 2007.

The DC56 Black is simply put, a blacked out version of the standard model. It has a Black Damest-Coated, Ice-hardened steel case, 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of only 13.8mm; such tight tolerances are difficult to find from a brawn tool-watch housing the tall 7750 caliber (48hr-power-reserve).

Attached to its muscular profiled case are matching black pushers with a crown guard perfectly integrating to SR71Blackits sharp lugs. It has a 7750 layout matte black dial with contrasting white hands, Arabic numerals, date/date display, and generous usage of lume on the hands and numerals, making for impeccable legibility.

To match perfectly with its case and dial, it comes on a tumbled calfskin leather strap with contrasting white stitching. Priced at $2,100, this is a refreshingly new take on a tool watch without history to hold Damasko back from creating this monster of a watch.

Tissot Telemeter 1938 (ref. T142.462.16.032.00) (A05.231 movement based on the Valjoux 7753)

In 2022 Tissot added to its trending heritage collection with the launch of the ‘Telemeter 1938’, a watch that takes inspiration deep from its archives in the late 1930s. It would feature a chronograph complication, with a telemeter scale that can be used to calculate distance based on time, using a movement based on the 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback), giving it a bicompax layout, and a 68hr power reserve.

As an attribute to the large but proven movement, it has a case diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 14mm, making it a wearable yet sporty classic dress watch on an embossed tapering leather strap with a deployment clasp. Its case design features fully polished surfaces, curved lugs, nearly vertical case flanks, a sloping bezel, a signed crown (allowing for 30m water resistance), and oval pushers, enabling easy functionality.

The best aspect of this model is its remastered telemeter dial, offered in two variants; a gloss black with gilt indices/markings/hands or a more legible silver dial with blue, red, and black printed markings/indices and contrasting blued hands. Priced at $1,950, this is a fine novelty from Tissot that combines old-world looks with modern-day functionality.

Oris Artelier Chronograph (ref. 01 676 7603 4054-07 5 22 71FC) (Oris Caliber 676, based on the 7753)

The Artelier collection is where Oris continues to push contemporary design while leaning towards a dressier aesthetic from the brand. The Oris Artelier Chronograph does just that by encompassing daring and elegant design traits while relying on the capable 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback, with a 44hr power reserve) to offer us an affordable yet high-finish complication dress watch.

Among many others that use the Valjoux base, this is also a complicated dress watch with sportier dimensions. It features a 43.5mm high polish case with long lugs and a rounded bezel. Attached to its case are unique mushroom pushers and a large knurled crown (offering 30m water resistance).

Continuing the polished aesthetic is a predominantly shiny guilloche grey dial and subdials (3, 6, and 9 o ‘clock layout), with black contrasts for legibility, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and polished, sharp-looking indices/hands.

Optional is a multilink bracelet (as opposed to calfskin leather), which cohesively compliments the sporty yet elegant design of the watch. This model is now discontinued and was priced at under $3,000 retail.

Hamilton Pan Europ Auto Chrono (ref. H35756755) (Caliber H31, based on the 7753)

The Hamilton Pan Europ has a significant history with relevance to the self-winding chronograph movement. The original housed the iconic first self-winding movement, the Caliber 11, only to follow up nearly half a century later with its re-release, made possible with the usage of a caliber based on the 7753 (with 60 hr power reserve).

As with many heritage remakes using a modern caliber, the Pan Europ Chrono now features a modern-sized case measuring 45mm, with a thickness of 15mm (with 100m water resistance). Maintained is the original aesthetic in the form of its design; its case features a cushion shape in a satin finish with polished bevels accentuating its curves.

Attached to the case are polished pump pushers and a polished, signed crown at 3 o’clock rather than 9. Feature-packed for its time, it features a handy unidirectional turning bezel finished in anodized black. The dial layout is also faithful to the original, with a bicompax layout, and a date window at 6 o’clock to make for good symmetry and legibility.

Available in a choice of black or silver dials, it adopts a high-contrast look, with red subdial and chronograph hands adding a pop of color and a sense of speed. This model is now discontinued, with an original retail price of approximately $1,950. It is a sensibly designed modern throwback with specifications to rival watches nearly twice its price point.

Conclusion

As the movement that democratized the self-winding chronograph for everyday people to afford, the modern watch industry would look very different without the Valjoux 7750 caliber. It has had a significant impact on the appreciation and widespread adoption of mechanical complications through the most difficult times into the current era, which appreciates this pursuit as an art form.

Today the Valjoux 7750 is referred to as the ETA 7750 and has become increasingly exclusive to brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. While it still offers great value and is an important part of the lineage of many iconic models, its dependability has forced other manufacturers to clone the complication for its continued usage. Half a century since its inception, it is still considered an engineering marvel of significant importance to the watch industry.

Most Popular

Watch Reviews

20 Best Mido Watches You Can Buy (Across ALL Categories!)

by Grant McKay

August 22, 2023

Mido is an under-the-radar watch brand that’s worth taking a look at. Mido has been around for over a century,...

Watch Reviews

The 45 Best Pilot Watches (From Affordable To Luxury!)

by Anne Bensons

August 22, 2023

Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus,...

Cartier

15 BEST Cartier Watches For Men in 2023 (ALL Styles!)

by Andras Cseh

August 22, 2023

Enthusiasts always recommend well-known and reliable watchmakers like Omega, Rolex, or Patek Philippe. These are very high-quality watch brands, but...

20 Best Mido Watches You Can Buy (Across ALL Categories!)

by Grant McKay

August 22, 2023

Mido is an under-the-radar watch brand that’s worth taking a look at. Mido has been around for over a century,...

The 45 Best Pilot Watches (From Affordable To Luxury!)

by Anne Bensons

August 22, 2023

Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus,...

15 BEST Cartier Watches For Men in 2023 (ALL Styles!)

by Andras Cseh

August 22, 2023

Enthusiasts always recommend well-known and reliable watchmakers like Omega, Rolex, or Patek Philippe. These are very high-quality watch brands, but...